dasbulliwagen Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 The toes is almost perfect, the camber is a little negative on both sides but not enough to worry too much about, and the caster is just under 5 degrees. Less than I would like it to be, and it will probably be worse once I put on my new shackles on the rear. I need to find some caster shims and get another right side rod end, and new rear shackles and Ill align it again. It will be much better I think once I get the caster where it should be. The machine says it should be 7-8 degrees. I'm not sure yet if any of this has taken care of any DW since putting in the dana 30 front axle, but I guess Ill find out soon enough. I agree, if your getting DW after the lift and your Caster is only 5 degrees. Could defineately be a large contributing factor. Couple other comments confuse me. Nothing you could do to the shackles will have anything to do with the front end of your truck. Camber is not adjustable. Unless you want to try those fancy balljoints. As for shims, you can make them if you cannot find them to purchace. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm Good luck, CW If I put bigger shackles on the rear, it raises the rear end in relation to the front, thus affecting caster angle negatively. Thanks for the shim link! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 Replaced breather elbow and upper radiator hose. Where did you find a breather elbow? JY?? CW Advance Auto Parts. Dorman/Help! part number 47034, markes as "PCV system elbow, GM" has the correct 1" push in end to go into the valve cover. The other end is 5/8" instead of 1/2", but a small hose clamp fixes that just fine. Cost $4.59. This will work for the Renix (87-90) valve covers. The HO valve cover is different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 13, 2010 Share Posted June 13, 2010 If I put bigger shackles on the rear, it raises the rear end in relation to the front, thus affecting caster angle negatively. Thanks for the shim link! I gotta tell you that's quite a stretch. I mean yes it will make a difference, but its so freakin' small its never gonna make enough of a difference to ever worry about. Math isn't my strong suit, but a quick calculation shows a bit over 3" of lift to the rear on a long wheel base MJ equates to one degree of caster change up front. IF nothing is changed up front. :nuts: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 Today was forecast to be a wash out... rain showers with some thunder all day.. well it was gray and the rain kinda only spit here and there but didn't actually rain till about an hour ago and even that is now done. SO, I didn't plan anything but clean up round the house and garage. I was able to work on the MJ and trailer all day long!!! I picked up some 3/4" x 1/8" steel and I made up two mounts for the "fish eye" mirrors that I was using as my side view mirrors. I tried some of those stick on blind spot jobbers but they suk. Now I have 4" blind spot mirrors, MAN I can see from a foot in front of my back tire to well over the roof and about 10-15' of the sides. Pass side view from drivers seat: Drivers side view, again from drivers seat: With the lack of rain, I tried some Meguiars color X I picked up. the rattle can paint has never been waxed and has oxidised pretty badly. This stuff is supposedly easy to use and fast. It was pretty easy and here is a shot of the drivers side done and the pass side untouched: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben3G Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 went and got some bucket seats and center console plan on putting them in tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Tinker with it every evening. The switch over to the automatic transmission is a done deal except some more permenant wiring needs to be done here and there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Found out this morning that I still have DW. Though its not as bad as it was before. I ordered some factory front caster shims yesterday to prepare for setting my front caster where it should be, the dealer is the ONLY place Ive seen them being sold, as I really don't feel like making my own, and picked up my second new right outer tie rod end from autozone... hopefully this one is made right. And my buddy is looking for the rear chevy drop shackles he has so I can install them as well. Ill get my new rod end in, and the rear shackles, then I can set the caster and re align the front end again. Hopefully this will help the DW.... if not, its time to go shopping again for more parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kastein Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Filled it with spare parts and camping gear for NAXJA NACFest... It's ridin' a little low :rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 I added a new muffler.... Flo-Master SUPER44!!! Sounds good with no tail pipe, but gonna go back to one. It should be here tomorrow. I'll post a sound clip once the tail pipe is on. Gonna chop the 90 Degree bend and make it exit straight back with a slash cup tip. Nice and high inside the frame rails. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 I added a new muffler.... Flo-Master SUPER44!!! Sounds good with no tail pipe, but gonna go back to one. It should be here tomorrow. I'll post a sound clip once the tail pipe is on. Gonna chop the 90 Degree bend and make it exit straight back with a slash cup tip. Nice and high inside the frame rails. CW i have mine the exact same way. only real "problem" i have is when the exhaust heats up the d-ring on the bumper and it burns your hand :shake: good thing there are 2 d-rings on the bumper haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 Installed my new header pipe and cat con. Still needs a new muffler and t-pipe, but I will wait until it is completely gone first :). Got the header pipe off flea-bay for $35 and the cat con was about $135. Both direct fit with no mods needed. Happy, happy, joy, joy. Truck runs better and idles better with the cat con. PO had straight piped it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 I found out that I cannot use a factory tail pipe! :wall: :wall: BUT I CAN use a 8' piece of straight pipe!! I also found that last nights repair of the cat flange leaks.... I found a removable flange and a new gasket fixed that up right quick!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Striped it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Cleaned up the AW4 & 231. Shoved back in corner Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Had to open another thread as for some reason I can only download 1 pic at a time from P Bucket. Any way the canopy is back on now [/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 Had to open another thread as for some reason I can only download 1 pic at a time from P Bucket. Any way the canopy is back on now I just gotta say DAMN thats a nice clean truck!! Good show man!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 On Booger (the beater XJ) I finally swapped out the oil pressure switch for a sender for the full gauge cluster I put in last February. Still have to do water temp. Also got a new passenger side axle shaft for the Pig to replace the CV shaft that went in after a failed ball joint cost me a u joint and shaft while being parked in a river for 27 hours. Had to leave the junk yard halfway through to get a few broken tools swapped out at Sears, and buy some bigger ones while there. Still couldn't get the spindle nut off, so I pulled the unit bearing along with the axle shaft. Didn't even get charged extra for it. Why is it a good quality breaker bar with a 4 fot pipe on it and a 200 pound person jumping on the end can't get a spindle nut loose, but en inexpensive 240 foot pound impact wrench gets it in seconds? And why can't I find manual impact wrenches (the ones you hit with a hammer) any more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted June 20, 2010 Share Posted June 20, 2010 This AM bolted on a set 0f $5 yard sale fogs that was missing only a bracket bolt. They were mfg in late 70's (Durimex, now Delta brand) & were still in original box and never used. At 55W with a flat horizontal cutoff they'll fit my needs just fine. Still think I may hang them below the bumper to get them closer to the ground and spread out a little more on the bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camjeep3 Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 put a bolt back in my 4wd lever so now i have 4wd :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Found a SWB Sportruck with a Dana 44 about 1 mile away from my house, I left a business card on the window and hope he joins up. I'm gonna stop in sometime and get some more info and maybe even see if he wants 2 sell...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 I got the "tail pipe" on today!!! Well, its just a 7' 2.5" stick of exhaust tube, run tight up under the bed. I think its sounds great! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanchedude Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 changed oil and replaced track bar bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MjAllTheWay Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Replaiced u joints on main drive shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 worked unsucessfully for an hour trying to get the aluminum spacer off my old steering box because i broke the one off my new one. i tried everything short of cutting the steering box itself and i still can't get the busted bolts out(there holding the spacer in place) :fs1: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 worked unsucessfully for an hour trying to get the aluminum spacer off my old steering box because i broke the one off my new one. i tried everything short of cutting the steering box itself and i still can't get the busted bolts out(there holding the spacer in place) :fs1: find some nuts that are just larger than your bolt thread and the same width as the aluminum spacer, and put them in. lock tight the $#!& out of them, and you should be ok. just keep an eye on them until you find a proper spacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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