Limeyjeeper

Novak has some great info on all the various pilot bushings and sizes. Finding pics of bushings is tough. They have all the measurements. https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/pilot-bushings/amc-ax15/

How is she (he) running?

I have bought a ton of stuff from them over the years. I think sometimes the shipping is slow because they have to order the part, even though they say it is in stock. Particularly Mopar OEM stuff. Can't comment on their customer service as I have never used it. However they are pretty liberal on their definition as to what years an item fits. Sometimes it is completely wrong.

I would go to the Corvette museum in Bowling Green,(a bit off course but a pretty impressive place even if you are not a Corvette lover). Wellborn MuscleCar Museum is really good. Out of your way a bit in Alexander City. Lane Motor Museum in Nashville has a bunch of quirky, mainly European vehicles.

I have always run Amsoil Z-Rod in my strokers. Has zddp in it too. Works well. 10w30.

All 4.0 engines including your 1988 have a 2 piece rear main seal. I would use a Victor Reinz seal part no 191006301. They improved the design a bit.

Rockauto.com. $46

Unlike the White Supremacists who are just sitting at home making lego White Houses. Really, I deal with this stuff everyday. Yes the left are instigating so are the white supremacist cops and others. This country is tearing itself apart and what is so sad is we condemn the Communist Chinese for cracking down on the Hong Kong people who just want justice and democracy but the images from this country look eerily similar. This is a lot more sinister and widespread than Antifa. This is becoming Germany in 1932. Same MO, deflection, find a bad guy to target, discredit the media (who are far from perfect) and watch how the sheep buy into it. It is a pity most of us have no clue about European history. If we actually read about the rise of Fascism in Germany, the signs are eerily similar.

I used a Carter P90011 pump. Fitted just fine.

Fighting through the wiring. Figuring out really quick how inaccurate Jeep wiring diagrams are. All LS wiring looks good. No voltages where they shouldn't be. Headlights, taillights, turn signals, backup lights, fogs, high beam all good. Brand new Standard Products headlight switch lasted about 8 hours. Got a Mopar one on order. Why do we think the Chinese can build anything that has even remotely good quality? Got an issue with the wipers. Only working on high speed. Gota be the delay module Instrument panel working well. All gauges except tach and speedometer working. Can't test those until I fire the motor. Interior lights coming on with headlights grrrr. Just gotta keep maintaining my patience. I will get to the bottom of every issue. It is just so time consuming. However with so much new and modified wiring I am not naive enough to think it would be perfect. I would just like to thank who ever invented the power probe. Pure genius.

I had to notch the hidden bumper mount. I still need to notch the Front bumper

I took a piece of 1/2 x 1/2 aluminum and cut one side in four places so I could bend it to contour the door frame. I then drilled holes to match the existing holes in the door frame. I used plastic retainers to hold the strip. At the top it is very tight so I clipped one side off the top of the retainer so the hole could be tight up against the bend on the aluminum angle. You need enough space for the back of the trim. Also because the retainers have a low profile it let's the seal sit down properly on the aluminum edge.

Another month and she will be running....Dealing with a $#!& load of electrical issues.

Cool I went 3.55 gears too.

This is very encouraging because the original reason I went LS was to get much better fuel mileage. Stroker's drink gas. I am lucky to get much more than 12-14mpg out of mine. What gear ratio are running?

Refurbished the wipers with a new motor and bushings and reinstalled them. Had to change the motor connector with a Deutsch connector as my harness and motor had different plugs. Also decided to upgrade the secondary door seals to the 97+ version. They are much more substantial and should help reduce the door pillar noise. Had to mount a 1/2 x 1/2 strip of aluminum on the A Pillar. Then mounted the seal. It is basically the same as the door seal. Front Clip is on. Just waiting on the "Jeep" sticker for the Front Clip from Spencer PRP seats in final installed position. Haven't fully locked in the dash in case I need to get to the harness. Engine fully buttoned up. Next job testing the wiring harness then exhaust. Once that is done she will be ready to fire up. Getting closer....

Or let Aeromotive rebuild it. Not sure what they would charge. https://aeromotive.us

I have a 91 and fitted a new Mopar one with no issues.

You need part no 6502112 armrest screw retainers. That holds the armrest to the door panel with a screw. They get worn and loose. Team Cherokee has them. About $4 for one armrest including the screw. Very common problem

Here is the parts page for the 97 XJ steering column. Not seeing that as a separate part. 1997 XJ Steering Column Parts.pdf

Need to get her on a dyno and see what that L33 is cranking out.!!

It is not for the faint of heart - trust me lol

I thought all the door pins did was ground the courtesy light circuit and the pre 91 door pins were only 2 pin? Why would it be 3 wires? I thought the pink wire on the top picture was the door switch as it is also on the courtesy light circuit shown?

I have a set from an 89 if you want them. Drivers side need the mounting bracket tack welding back on. Otherwise they work fine. Just pay shipping.

Great job. Ya beat me to it!! Sounds great. Exhaust looks really good. What did you end up paying for it?