JeepcoMJ

What he said. lol...dammit i have to fix that.

91 was the preliminary year. it used the RH pictured (longshaft) unit with the electronic sensor screwed on to it, instead of molded into it as the one on the left is. I believe that went until 93 or 94.

well that seems like it clears that up :D

well, I could build the cowl part for you and leave enough edge that you could rivet it on, or you can try to tac-weld it in, then do some grinding and smoothing. THAT anyone can do. all I'm doing is rollin gthe corners out and setting height. idk what price would be, $65 plus shipping or so? it'd be less than $25 to ship I'm sure

I think (not positive) the pickup assemblies (electronic or mechanical) are swappable on the housing. In his original pic, the one on the left was electronic. Mine's a 91 w. the electronic speedo and uses the long shaft gear. But Pete's way of just swapping the shafts will work fine. nope. that electronic sender is from a 93 or 94+ t-case it looks like, which are plastic and don't attach to the long shaft one or vice-versa. IF you look closely, you'll see that the long shaft one has the shaft offset. the reason for this is so you can clock it in depending on gear diameter. just turn it to one of the 4 positions, and it will work. again, use the ORIGINAL gear unless you've changed gear size.

yea it's completely bolt-in. the wiring is already there, you just need a factory switch, take the factory b-pillar out so you can finish routing the wiring up behind the headliner. the center hole is dead-center in the cab, and I believe a 3/8" hole.. 1/4" up from rubber window seal. easy to install, hard to find.

shipping from me would kill you, as it's not a business. the people I'm doing it for are local, and are all supplying the parts plus some time in making it, so I have no problem doing it that way. umm...so, I don't know what I'd charge. geonovast doesn't have one, that's just an example. maybe someone will chime in with the site to get them from, but I think they run about $300. if you had 2 hoods and some time, you can make one yourself (like I'm doing)

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums look in the classifieds :D

my 86 cherokee has one (and it's a 2.5 :nuts: 4.10 gears) ...I don't have any idea how that can be truth be told, but it is. and my 87 4.0 4wd sport had lsd rear. both dana 35's also my 89 comanche pioneer had one but that was a dana 44.

you guys haven't noticed... he doesn't have an electric speedo. he HAS to use the long shaft.

christ NO! in other words, the one that was IN YOUR TRUCK when you took it apart is the one you need, UNLESS you've lifted the truck and put larger-than-stock, in which case you need to order the correct one.

i don't remember that...

use the one that CAME from your vehicle. it should engage, I see no reason why it shouldn't. in case you don't know, the speedo gears were pretty much interchangeable. worse thing comes to worse, disassemble your tail housing from the old t-case and same on the new one, then swap the drivers out. and no, it won't be too long. stick the gears in both "mounts" (sensors) and compare them. they'll stick out the same lengths.

same way I do it. but... if you can slide the rail out, why not just disassemble both slide rails, and simply slide the comanche one in...seems like a no-weld method would be the way to go.. think that would work? I've never attempted to get those apart.

simply put the one that used to be in your truck into the new transfercase. as a quick answer, those are both from a 231 or 242 (or even newer 207) and are fully interchangeable. the one has a longer shaft because it needs to get that much further in order to engage with the speedometer cable

sad thing is, I know this to be true. we had an issue with a sanitary district, in which they sued us over 3 properties that my mother was selling...we won, after dumping close to 100k in attorney fees :headpop: i believe. then we went to sue them for the damages, and the judge looked right at her and said that, being that the government has NO obligation to be right, and that being a sanitary district, it fell under governmental control, and therefore there wasn't a damned thing we could do about it. THREE times. not one was correct, they just pushed papers without doing any research at all. what crap. so i see your point. but, a business owner can still sue back

RIGHT ON! frankly, I don't understand why business' don't resort to a sign saying "We are not responsible for anything resulting in damage to you or your vehicle, as a result of installation of tires that are larger than the maximum factory recommended size, BUT we WILL install them" it's as simple as putting a sign up. if you don't read the sign, and you have a tire failure or something of that nature resulting from your modifications to accomodate larger-than-stock tires, tough $#!&. your problem. and please, DO NOT tell me that this wouldn't suffice. I could die from the contents of a juicebox, but there are warning labels and ingredient contents. so, if I drink some juicy juice, and die, tough $#!&, i'm the dumb$#!& who didn't read it and figure out if I had any allergies to it's contents. the company wouldn't be responsible, nor would their insurance be responsible for covering the company's @$$.

that's my factory one.

no rotational force gets expanded and can cause symptoms at different speeds

what a bunch of crap. go to walmart they'll put 'em on

WHERE the HECK have you been? we NEED more info on this truck. there are some of us who are attempting the same build. PLEASE!!!

tire size doesn't count for lift. well, not legally. and I don't see lift height enforced in wisconsin at all. as for cowl, I'm settled on 2.5" for me. apparently TNT wants that, correy's pretty good with that too. sounds good :D

hey sorry for the thread jack. but, with home made beadlocks, do the rims have to be balanced out or something? I'd figure the welds could add a weight issue. unless of course you're not worried about it cause the truck isn't going to be daily driven...?

...I think I may habe been payed to take one.... :nuts: amen brother that's the unfortunate thing about it. a CLEAN body is the value. there are enough cherokees to build as many comanches as I want, so long as I have a clean MJ body to start with. honestly, the value of these trucks is the body, not the drivetrain. at least, that's the case in my opinion. ...my opinion may change a little if it's a 92 eliminator with full options (pl/pw, cruise, tilt, vent wing's, split rear, cargo lights, fogs, buckets) and 4x4 +dana 44 rear though :brows: and as Correy said, what's the powertrain?

bah. tire went flat in 7 days. went to fix that and move it today. now clutch doesn't disengage far enough...truck moves a bit even with pedal all the way down. i'm not happy. if it can go wrong with this truck, it seems it is doing so. it irritates me because I KNOW that I do a good job on this thing. anyways. i guess i'll fix that after i've got the cherokee buttoned up, while I put the np242 in the comanche. I traded my white truck cap to bullykatz for these longarms each has the larger RE superflex joints on both ends. I'll be removing the flex joints on the lower ends and going poly and adjustable on the lower ends. also, the upper arm supports need to be clocked inwards or they won't work properly. then build the upper L/A control arms (adjustable)then I just have to build my mounting system (bolt-on frame skid similar to TNT y-link, but more user-friendly). shouldn't cost me much to build this kit, and with the 6.5" RC coils and trackbar I'll be getting back from tim, and SOA, I'll be just fine with these.