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CW's MJ 2005 - 10


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Mitch,

These are the same LCA's I have had since the last lift two Aprils ago. They are adjustable for legnth.

 

Well tonight I got a bit of a late start....

 

I got the UCA bushings pressed out of the axle and the new ones pressed in.

 

I got the UCA bolt holes drilled out to 1/2" as per instructions.

 

I finished bolting up the remaining bolts for the brackets.

 

I set the CA legnths to proper legnth for proper caster. I went with 16" LCA's and 15 3/8 UCA's. caster is right at 6 degress.

 

 

I bolted up all the control arms.

 

 

Here is a couple detail shots of the DB's

 

 

 

bri

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Day four...

 

I got two of the bushings pressed out of the Bilsteins. What a bugger!!! had to do the entire bushing...that sleeve was perminantly attached to the bushing!!! I had to sacrafice a socket in the process!!! I installed the BPE's from the other shocks and they where set to install.

 

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Then I put in the 4" extended YJ brake lines. Followed by the springs. thats when I got my suprise.....the freakin droop in absolutely increadible!!! It must droop 6+ inches further!!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

 

 

I need to bleed the brakes then adjust the Track bar to re-center the axle. Lastly change the tranny mount, exaust bracket and cross member. Lastly take it for an allignment and I'm DONE!!!

 

 

Here is a video clip showing and explaning the new droop. Sorry its side ways.....the wife sometimes forgets.

 

 

CW

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does the 16" LCA's appear to be enough? do the drop brackets help lower the length needed for LCA's? As the chart I have shows 16" is good for a 3-4 lift.

drop brackets lower the mounting point of the arm, so a shorter arm is needed. They basically put the geometry back to stock, only 4 inches below factory.

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Thats correct.

 

In my case, actually the axle has been moved quite far forward. Its LOOKs much farther forward, way different!! As a matter of fact, the discos where touching the coils before I adjusted them!!

 

 

Well, as you can see and read, I got it done tonight. jamminz.gif

 

I tightened everything, bleed the brakes, adjusted the track bar and discos. Then threw in the rear shocks. These are even longer than the last ones. So I had to drill another set of mounting holes to accommodate. I put the EVS bump stops on last night.

 

 

Then I took it out for a ride. OH MY GAWD!!!! The ride is absolutely unbelievable. I think its nicer than the wives WJ!!!! :eek: :brows: Only had it up to about 40 and haven't been in any curves or bad road bumps but so far it feels mighty nice!!! I'm keeping my fingers crossed 6-7degrees is enough caster for no death wobbles!!!

 

CW

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Here is a pic from just after the AT's went on...maybe three months ago.

 

 

Hers is one from yasterday:

 

 

You can see the amount the axle moved forward. Even though the CA's are now shorter. The Drop brackets move the mounting holes forward as well as down. If you look close at the second pic, you can see the bolt hole for the factory LCA. But the new one in the Drop bracket is hidden by the tire. Because its forward of origional. Like 87, mentioned.

 

CW

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Something I never did back when I installed my POSI LOC. A steel fork.

 

one day last year i had trouble engeging the POSI LOC. After the day it has been sticking when trying to disengege. Whjat happens is the hole where the cable passes thru oblongs ever so slightly. tghe tolerances are so the this little "rocking" causes things to bind. The cure is to install a steel fork in place of the alum alloy fact piece.

 

Its very straight forward. only difficulty was pushing the cable end into the forks hold. its almost a press fit. VERY snug. Works PERFECT now!! I also found that I wasnt getting full engegemant of the splines. i fixed that as well.

 

Here is a couple pics:

 

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CW

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I got a chance to start mocking up for my front bumper today.

I'm using 2"x3"x13/16" steel.

 

I am building it off my DETOURS winch mount.

 

I started with a short piece then attached a 15" piece at an angle rearwards.

 

 

Then I chopped that at an angle and ran it straight back, parallel to the body lines.

 

 

At the end, I chopped it at a 45 degree angle for looks and better tire clearance. Then I capped the ends so it appears a solid piece of steel.

 

Here it is all welded up ready for the grinder.

 

 

I duplicated everything for the drivers side.

 

 

I needed to chop a bit more from the bottom of my fenders.

 

 

Here is both sides

 

 

I am going to grind all the welds so it appears as one piece of steel. Here it is all ground. Ready for the first coats of primer.

 

 

You can see in the last picture. I am going to cut the steel so it will fit up perfectly level with the back bone mount. Then weld everything together.

I am also going to all another level so it appears thicker. I'm unsure if I'll go to the trouble of another of the same sandwiched together or just something so it appears wider/thicker.

 

Stay tuned....

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I had some thinner stuff...but it just didnt look up to the rask.....

 

The ones I have on my TJ are 3/16'' so I went with that.

 

I was also concerned about the weight. But figured, if I was going with a big honkin' bumper I would have gone thinner. But this shouldn't be alot more than what you see here....

 

CW

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OK, here is what I did for my front shocks.

 

I used 1x3/32 square stock and some 5/16x2" bolts and made spacers for the bottom on my shocks.

 

I wanted to use these:

 

 

But the threads where wrong. My extentions are std thread and the Bilsteins Metric. So I needed to move the bottom up.

 

First I cut the stock into four pieces 1 1/2" long.

 

 

Then I maked center and drilled them all with 5/16" holes.

 

 

Then painted.

 

 

 

Here they are, all bolted in place.

 

 

Again with what I have for room 27 1/2" would be about perfect. The Bilsteins I have are 25.6" extended. But as they sit, I have about 3" of droop and 7" of compression. Totaling just over 10" of travel. Now with this addition the spacers, the shocks sit at just over 4" inside the shock at ride height. Or 60/40 compression/droop instead of 70/30.

 

OLD:

 

 

NEW:

 

 

CW

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  • 4 weeks later...

I got some new trail tires mounted up today.

 

After seeing Mitch's new 34" Swampers and how GREAT it looks. My love affair with tall skinny tires on MJ's has been renewed.

I helped my Brother in law get these late last year. he is not ready for them with his MJ and in talking to him. I have descovered, he isnt as big a fan of the pizza cutter look as I am. SO, we are gonna swap!! My 10.5's for his 9.5's. He is also getting a set of AR alum mags as well.

 

I decided to mount them on the second generation "Phone Dial" jeep rims. (First gen had the little nubs)

 

I really like the look!!

 

 

I cleaned up the rims with coil cleaner. Its made for AC condensers and works GREAT on heavily soiled alum rims!!

 

 

BEFORE:

 

AFTER:

 

This is with VERY LITTLE elbow grease. basically spray on, wait and rince. I went back with a soft brush and second rince, followed by a towel dry. A couple have some spalding but over all thay came out GREAT!!!

 

 

Here is the front, then back followed by a broad side view.

 

 

Here is a shot from the front.

 

 

These are just my TRAIL tires. I am still gonna be running the ATs a DD but I have another, different set of rims for them as well!!

 

:brows: CW

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Mitch,

Just before I wrote that I was on the jeepz site and saw the thread where you bought them. Sorry for the mix up!! TWISTYS looks AWESOME as well with dem pizza cutters!!! jamminz.gif

 

Dirty,

I am worried about that...this was what I had on hand for stock....maybe I'll PU some thicker stock and do them over.....

 

Warf,

They worked OK. I have since gone back to lead stick on weights in the center of the rim. Here is a link... http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm

 

Wild man,

Thanks for the compliments!!

No I didn't put anything on them. Becare full using this as it is a ACID!! It WILL eat the clear coat, so be aware. I also have a set of ten spokes. I WAS going to use them. But at the last minute decided on the phone dials. Less common, I like that.

 

CW

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CW - Good to know, I have some clear coat pealing, so this would work for both the pealing clear coat, and the weathered alum.....Cool.....And I know what your saying.....rinse them thoroughly, and wait some time to add clear coat ;)

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