Limeyjeeper

I think I am going to do the same. I am running a GM stock 188 degree thermostat. The Jeep fans should be fine they have very high CFM (over 2,200 each) but I guess they don't cover the complete radiator, so the radiator cooling isn't optimized.

Bleeding a Comanche brake system is one of the most infuriating things you can do, Keep bleeding. If you have no leaks, (including a booster vacuum leak) it has to be air in the system. Passenger rear first, then driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Keep doing it until the pedal hardens. I have had Comanches where it took many attempts to get the pedal firm. Just is what it is.

They are pretty poor. Better off finding an OEM one from a junkyard and refurbishing.

Yes use the Novak mounts. They mount the LS in pretty much the optimal position.

Welcome aboard!!. You are the most genuine bunch of guys you could ever meet. So happy you are going for it and doing the LS. Hope to see you at KOH next year!!

I am now embarking on modifying my 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee TrailHawk which I got to tow Comanche Dawn. I ordered the Chief Products Rock Rails, Frontal Armor and hidden winch mount, the rear bumper protector a few months ago. Hope to get them at the end of August. I will be installing a Superwinch 9500lb winch with synthetic line and remote mounting the solenoid. I just swapped out the stock tires for the Falken Wildpeak AT3W All Terrain Radial Tire - 265/65R18 114T. Heard a lot of good things about them from WK2 owners.

Novak radiator is fatter than stock and longer, but it fits in the stock location without any mods. Do you have AC?

That will be my next step. The problem is the hidden winch.

Sorry I haven't done an update in a while. Been dealing with a bad cooling issue. Took her to Bantam had a great time but she was getting too hot for my liking on the trails. It really struggles off idle at around 2k rpm and a load. Not running lean wideband looks good. The two Jeep fans plus the Novak radiator should keep her cool but I fear that is not the case. With the AC on it really struggles. Torq Sheep is doing a test for me on the true Jeep CFM rating once I have that I can see if it simply that the two Jeep fans aren't cutting it or it is something else. Bled the system multiple times, definitely no air in the system. Worked on getting the intake temps down, getting a custom intake shroud made, the test one pulled the AIT down about 50 degrees o I am hopeful. I am also having the factory front skid plate modified to work with the LS and I am also going to be replacing the stock crossmember with a beefier one. All for now.

Ran Core on two Comanches. Zero issues. Well made product.

I used the PRP Enduro's. Great seat with a ton of fabric options. I used them primarily so I could increase the rake and push them back as I am so tall. The stock seats don't have any thigh support for tall people.

SKF only quote the BR930040 bearing part no for 1986-1989 axles. After 1990 they quote BR930014 which goes from 1990 to 1999. They sure do look different, but might be dimensionally the same. I guess I need to order one of each to make sure. 1989 Bearing 1990 to 1999

Nice setup!!

You need to use 86-89 bearings with those knuckles. I used SKF BR930040. Later bearings won't center the caliper and rotor properly

Kristy. I mapped every pin on mine. Jeeps wiring color accuracy is pretty shut but it is a good reliable connector. I repurchased probably half the pins. When I get back from Bantam I will send you what I did. I have all the colors. My memory just isn't good enough to recall what I did.

Weathertech make one for the XJ that works great

I had exactly the same thing happen. It turned out that the wiring harness that feeds the distributor had a break in it. I would wiggle all the wiring that feeds the coil and distributor and see if the engine stops.

Here are some more images. The expansion block will make it extremely difficult to get enough play. The AC Evaporator is usually screwed into the heater body and there might be a thermostat wire in the core depending on the year.

The switch can be removed and the contacts got at pretty easily once you have the locking plate off

You are correct. Steering wheel, and the locking plate has to come off using a puller, then you can get to the switch

Not really. The evaporator is in the heater box which is held together with screws. Also the evaporator itself is probably held in with some screws. It might be possible if you pull the dash.

Welcome to the LS club!!

Yes please

No the actual liners that tuck into the fender flares.

Stupid money