Limeyjeeper

Welcome, some nice fabrication work!!

I stand corrected. I have a 99 stroker block in my 91 and I thought it was all the same my bad.

You just want to use the block and heads. The 4.0 block is pretty much unchanged through the years. Any year block has the same mounts. You can bolt up all your accessories from your 87 to the 2000 block.

I run a 242 in both my MJ's almost as tough as a 231. Not as much aftermarket support but full-time AWD is very handy. Can be a little noisy and jerky but I think it is the perfect compromise. You will need a 23 spline from a ZJ or a any XJ with an AX15 that will be a short snout and will work but seal between your TC and trans as you can get a bit if fluid leakage. The medium snout is pretty rare and only came behind the 93-95 ZJ with an auto. Avoid the long snout which will not fit with an AX15. Rebuilding is very easy. The kit costs about $200. I would also get an aftermarket linkage. The factory one is junk.

Got Dirtbound sliders. Not even close.

Been struggling with getting enough front DS clearance for the exhaust. Think I have finally cracked it. Took her on her first run today to the Ultra 4 racing event at Cross bar Ranch, Davis, OK. What a fun event. Cross Bar Ranch is huge and a lot of fun. Got to give the Comanche a bit of a shakedown. The LS motor is insanely torquey for doing trails. Did a couple of trails. Nothing too crazy but enough to shake out the suspension and make sure the wiring all held together Went to support DKA Motorsports who run a Comanche in Ultra Racing Replaced the Springs. I had the OME 2931. Way too soft. Went with the OME 2930. Much better. Fixed the castor angle and toe in, she was quite and handful driving to Davis.. This also helped with the front DS hitting the exhaust. Still not totally happy with the outcome, but at least for now it isn't hitting everytime I go over a big bump. Might have to redo the downpipe section and try and tuck in higher. Now working on wrapping the harness and finishing the interior. Matched the bottom of the door cards with the seat fabric. Turned out pretty good I think. Next project will be wind noise. Not sure what is going on but the wind noise is insane. Might be the rubber windshield surround. Used 97 + door seals to try and help. They made a decent difference. Might get better when I put the headliner and trim pieces in. Also need to get the firewall fully sealed, and add some more heat shield. It gets hot in the cab!!. Bought a nifety electric heater valve which I think will work much better than the stock factory one. It is controlled by a knob in the cab, so you can control the hot coolant flow much better. Not cheap but good quality and beats the stupid leaky vacuum factory one. I am thinking by end of December this baby will be pretty much done.......for now.

Check the continuity of the harness wire that plugs into the distributor pickup. That wire often fails.

It is much faster. The torque is insane. You literally never need first gear. It is also so tunable with HP tuners unlike the Jeep. I never really got any of the strokers I built dialed in perfectly. 315hp in a drive train that is 150lbs lighter than the 4.0 guarantees a pretty fun ride. Just need to quieten down the interior. Next project!!

Been driving Comanche dawn a lot. Got nearly 500 miles on the engine. Had some issues. Got the AC working. I have a pretty small compressor which I think is struggling to overcome the heater core. So it looks like I will need to get the flow valve working. Thought about changing it to an electrical one with a dash switch. We will see. Gradually get the LS fuel maps right. Got the front DS hitting the exhaust. Need to clock the transfer case back to the XJ not TJ position. This should stop the front DS hitting. Also should get the rear DS angle down from 10 degrees which borderline bad. I have some driveline vibration. It has to come out as it is leaking badly even though it is a NOS case. Just need to pull it and reseal the casing. All the interior is painted. Door panels fixed up. Speedo working perfectly, just need to get the cruise working. Need to pull a 4000 pulse output from the Dakota box to feed the cruise control. Gonna have to figure out something with wind noise. I think Safellite messed up the surround install. It is lifting when driving and makes a real racket. Should have the interior wrapped up in the next month. She does look good in the sun. Lots of small stuff still to do. Wrap harnesses including pulling dash. Install trim and carpet Alignment Cruise Control Move oil temp pickup for more accurate reading.

Move to Texas!! My 91 comanche still continues to try and eat itself because it was originally an Illinois truck!! My new one is almost perfect.

I have used ATK, got their stroker (Mopar) a few years back not great. Also used Powertrain products. Good warranties and great to deal with.

Pulling the front clip, radiator, and radiator crossmenber out makes a huge difference to getting the engine, trans and transfer case out in one shot, which is the best way to do it. So much easier

Why not?

Mad fab skills, so jealous lol

Windshield is in. Along with the rear window. Inspection on Monday. Still battling a VSS issue. Thought I had it cracked. PCM getting good signal but speedo going haywire. Might need a diode to stop feedback. Works fine when VSS connected to speedo without Dakota Digital box. Started to paint the interior trim Jeep Agate to match the center console. Using Colorbond #163 perfect match. Carpet is next after I pull the dash and wrap the harness.

coheed used this latch - Ford F65Z-1527158-AA Door Latch. Early F150.

The one thing about this project is how much I have learned about these magnificent vehicles. This is the latest lesson:- I was having trouble getting the VSS to send the correct pulses to the GM PCM. Couldn't understand it. The Speedo was working ok, I thought. Today I took her out and got her up to around 50 mph and the Speedo started behaving wildly, it was all over the place. So I came back to my garage and pulled the VSS. I noticed some markings on the VSS 26-31, 32-38 and 39 -45. I also noticed a small dot on the transfer case housing. After a little research I learned that a Jeep VSS has to be indexed differently depending on how many teeth are on the speedo gear. I am running 31" tires and a 3.55 rear end which needs a speedo gear with 32 teeth (Rugged Ridge Part No 18760.13). So you have to move the VSS until the markings corresponding to your gear no is lined up with the marking on the transfer case. See yellow circles on the picture below. Viola, the speedo works and the GM PCM is getting the right pulse rate. I am sure many of you are going "I knew that". But after working on this drivetrain for over 18 years I still learn something new almost everyday!! I am using the 3 pin Hall effect VSS. Might be different for the 2 pin, but I doubt it.

You can roll it up if you want. I just remove mine completely. There are 2 cross bars which keep some rigidity in the cover.

Downey Products

Great cover for the price. Had mine for over10 years still going strong!!

Got the heater box vacuum controls all working. Also got the AC electrically working. (Haven't charged it yet) You have to do a bit of rewiring to bypass the Jeep pressure switch and thermistor. On the LS the pressure switch talks to the PCM. ON the Jeep it is just inline with the AC Request circuit. On the 91 cut the green white wire coming out of the plug on the back of the heater control (Far right hand pin) and splice it into the same color wire going to the bulkhead connector. On the engine side of the bulkhead you are looking for the light green wire. That needs to be connected to Pin 17 RED on the PCM. That tells the PCM to turn on the AC. Pin 18 should be connected to the compressor side of the AC Relay. IT tells the PCM that the AC clutch is engaged. You will need a Jeep Receiver/Drier and use a Hi/Lo Pressure switch Part No. 509485. This connects to the PCM as follows:- Pin A to Pin 57 Red on PCM Low reference IAT Pin B to Pin 45 Blue on PCM 5 Volt reference Pin C Pin 14 RED on PCM Signal You will need to connect Pin 43 Red is the feed to the AC Relay. this will pull the pin to Ground and fire the AC Relay. This Pin does NOT supply 12v to the AC Relay just like the Jeep PCM. So connect to the old Dark Blue/Orange wire that went to Pin 34 on the Jeep PCM. to Pin 43 Red on the LS PCM. The plug can be found at EFI Connections. Delphi Metri-Pack 150.2 Part No 100-01164. These guys are awesome for GM connectors. Also managed to get the trim back on the windows. Not a fun job. You have to put the trim on before you put the window and seals in or it is impossible to get them to fit. Also figured out that I had put the window weather-stripping on wrong. Turned out pretty decent. Next up testing the Cruise Control. Figuring out why the park brake light won't go out. Pull the dash wiring and wrapping it. Then Windshield. Also ordered some rubber leaf spring bushings. The Poly ones I have make way too much noise. Got a small engine oil leak to deal with. Then I need to pull the transfer case as that is leaking too. Been driving around the block, the power really makes the Comanche so easy to drive. You never really need 1st gear. Still trying to get the speed into the PCM from the Dakota box to match the speedo which is accurate to GPS. Still about 30% off. Need to get that if I want Cruise Control that works properly. Might have a bad VSS sensor.

When I media blasted my Comanche I never saw a full VIN only the last 8 stamped on the frame.

Yea forgot about that.

Because car theft in Europe is an institution!! They might have stamped the full VIN for Euro approval.

The axle seal on a Dana 30 is a pain. They are inner seals. You have to pull both rotors and hub assemblies. Pull the axle shafts, then you have to pull the diff assembly out of the housing to get to the seals. They are located right by the diff carrier bearings. Probably a 2 hour job.