1989 Eliminator

I have all that you will need at home (I'm at work) ill send you all the info later. :cheers:

Yeah I will defiantly post it when I get home. (at work) :typing:

Thanks for that diagram I was thinking the sensor tip was orientated 90 deg. from what the picture shows. Makes sense now.

Strange. :dunno: I actully checked the TPS output too using my Jeep manual. It turned out to be okay. Its random starts though not every time.

When you pull into the Jeep dealer near the sales dept.... walk away and come back with 10 employees surrounding it. :drool: :roll:

:hmm: Yeah I actually already did both of those things.. I'm thinking that the CPS adjustment or the connector plug going into the ICM from the CPS is a bad connection...

Also, sometimes when I first start up my truck its very weak. Usually it cranks then revs up for a sec and goes back to idle (normal). But sometimes it cranks and starts up staying at or lower than 500 rpm.

I read the CPS write-up but I still have a question on the CPS adjustment... the CPS form says to drill out the top mounting hole in the actual CPS and then push down on it while tightening it onto the bell housing. I'm not seeing how making the hole diameter bigger would make the CPS come closer to the flywheel. :dunno: I can see making the width of the bracket smaller would make sense for it to be set-in lower.

Question on the CPS adjustment... the CPS form says to drill out the top mounting hole in the actual CPS and then push down on it while tightening it onto the bell housing. I'm not seeing how making the hole diameter bigger would make the CPS come closer to the flywheel.

:agree: Okay that makes sense... but in that article it does say to make another wire going from the chassis to the manifold. Still keeping the one going from the head to the chassis..

I would check all your ground wires (side of the block under the sparkplugs there is a stud, and the firewall ground by the TPS) make sure there is no grease or oil. Also check for the CPS... here's a fourm...Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.

Will do. and I have a question about the form on the last page... it suggests to take a #4 gauge wire from the firewall to one of the bolts for the heat shield or fuel rail. This is because the stock braided wire is not enough but why can't I just go from the head to the heat shield/fuel rail? That would make more sense than going from the firewall (A more direct connection).

I cleaned all the grounds, added the two "upgraded" wires and I havent had any problems yet... :thumbsup: it happens randomly so hopefully it lasts.

Yeah I read the whole thing and it definatly is important. The possible cause could be because my original rubber valve cover gasket went bad, so i bought a new one but it was a cork one.. cheap and now I see why because there is a "mist" or glaze of oil down the whole side of my engine. Which then got on those ground wires. I'm trying to figure out a way to insulate those from the oil. (I'm going to buy a rubber gasket...$50!). Ill try heat shrink. :thumbsup:

The ground strap to the firewall is fine. Ill clean the stud on the engine though.

I mean I kind of did all of that already. I replaced the CPS and bought it from the Jeep dealer so its a quality Mopar part. I did all the di-electric grease on all of my connections about a month ago and made sure connections were good. Ill do the CPS/ICM plug once more and give it a better cleaning. Thanks for telling me about the pick-up coil. Time to get cleaning! :wrench:

I mean its been a few months since I replaced the CPS but I wouldnt guess for it to be dirty again... I suppose I could take it off and see what it looks like but after reading that link its possible for the actual plug for the CPS, that goes into the ICM, could have a bad connection.

it cranks strong and everything. I know I have fuel pressure. It is defiantly a ignition problem I cannot seem to diagnose. I made this post so maybe someone could give me a better idea so I don't waste my money on replacing everything for the ignition system. But thanks for the link.

Okay so I have done a lot of reading into this problem and I am still having a no-start issue. I have replaced the CPS (which is common and its a sensor from the dealer), new plugs, cords, distributor cap, ignition coil. But I am still having the same problem. :doh: I just ordered a ICM and hopefully this could solve it. But just wondering if there was anything else because ive tried everything. The only other thing to replace would be the pick-up coil and the actual distributor...

Yeah i kinda figured that would be the case. I'm not going to do big performance upgrades yet since I'm going to college, but a cam is defiantly going on in the future. and just a suggestion, I work for Mahle Engine performance and they have an aftermarket division and the make complete kits. pistons, rings, rods, cams and its all high quality. Check it out if ya want. you can't actually order from them though. Only from part distributors.

How did the 4wd conversion go? I plan on doing that to mine too and was wondering how extensive the work was.

Just wondering if Rustys throttle body spacer makes any significant difference in performance/gas mileage? Worth buying? and here are some pics of some red LEDS I put in my instrument panel!

kinda an old post but did you notice any significant difference with rustys throttle spacer?

yeah the rims I have on there now arnt too bad but I will def. get some meater tires and a small lift. :thumbsup: Thanks for the suggestions