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Posted

what are some long arm lift kits that are good and won't break my bank i live up in canada also so shipping kills me right now i have been looking at motion offroad but have then been told some stories about them right now... ive looked at treks which i LOVE but then again comes in shipping prices cause then i gotta ship stuff from jcr cause i want there sliders and 1 ton steering anyone have a solution for me maybe a used set up thats still in good shape =)

Posted

I have read some stories about MO, but have dealt with them personally and have not had any problems. They sell good quality parts, be they their own or other brands, and their customer service can't be beat. Once I was missing parts from a box that got thrown around too hard by DHL and busted open, MO overnighted replacement parts at no cost to me. I would buy from them again without a second thought.

 

No direct experience, but I heard RE is good, as is Rock Krawler. Stay away from Rusty's (and Rocky Road?)

Posted

Claytons makes a good long arm system too. When looking for longarms, it's important to make sure the manufacturer knows about the differences between the XJ and MJ.

Posted

is anyone here running the 6.5 from motion? or the clayton lift kit? also anyone live in the states that goes up to canada that could bring some stuff across the border for me so shipping isent as bad?

Posted
isent the whole front end suspension the same?

 

The front on the XJ and MJ is the same ONLY....the rear suspension is completely different...MJ's are SUA and have longer leaves and XJ's are SOA and have slightly shorter leaf packs

Posted

The suspension is the same, but the lower control arm mounts are different (and a real pain to cut off). They have an extra brace on them. Also there's an extra mount holding the transmission crossmember up and the frame is a bit different. These don't really come into play with a short arm lift, but can with a long arm lift.

Posted

The real question is do you need long arms?

 

DBs are a cheaper solution to you problems. Cheaper to ship, you can return the truck to stock later on, and work good up to about 7" of lift.

 

Just another option for you to look into.

Posted
The real question is do you need long arms?

 

DBs are a cheaper solution to you problems. . .you can return the truck to stock later on, and work good up to about 7" of lift.

All the reasons I went for the RE 5.5'' lift. I was going to get the TNT Y-Link (Trek) long arm kit, but time/money factors won over. Never driven an XJ/MJ with a long arm, but with the RE kit it rides better than before the lift. HTH

Posted
what are the advantages of long arms? arent they way nicer for when your 4x4ing alot?

 

Long arms have disadvantages too. Unloading while climbing a steep ledge or on a side hill are two of the biggest problems with them.

 

Advantage. They offer a tad more flex than DBs and a little smoother ride. More often than not, flex is going to be limited to your shock length. Which means DBs will flex just as well as LAs.

 

I had RK LAs on my old XJ and they were nice. But lately I have been seeing the advantages of DBs (price) becoming more of a deciding factor.

Posted

i want to stay away from a transfer case drop which i see comes with the RE kit what does the transfer case drop do? is there anything else i'll need with this kit? other then a 1 ton steering kit that i want

Posted

so far for if i make a hybrid lift kit i got

 

Treks long arm upgrade

Adjustable Track Bar & Bracket

treks UBE

RE coils

currie or jcr steering kit

xtended brakelines

 

what else would i need?

 

looking at this its gonna cost more then if i just buy a kit

Posted

if i buy the treks kit then i have to save up anouther 1000 just for my sliders 1 ton steering and bumper =( if i go motion i can get everything for the price of just treks kit but is it worth it?

Posted

my issue with the treks kit is that in order to do any work on the transmission or transfercase or front driveshaft, you have to support the entire vehicle on blocks. this is because you have to disconnect the two points which are the only mounting points for the suspension arms.

Posted
my issue with the treks kit is that in order to do any work on the transmission or transfercase or front driveshaft, you have to support the entire vehicle on blocks. this is because you have to disconnect the two points which are the only mounting points for the suspension arms.

 

forgot about that. something to think about.

Posted
my issue with the treks kit is that in order to do any work on the transmission or transfercase or front driveshaft, you have to support the entire vehicle on blocks. this is because you have to disconnect the two points which are the only mounting points for the suspension arms.

 

forgot about that. something to think about.

 

That is definitly something to think about! Its not a very fun game to have to support the front of the vehicle, stabalize and support the front axle, and undo the 14 bolts on the belly skid. No one ever tells you this.

Posted

There are some othe disadvantages to DB's, as well as some LA's. They become rock magnets. I have run both of them, and I definately prefer long arms to db's. Currently I am running Rock krawlers 3 link and love it.

 

 

Also a 6.5 you can clear 35's with bump stopping

Posted
There are some othe disadvantages to DB's, as well as some LA's. They become rock magnets. I have run both of them, and I definately prefer long arms to db's. Currently I am running Rock krawlers 3 link and love it.

 

 

Also a 6.5 you can clear 35's with bump stopping

 

not really...he doesn't want to trim at all. I'm in the same boat, at 6.5" need to add 1.5" to my truck so I can put 34" or 35" tires on without rubbing.

 

my 33x10.50's rub like a sonova at every point when fully flexed.

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