dakal

I had an issue where my exhaust was touching the transmission cross member. You could try that. great idea :yes:

thanks, i'll pass it on

wow. its a miracle she came out relatively ok.

weirdness works #3 :clapping:

Don't squat when you're wearing spurs. :hijack: or save a trip to the doc if you're old

a more in depth check of the suspension would be in order. you need some to turn the wheel back and forth with you watching the suspension to see any play. let us know.

x2 to youall i gave the last thing i did, but my history: replaced track bar with adjustable one. had bad bushing replaced steering box. worn shaft bushing replaced pitman arm, wobbled on shaft replaced end bushing on steering shaft, bad bushing replaced bushing on passenger side of tie rod, bad bushing i have six 33in bfg's that i interchange. one of them that i put on the front passenger side wouldn't completely balance, and i found out the hard way that it would start the death wobble. kept looking. lower lca arms are RE ones. they were put on backwards. mounted them correctly. also, one johnnie joint was bad. replaced it. didn't like the look of the solid bushings, and at this time i was spooked, so replaced them. replaced uca arms frame side bushings, same reason as above. at this time of replacing the control arms i noticed the holes were rounded on the frame mounting points and the front attaching point of the uca to the axle. i made a bushing for each side of the uca and pressed them in. i then bought bolts that fit better than the old ones and installed them. lastly, my lca were at 45 degree angles instead of flat. so i had made long arms to correct this problem. finally i can say no more death wobble. the time line is spread over a two years. different things would work for a while, then back DW would come. a previous owner had some one put in a d44 from a chevy truck. the workmanship was klqjtjqo2t2!!! i wrote all this to say ,you might be fortunate. or you might have my luck. but it can be found and fixed! dave

try http://www.speedwaymotors.com/?CID=1386 ... gwodCketOQ they have lots of parts

mine ended up being the control arm bushing holes and or the bolts being worn.

putting a carb on is the easiest way. however go to this site to see if through a learning curve and work you can adjust your parameters anyway you want http://www.diyautotune.com/

go herwe and scroll down: http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm

i want to put a slider from the leaf spring hanger , under the pipe, than 90 degrees to the frame. so i am thinking about making the end of the exhaust more on a flat plane. but i like the looks of it now. sounds bitchin

yep mine to

thanks

the new cat is $90.00. i'll wait :yes: i'll take a pic tomorrow.

i just changed my exhaust. i routed it out the side. the one before this mess was totally rotted out. so i mixed and matched until i could figure out what i wanted. into cat 21/4, cat outlet 2 1/2 to muffler( 2 1/2),the rest of exhaust 2 1/4. the cat was on the mj as well as a couple lengths of exhaust pipe, i just put the rest on. also the cat was cleaned out. no cat on the new exhaust. its 2 1/4 throughout. the difference is amazing. more power and it runs smoother. dave so, staying 2 1/4 all the way works bettER.

Look to see if the frame rail where your bumper and steering box mounts is pushed back. The drivers side looks like it is pushed back compared to the passenger side. x2. you need new sway bar links. i can send you a pic off extra ones i have. yours look bent.

go for it. :brows:

good luck with the leak. i would replace with the fixed ones.

much better. what stitching program? interest here.

ahh great picture

1/8 load

yep

thanks

thanks. welded my new side exhaust up and put it on. :yes: