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Ignition lock removal

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I believe this is for a non-tilt column.

 

Here is the procedure,

 

For starters remove your horn cover, and steering wheel nut. Then put your steering wheel/pulley puller in place and remove the steering wheel.

 

 

Push the black cam lock cover down and shove a screw driver in to hold it down. This is so you can get to the snap ring at the bottom of the steering wheel mount.

 

 

Use a sharp small screw driver to get the snap ring moved into a easy to get to position.

 

 

Once in position, use another screwdriver with a small blade to, gently pry the snap ring up while keeping it from spinning with the second screwdriver. Watch the threads on the steering column they are sharp! Ask me how I know.

 

 

After you get the snap ring out of it's groove pull it off and set it someplace you will not lose it.

 

 

BE CAREFUL HERE!

 

The cover in under pressure. Not a lot but better safe than sorry.

 

Apply steady FIRM pressure to the cam lock cover and remove the screwdriver and slowly release the pressure from the spring below it.

 

 

Now you can remove the cover and see the turn signal cams.

 

 

Remove the center and the spring below it and set them in a safe place as well.

 

 

Remove the screw holding the turn signal arm in place and put the screw and lock place with your other parts.

 

 

Here you can see the three screws that hold the turn signal can in place. Remove these screws and keep them seperate. They are a special thread.

 

 

Remove the Hazard pull knob.

 

 

Disconnect the plug on the lower right side of the steering column. It is right above the brake pedal.

 

 

With these two parts removed you can now pull the cam up and over the steering wheel mount threads.

 

 

Here is the bolt that holds the ignition lock in place. Use a 5/16 socket and remove it.

 

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Firmly grasp the ignition lock...

 

 

And pull to the right.

 

 

Now you have your lock out. What about getting the steering wheel to unlock or starting the Jeep until the replacement parts are procured?

 

Well, me being the impatient one that I am I broke the plastic cover on the column.

 

The rod that controls the steering lock and ingition switch is right there. You can accomplish the next step without busting your column up. It just has to be done from under the dash.

 

Grab the rod and push it forward.

 

 

Here you can see the steering wheel lock engaged (pointed thing at the top of the column)

 

 

And here it is released.

 

 

Reassemble everything in reverse order and you will be able to start and drive your Jeep without a key.

 

This is not suggested but if you are in a bind this will get you out of it rather quickly

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Nice write up, it is also a how to for replacing a broken directional stalk.

 

Does this work on all columns incase I see a nice car I want to take for a "test ride"

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:doh: Wish I had seen this great write-up BEFORE I got into mine , I'm starting teardown #3 ,seems every problem I resolve creates another :dunno:

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Thanks for this. I'm ripping into my tilt column and its all the same...so far.

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First, unless we're not seeing some pictures your lock plate is missing. You'd never be able to compress that spring and get that snap ring off with a screw driver if the lock plate was there. You would most likely either bend the lock plate or break the plastic on the steering column. Here's a picture of a lock plate. The lock pin you're referring to engages into the slots in the lock plate. If the lock plate is missing the steering wheel can't lock.

 

lockplate.jpg

 

 

That rod that goes to the ignition switch has nothing to do with the lock pin. The rod connects to a Rack that ratchets up and down when you turn the key tumbler. You could just as easily put a flat screw driver in the hole where the key tumber was and moved moved it up and down.

 

Also, your turn signal canceling cam looks broken. Is that a piece of solder and a wire someone's rigged up so the horn will work?

 

Mac...

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Dunno, I know the steering wheel was locked and the keys were missing.

 

It is a non point for that XJ anyhow. I never got a title for it and cut it into 100 pieces and took it in for scrap.

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Still, a pretty good write up, but I think most people will still require the spring compressor to get that snap ring off. Don't know why the steering wheel would be locked without the lock plate. :dunno: I think I read somewhere that you can install the lock plate upside down and have a non-locking steering wheel, but I'm skepical about that too.

 

Mac...

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I got mine apart just like it was described here, no compressor and everything is still intact...

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I removed the lock plate without a spring compressor once... you can do it, but it was a pain. I went out and bought the compressor, haven't used it... but it's there for when I do.

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My Bad. The screw driver is the tool for compressing the spring and removing the snap ring. jamminz.gif

 

Mac...

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Awesome, I will have to do this soon. Thanks! What did you use to start the truck? Do they make replacement tumblers? or would I have to find one from a Comanche? Or a Cherokee?

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thanks for those DIY because I'm planning to replace the turn signal switch asap which this diy come handly :) thank you!

 

:cheers:

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just did this the other day,

took about 30 mins,

over 20 mins of that time was on that little clip :fs1:

 

only thing i did different was used a 6" c clamp and held the lock plate down,

because the screw driver was damaging it. :thumbsup:

 

also used the part listed above by $500MJ,

worked like a charm

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Just wanted to add a picture for reference. On the tilt column, the black torq head screw(its directly above the silver torq) holds the cylinder in. Be careful pulling out the key presence sensor, it is tricky to put back in correctly. All the other steps are the same.

 

imagejpeg2b.jpg

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Is the "key presence sensor" that white plastic and copper contact thing? I am having troubles with the tilt column that I changed out the lock cylinder on. The chime goes off when you take the key out, NOT when you leave the key in as it should...my horn also sticks ON, but I think that is a separate issue - disconnected the horns for now...

 

Also, I've since bought a Craftsman lock ring compressor tool to make this process easier. It works REALLY well, lock ring removal is almost fun now! No more picks and tiny screwdrivers wedged in there, you just need them to unseat the ring now and slide it up the tool, everything backs off very nicely and un-compresses slowly and safely.

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Is the "key presence sensor" that white plastic and copper contact thing? I am having troubles with the tilt column that I changed out the lock cylinder on. The chime goes off when you take the key out, NOT when you leave the key in as it should...my horn also sticks ON, but I think that is a separate issue - disconnected the horns for now...

 

http://www.diyfiero.com/dropspot/Jazzma ... ebuild.pdf

 

Here's some info on it. Go to page 51.

 

I think you probably installed the sensor with the key in? It sounds like its doing the reverse of how it should operate.

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First, unless we're not seeing some pictures your lock plate is missing. You'd never be able to compress that spring and get that snap ring off with a screw driver if the lock plate was there. You would most likely either bend the lock plate or break the plastic on the steering column. Here's a picture of a lock plate. The lock pin you're referring to engages into the slots in the lock plate. If the lock plate is missing the steering wheel can't lock.

Mac...

 

Not trying to be rude or anything..Third pic shows rusty lock plate under plastic cover.. If there was no lock plate on there, that plastic cover over the plate wouldn't hold everything together. the clip above it in place wouldn't have kept it from being loose against the "splash guard". plus the steering wheel's compression spring wouldn't be under load, resulting in a steering wheel that is not correctly seated or secured. It is nearly impossible and downright dangerous to drive a vehicle with a missing lock plate.

 

It is scary as $#!&. Did it once and that was enough. only moved it around the corner from the house, but with an incorrectly assembled column (gm Saginaw same as ours) it wobbled back and forth in my hands when I went to change direction. I got to know them fairly well.

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Is the "key presence sensor" that white plastic and copper contact thing? I am having troubles with the tilt column that I changed out the lock cylinder on. The chime goes off when you take the key out, NOT when you leave the key in as it should...my horn also sticks ON, but I think that is a separate issue - disconnected the horns for now...

 

http://www.diyfiero.com/dropspot/Jazzma ... ebuild.pdf

 

Here's some info on it. Go to page 51.

 

I think you probably installed the sensor with the key in? It sounds like its doing the reverse of how it should operate.

 

Aha - Yes, the key was probably in the column when it went back together. Learn something everyday. Thanks!

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Hey, I just wanted to piggy back on this one. I used your write up to take my lock cylinder out, but the plastic piece the cylinder attaches to (the bowtie shaped hole in the pic) broke off. That was the original issue. Any idea what the part number is for that?

 

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Firmly grasp the ignition lock...

 

 

And pull to the right.

 

 

Now you have your lock out. What about getting the steering wheel to unlock or starting the Jeep until the replacement parts are procured?

 

Well, me being the impatient one that I am I broke the plastic cover on the column.

 

The rod that controls the steering lock and ingition switch is right there. You can accomplish the next step without busting your column up. It just has to be done from under the dash.

 

Grab the rod and push it forward.

 

 

Here you can see the steering wheel lock engaged (pointed thing at the top of the column)

 

 

And here it is released.

 

 

Reassemble everything in reverse order and you will be able to start and drive your Jeep without a key.

 

This is not suggested but if you are in a bind this will get you out of it rather quickly

This is a lifesaver! thank you!

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Can someone update the pictures? Most old how-to images aren't viewable. Thanks

1986 Jeep Comanche X
4WD GM 2.8L V6
Front: Stock Dana 30
Rear: Stock AMC 20
Los Angeles CA

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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6 hours ago, marcial88 said:

Can someone update the pictures? Most old how-to images aren't viewable. Thanks

1986 Jeep Comanche X
4WD GM 2.8L V6
Front: Stock Dana 30
Rear: Stock AMC 20
Los Angeles CA

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

they work for me on the computer, might try in a browser on the mobile site, Tapatalk is strange on loading some pictures

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