Limeyjeeper

Tremec?

Great work!! Deeper seats make such a difference to the driving position on a Comanche. I found with my PRP's and the better rake allows the seat to support your thighs so much better. I would never go back to stock seats. They are so short in comparison.

The drive by cable is easier, the tune is much easier as there is none of this silly torque management you get and have to tune out with the DBW. Cruise is easier with DBW. With DBC you will need the cable servo module to make it work. Not hard but the servo box is pretty huge.

Me too

krustyballer saves the day. Great brackets!!

It will support both based on which kit you get.

I would definitely go with the Terminator X I did the harness merge on mine. Very time consuming. I bought a PSI Conversions harness and PCM. The Holley has far better self tuning capabilities in my opinion, It will end up costing roughly the same. Plus the PCM module is tiny compared to the stock GM one so you can easy mount it in the cab. I love the LEDs that tell you sensor status. I am not sure if it support AC. But you can do that without the PCM. All you need is to trigger the fans. It will also support Nitrous and turbo setups.

Good to know!!

Jeep uses pendulum belts. Yanking won't test them. Just make sure they are clean. Blow out the mechanism. Seat belt mechanisms are very reliable. Way to test is drive at around 15mph and slam your brakes on, Pendulum should lock the seatbelt and stop it moving.

Found this pretty interesting a guy actually measured!! https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/amp-draw-xj-1017370/

You can get a new head for around $600. Clearwater does great new or reman heads. Stay away from the 331 heads they are prone to cracking. A big valve head will net you around 15hp. Use a mild cam or you will tear up the no 6 lobe (Been there twice). The old Mopar performance cam was the best but very hard to find. Comp ams has a couple of good mild ams depending on your compression ratio. A good stroker with a big valve head, bored to +0060 with a good header and the 99+ intake would be good for around 250-260hp, with a huge amount of torque. You will see a very noticeable difference. Cooling can be a challenge on a stroker, particularly if you tune it lean. High flow water pumps are snake oil, Tried them all. Use twin factory fans and a Novak radiator. Cold air intake just creates a lot of noise and maybe 2hp. Bored out throttle body, maybe 2hp, spacer zero. I would use an HO or even a late model Jeep PCM. I have done 3 strokers. The one I did in a 2001 WJ tuned the best. With ODB2 you can see so much more about what is going on. Distributorless and coil packs are much better. Pretty big commitment on the wiring harness integration. This site has a wealth of knowledge. Only issue is some of the part no's are not available today. http://jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/index.html Also the Jeepstrokers.com forum has some great stuff. If I was doing an off the shelf stroker today I would use Mopar, Newcomer Racing or Golen. However the real go to guy is Russ Pottenger (never used him he wasn't around when I was doing strokers, but has a terrific reputation) Russ has all the math and knows his stuff. He would configure you the perfect setup. Use guys that know. This stuff is easy to get wrong.

Alternators aren't built to handle full draw on idle. That is why many police packages have a high idle option to spin the alternator faster. The biggest draw in the electrical system is the blower motor about 13A. Lights draw around 12A if not LED. Stock electric fan is about 12A, Everything else is pretty small probably totals around 5A. BTW the jeep stock fan produces 2200 CFM. Pretty impressive. Full load should be 30-40A.

Me too

I agree with 70barracuda the manual is pretty easy except for the clutch. The AX15 can hold stock power if you don't abuse it. The auto is more complicated from a pcm and tuning perspective but can easily be done.

I have used steeringcolumnservices.com they have a great selection of parts.

This is about the only route if you don't want crazy intake temps. Ideally if you use the truck PS pump that has the reservoir behind the pump and you don't use the huge mopar stock fans (unlike me) you should have more space than I had. 3 1/2 piping is plenty big enough for a 5.3.

I called them directly. They will sell to you if they are shipping to you. They have the measurements for the Comanche cover. I got the American work cover junior.

I use this. Simple to use. Perfect flare everytime. Made tons of flares with this beauty. https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

The precision stuff is pretty good. I replaced the door seals with Fairchild 97+ door seals much better seal than the pre 96 design.

Looks good. Love the carbon fiber look on the cluster.

I have been so busy at work and with the weather issues in Texas I hadn't had time to mess with the Jeep until this weekend. I have been struggling with crazy high intake temperatures. Where I had the intake was right on top of the exhaust manifold. My initial idea was to drop it down between the fans in front of the radiator. It worked very well and the intake temps dropped from 160 to under 90 on a 70 degree day.Optimally I always want the intake temp to be within 20 degrees of ambient. However it left the intake very exposed to water ingestion. So I decided to relocate the power steering reservoir and move the intake so it ended up close to the stock location. Intake temps are staying under 100 which is what an LS likes. High intake temps cause the PCM to really throttle back timing, resulting in a significant loss of power. That along with a 3" intake was really choking the engine. If this doesn't work there is always methanol injection lol. So I drilled a hole through the alternator bracket and fed the power steering feed under the throttle body to a new reservoir which I installed on the cylinder head on the passenger side. I used a Aeroflow reservoir from a 2005 GTO and fabricated a bracket. Hole drilled in bracket to feed power steering fluid supply line. Fabricated a bracket using a modified GTO bracket GTO Aeroflow fabricated reservoir. It had the inlet and outlet pointing in the perfect direction Almost looks like it was meant to be there. Intake in new location. I will be fabricating a heat shield to direct airflow from the front of the grille. MAF/IAT sensor mounted by the intake. I was able to get a larger filter in there too.Fabricated a small bracket to keep everything from moving around. Tight but it cleared fine. I was also able to go from 3" to 3 1/2" tubing

Good choice. You will love it. A very high quality piece of kit!!

Most likely a vacuum leak or intake manifold leak.

They are going to look good in the LS!!

Saw those seats at SEMA a couple of years ago. Seemed really comfortable. Almost look like recaros!!