DJM/78 Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Nice !! That was my original concept when I bought my truck , to see how many TJ parts would retro-fit to the MJ . I plan on keeping my truck for as long as possible , so finding newer more abundant and better working parts is a great idea . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 I got it running! This was the first fire with the 04 TJ tank and pump. I primed the system, bled the air out through the schrader valve, and this is what we got. The tank is currently just hanging on some tie down straps. It also currently does not have any anti-freeze or power steering fluid in it, and it is just an open header. Thus the reason for the quick shut down. I am so happy it ran. This is the first time it has ran since September of 2008! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostissues Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 AWESOME! congrats. If I ever get around to it I would love to do a full 97+ swap. And if I ever do this will be one of the main resources I will use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4Lo Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: Congrats!!! I guess the TJ tank set up worked well? Any ideas on how you are going to mount it? I've been brainstorming all weekend on my set up. Just food for thought but I'm thinking about buying this: http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/pr ... 288&page=1 And using it on the MJ tank. My idea is to block off the current fuel pump hole on the MJ tank and cut a new hole on the top of the tank where the ring is pictured below. Based off my measurements the XJ pump set up will sit about ~1-2" off the bottom of the MJ tank when dropped in from the top. Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 I have a similar set up from Copperhead Fab. http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?action=productview&productid=203 I'll give it to you for $50 shipped. I found out the slosh tray in the tank will get in the way of the TJ pump. If you want to hack the tray out it could work. I lost interest in the idea fairly quickly. I should have stayed to course I think. It would have been easier in the long run. I have the mounts for the TJ tank figured out. I am waiting for my straps to get here from Rockauto. Here is a sneak peak of the tank mounts. I took pics of each and every step to make this. Once the straps get here I will do a full show and tell of the process for y'all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4Lo Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I have a similar set up from Copperhead Fab. http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?action=productview&productid=203 I'll give it to you for $50 shipped. I found out the slosh tray in the tank will get in the way of the TJ pump. If you want to hack the tray out it could work. I lost interest in the idea fairly quickly. I should have stayed to course I think. It would have been easier in the long run. I have the mounts for the TJ tank figured out. I am waiting for my straps to get here from Rockauto. Here is a sneak peak of the tank mounts. I took pics of each and every step to make this. Once the straps get here I will do a full show and tell of the process for y'all. Did you try to cut up the MJ tank to make the copperhead rings work? That tank mount system you've made looks really good, looking forward to the pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Did you try to cut up the MJ tank to make the copperhead rings work? That tank mount system you've made looks really good, looking forward to the pics! Nope, I have my unmolested tank sitting in the garage. I beat my head against the wall trying to figure out a work around to cutting the tank up. I like the TJ gauge cluster better than the XJ one. I really wanted to use it in my truck. Mainly to be different than all the other 97+ trucks out there. I spent entirely too long on this fuel system. It will be worth it in the end though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4Lo Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Did you try to cut up the MJ tank to make the copperhead rings work? That tank mount system you've made looks really good, looking forward to the pics! Nope, I have my unmolested tank sitting in the garage. I beat my head against the wall trying to figure out a work around to cutting the tank up. I like the TJ gauge cluster better than the XJ one. I really wanted to use it in my truck. Mainly to be different than all the other 97+ trucks out there. I spent entirely too long on this fuel system. It will be worth it in the end though. I didn't realize the TJ guage cluster was different than the XJ cluster? The TJ pump/sender unit is the same on the TJ as the XJ, right? Send me a PM with your paypal address and I'll send you over payment for the copperhead rings. I'll give them a try for $50.00. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 I didn't realize the TJ guage cluster was different than the XJ cluster? The TJ pump/sender unit is the same on the TJ as the XJ, right? Send me a PM with your paypal address and I'll send you over payment for the copperhead rings. I'll give them a try for $50.00. The gauges are slightly different between the two. The TJ fuel sender values are different than the XJ's. You need to make sure that if you use a TJ pump you use a TJ cluster and vice versa. You can also just replace the gauge sender on the side of pump to either TJ or XJ. It just clips on the pump module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4Lo Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I didn't realize the TJ guage cluster was different than the XJ cluster? The TJ pump/sender unit is the same on the TJ as the XJ, right? Send me a PM with your paypal address and I'll send you over payment for the copperhead rings. I'll give them a try for $50.00. The gauges are slightly different between the two. The TJ fuel sender values are different than the XJ's. You need to make sure that if you use a TJ pump you use a TJ cluster and vice versa. You can also just replace the gauge sender on the side of pump to either TJ or XJ. It just clips on the pump module. Gotcha....thanks for the tip. I'm planning to use the XJ cluster with the XJ fuel pump/sender so I should be ok. Payment sent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostissues Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 so with the fuel system all you had to do was use a TJ tank/sender combo and use a TJ cluster correct? or were there other stuff that you had to do to get things to work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 so with the fuel system all you had to do was use a TJ tank/sender combo and use a TJ cluster correct? or were there other stuff that you had to do to get things to work? I used the 97 XJ's fuel line, from the engine to the tank, as well. I re-bent it so it would follow the frame and back of the cab. Other than that all I used was a 19 gallon TJ tank and a 97-99 TJ cluster. My fuel gauge works properly and the engine has the proper fuel pressure to stay happy. I am glad the tank issues are worked out and she runs... FINALLY :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostissues Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 OK so I have a line on a 97+ xj that was rolled. what would you say is the bulk of the work needed to make the swap? looking through the builds that have done it on here and the one on jeep forum it looks like the biggest problem is the firewall. getting that to fit correctly. other then that it looked like figuring out the gas tank which you seam to have come up with the easiest and most effective solution. I was looking for the work involved in just the drive train swap (motor, tranny, dash) and not so much the exterior (already have the 97 front end and fenders) and interior such as the seats. is everything else just pretty much swapping parts? what other parts need fabrication or a lot of work to get swapped? lots of questions sorry, just seeing if it will be worth the trouble to make the plunge :banana: Thanks for any info, Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfpdm Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 :clapping: It lives! Hurry up and finish so I can steal the rest of your ideas for the next build. :brows: J/K :D :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 OK so I have a line on a 97+ xj that was rolled. what would you say is the bulk of the work needed to make the swap? The firewall and dash are the biggest issues. The interior wiring will test your patience as well. looking through the builds that have done it on here and the one on jeep forum it looks like the biggest problem is the firewall. getting that to fit correctly. I cut the Xj's firewall out and used it as a cover for the column holes. other then that it looked like figuring out the gas tank which you seam to have come up with the easiest and most effective solution. I was looking for the work involved in just the drive train swap (motor, tranny, dash) and not so much the exterior (already have the 97 front end and fenders) and interior such as the seats. is everything else just pretty much swapping parts? what other parts need fabrication or a lot of work to get swapped? It is not an easy swap and it should not be taken lightly. You will need a lot of time to pull it off. I have been at it for 18 months and some change. Make sure if you do decide to try it you give yourself more time than you anticipated. Nothing under the hood lines up. You will have to mount the washer, cruise servo, ecm, purge solenoid, and numerous other little things. lots of questions sorry, just seeing if it will be worth the trouble to make the plunge :banana: Thanks for any info, Jonathan No worries man. If you give it a shot take time off when it gets to be a burden and keep the donor around as long as humanly possible. This will keep you from asking people in parking lots or friends with XJs to see their engine, firewall, or any other area you forgot how to assemble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 :clapping: It lives! Hurry up and finish so I can steal the rest of your ideas for the next build. :brows: J/K :D :cheers: Thanks Paul. I did not spend near as much time detailing parts as you did. I am building it more as a driver and weekend (easy) wheeler for the wife. I think she will enjoy her new truck. That is if I can keep her out of my (soon to be) 4 door MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Its alive good work man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 I got the rest of my parts today to finish most of the tank install. You will need, 80" of 1"x2" (1/4" wall thickness) rectangular tubing 72" of 1 1/2"x2 1/2" (1/4" wall thickness) rectangular tubing 2 stock MJ tank strap "J" bolts 2000-2005 Chevy Astro fuel tank straps (Part # ST184 from Rockauto) Various nuts and bolts Here is how I did it. Take your bed off and locate the 4 stock tank mounts, Then using a grinder chop them off, cut the 1x2 to expose the end leaving about 3 1/4" then bend the first inch over (heat is your friend here) Mark where the center bed rib will go through and fillet the tube to look like this (you will use bolts through the ears to mount it) Cut the other end to clap around the rear bed brace (just like the front) Test fit it to make sure it fits your bed braces, Now make another one, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 cut your 1 1/2"x2 1/2" a 1/2" from the bottom to hug the 1"x2" (these will be the tank stand offs) and repeat this on the other side. I made mine 36" long. test fit it on your first mounts. (ensuring the 1/2" cut is towards the bed floor) make another one to match your first one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Pull your nice shinny Astro Van straps out of the package. There are two sides to them. One will be 5" from the bolt to where the strap gets fat and the other will be 6" to the fat part. Beat the 5" side flat, do not hit the bolt, and drill a hole through the 1x2 and put a nut on the bolt sticking through. Tighten it down. Drill a hole directly across form it on your other piece of 1x2 for the "J" bolt. You will need to elongate the hole on the back side to get the flat part of the "J" bolt through. it should look like this when done test fit your tank and repeat for the other one. You may need to rebend the straps a little to get them to fit correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Use sheet metal screws to temporarily hold your mounts in place. DO NOT PERMANENTLY BOLT IT DOWN YET. You were warned. Put your bed back on and put the tank into place. Hopefully it lines up and fits correctly. If not adjust your location until you get these measurements. You want 1/2" of clearance to the drivers side frame rail, a inch or so to the rear brake line mess, about two inches from the front of the cab. you will need 1" from the center of the parking brake cable bracket to your inside piece of 1x2 It hangs down a bit lower than a stock tank and you will need to have a 3" tube rear shaft made to clear if you plan on running less than 4" of lift. Enven then it might still rub the tank under a bottom out condition. This truck will never see that but it will be getting the 3" tube rear shaft for safety's sake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Nice work, as always. :cheers: what are you doing with the MJ tank? :brows: Dunno? You want it? It needs a sending unit and "J" bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reson46 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 It hangs down a bit lower than a stock tank From these pictures it almost looks like you may have a little more clearance than stock. My tank hangs down a little below the frame rails almost even with the front leaf spring eye bolt. :thumbsup: Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Nice work, as always. :cheers: what are you doing with the MJ tank? :brows: Dunno? You want it? It needs a sending unit and "J" bolts. The one in my 88 has rusted so bad it's empty. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Nice work, as always. :cheers: what are you doing with the MJ tank? :brows: Dunno? You want it? It needs a sending unit and "J" bolts. The one in my 88 has rusted so bad it's empty. :( You still remember how to get to the house? You can have it Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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