1989 Eliminator

I say check the body and engine mounted grounds. Upgrade the grounds is definatly a good idea as well.

Here is some pictures from my 1989 Manual...

My Tips: *put on mud flaps for your front tires! looks dumb but it saves the bottom of your side panels *Make a cup holder out of thick foam *upgrade your grounds! *If your truck isnt starting... replace the CPS with only a MOPAR not an auto store special *Put dielectric grease on all your electrical connections *Upgrade your brakes with a later year XJ brake booster *undercoat!!

Yeah I didnt do this either......... if the horn button starts to get loose and rattle, it just pulls off and then you tighten the three screws behind it.

Nice, I have been riding since I could walk as well. Right now I have a 2003 CR 250. Used to have a KTM 250 but she got riden long and hard!

I will have to ground down the rod on the 96 booster correct? when searching for the 96 booster I seen the picture and it had that flat spot on it like the MJ does

Can I use my 89 MJ master cylinder with a new 96 Cherokee brake booster?

The pulleys themselves could have some rubber residue on them. Scrap ot off or lightly sand it off but be careful not to put deep scraps in the pulley.

Follow Cruiser's tips... I had a similar problem and his tips fixed my problem. :D

I'm doing the same as above.... but don't you have to grind the rod for the brake switch still? besides that it should be a bolt on correct? I have an 89' MJ...

Just wondering who is a dirtbike rider like myself and if there are any members in Michigan that ride!

I Agree!! ^^ I'm doing the same thing as Pete said

I'm doing the same thing as you and what I'm going to do is lift it about 2" using coil spacers in the front and longer shakles in the back. This would give enough room for the tires and the lift won't be extreme so you will not need to get lower control arms or longer brake cables, etc...

Another big factor that happened with my no-start was bad grounds. Upgrade your grounds on the engine block and on the firewall.... Renix Ground Refreshing The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components. The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following: Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint. Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely. While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely. Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end. First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely. Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4” socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely. A suggestion regarding the braided cable: I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18” long with a 3/8” lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10” long with 3/8” terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115. For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely. If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.

For all of my electrical connections, I wire brush them a little, then use rubbing alchol. This does not harm the electronics and is a great cleaning solution. For hard to get places like the inside posts of relays, I use Q-tips with some alchol on it. After the alchol dries up, I dap some di-electric grease to keep the posts nice and clean from outside elements.

Make sure you use di-electric grease when installing them.... makes it a lot easier

I figured my issue out... I needed to take off the horn assembly becasue the horn cover (or whatever you call it to press the horn) was loose. All i needed to do was pull off that cover and tighten the three screws behind it for the bushing

So I am also thinking about replacing my 89' MJ brake booster with a dual diaphram one. Would a 95'-96' XJ brake booster work for me?

How do you take the steering wheel off?

Believe it or not I had the same problem and it was my steering stabilizer. It had bad bushings so it kept rotating and klunking.

There is a drain fitting at the bottom left side of the radiator (facing the front of the truck). So I take off my grill, about 6 screws, then I put a small hose that fits the diameter of that drain C#*@ fitting. I feed the hose through the bottom of the truck so it dangles down. Then I place a container for the fluid to drain into. It takes a few turns for the fluid to start flowing (Make sure you do not screw it all the way out). For a really good drain I actually start the truck while its still draining and keep filling the pressure bottle with a hose to have a continuous flow. I do this until the fluid becomes fairly clear. Then I let the hose water drain all the way and fill it back up with coolant.

My truck got mail! Nice touch with the address name! Jessica the Jeep! :laughin: My mail lady put a question mark by the name because she didnt know who tht was haha Thanks Pete! :thumbsup:

Okay because i know old transmissions had bolt on output shafts so i thought they could be changed. Also, is the front suspension all the same? Is there any other modifications i need to make to the front

Okay so I have a 2wd aw-4 and I'm wondering if i can change the output shaft to the 4wd trans. To my knowledge that is the only difference between 2wd and 4wd trans. Or do i have to get the 4wd trans...

Yup I have the short box. Is everything in pretty good shape and how much would ya want for it all?