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Everything posted by JeepcoMJ
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yea it sucks. i like the looks of the swb more, and the handling. BUT i don't see any of you being able to load an old chapparel snowmobile (8' long, easily 600lbs) in your swb with nothing hanging over the end.
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I'm gonna be making a few cowl hoods here soon, using 2 hoods to make one (only 1 seam to weld), and want to know what the typical cowl height is. I'm not too sure how high I want to go for the 3800. TNT, Beaterjeep, and Geonovast will each be recieving a cowl induction hood from me, and the hood height is their choice. I just don't know what I want yet. so, since I like just the typical height, can someone tell me how high their cowl is from the "stock" part of the hood? thanks -Pat
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:P I think I'm gonna be makin them stickers up. of course, THAT window is going on my wall after we help chop the cab (you know, if that's OK lol)
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New interior weekend! *NOW WITH PHOTOS!*
JeepcoMJ replied to joshmillslane's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
looks good. get Tecnique (from napa) Vinyl Semi-gloss vinyl paint/dye and spray it on the seat...the vinyl seat will absorb that, as it's what it's designed for. as for the headliner, you've apparently got it shifted to the passenger side. pop the trim back down and slide it over. did you have to cut the holes a bit to get the visors and such to fit into place? looks great though! glad to see someone else who tried it (and will love it I'm sure) -
never forget. and NEVER SURRENDER! JEEPCOMMMMMM!!!!!!! haha. sorry, i just watched braveheart. anyways, yea you won't forget it. i haven't...i had to STOP my trucks to get the wobble to stop, and hitting any small bumps brought it back. of course...my frame broke. you can see the weld I had to lay to cover it up...and the other cracks I hadn't done yet. and here's my repair that was the LAST thing I expected out of that truck...and it was the reason that it sat for almost 3 months, and also the reason that I finally finished a few things on it...
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yep. that's what that blocking plate is then. it was loose on my new motor and causing me to leak quite a bit of oil before... my motor came out of an 88. the motor that was in my 86 has the blockoff plate as well. if you need one, I can get you the plate.
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does it effect your handling (turning, forward movement) or does it feel like just a bucking sensation. is it a "oh $#!& i'm gonna die" or a "f8ck now what's broken" thing. it could be as simple as a motor mount or tranny mount if it's just kind of a bucking. only you will know what it feels like. describing it is hard. but, frankly, the only thing I can tell you is is it handling issues or no.
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well it depends. is it an engine sputtering type shape or a handling shake? i know not about the engine one, but handling issues such as death wobble are caused by loose and/or worn move-ables. "move-ables" are items such as ball joints, tie rod ends, ujoints, and wheel bearings. if any are worn down, it will shake. by the same token, loose bolts or nuts will also cause it. so, I can't tell you what your problem is. but I can say that you need to go over your entire steering system and front axle to check for loose parts. to check ball joints, stand facing the wheel well, grab the top of the wheel, and push and pull it. if it has large quantities of play then you may need new ones. this can also count as wheel bearing/hub assembly issues. don't be tricked in this test; the rubber on the wheels allows for small movement, so use your thinking ability to find a way to do this test while looking at the joints (think turn tires). if you can reach into the axleshaft ujoints (for 4wd models only) and shake the opposing ends of shafts with free play, you need new ujoints. bad ujoints are sufficient enough to cause DW too. bad tie rod ends (TRE's) could cause slop between any number of pieces in the drag link and tie rod assembly, as well as your trackbar. any slop will result in misalignment of parts, and could induce shake. loose trackbar mount bolts are a common culprit for DW as well (beaterjeep and geonovast have suffered this), so check the 4 up top on the mounting bracket, and the one down on the axle side of the trackbar. subsequently, the frame can also break at that location (not very common though I have experienced it...and induced the break) and cause these symptoms.
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yea i found that out. I just knew the wrangler had differences in years on stuff....and thought for some reason that 93 was the first year. guess not. thanks, I'm smarter now :D
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yes, i know that. but he's got a "91 wrangler" 4.0. I'm pretty certain that the first year for a 4.0 in the wrangler was 93 or so. which would mean, if he's got a 91 wrangler motor, it's a 4.2.
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no problem you have to swap over your intake and exhaust manifolds to work while you're at it, do a valve lap. $70 for a full gasket and seal kit too. wanna sell me your crankshaft and one good connecting rod?...I need them for my old 2.5 that was in my xj (which has an 88mj 2.5 in it)
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correct me if i'm wrong, but the 4.0 was NOT available until 93 in the wrangler from what I've seen.
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yep they're the same, but 84-85 I think had a provision for a mechanical fuel pump or something along those lines. it's easy to block off.
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second one is for a hood light (engine bay light) it's the power feed. the first one, i'm not sure. and do be honest, why don't you just go to the parts store and drop $10 into a matched set of connectors that are 12 or 14 gauge wires. you'll be happier and there's less chance of burnouts (both from the cut wires, and the high power running through the thin wire)
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Small block with stock drivetrain?
JeepcoMJ replied to MiNi Beast's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
total cost was $800 MAX to do the swap. don't you mean 3.4? if you'd done a 3.8 swap you'd have had to build motor mounts, exhaust, down-pipe, swap to a different header panel, custom intake, wiring. the works. the 3.4 is the same block as a 2.8. the 3800 is a 90 degree block with a 60 degree bellhousing pattern. my cost to build more hp than your 4.0 would reach would still be much less than yours, and with a higher net gain than yours. ...I get 19mpg in 4wd btw. 25mpg interstate, and a normal mpg of 22 or 23 mpg. anyways, that's off-topic, but every bit of it is true. -
Small block with stock drivetrain?
JeepcoMJ replied to MiNi Beast's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
you do know that my 3.8 outperforms your 4.0 in every way shape and form right? hp, torque, gas mileage, you name it. not to mention that for about $450 I can supercharge it with 14 pounds of boost. try and get that kind of performance and bang for buck out of your 4.0. come on, I dare you. I replaced a 2.8 with it btw -
cause the auto is sluggish. the only auto I'd swap in is an aw4. and yes, there is an aw4 available for a 4 cylinder.
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you'll regret every second of driving that thing after the fact.
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Small block with stock drivetrain?
JeepcoMJ replied to MiNi Beast's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I haven't done a v8 swap but my 96 camaro 3.8 swap, the power steering works just fine with new lines and the camaro power steering pump. it actually works better than stock. heats better than stock too...and I don't have any overheating problems with a 4.0 full core radiator. -
Yeah, me too. But I really want to try a Rokon someday. lmao nice i used to know a rokon dealer in Fox lake, illinois. fun machines
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and you must be naive to think that you're gonna find a nice body for cheaper than that, with the parts needed that your cherokee doesn't have, and get it built for cheaper than the cost of a truck like wahoosteeler's no offense at all, but you honestly won't find a mj with a good body, all the rear and lower interior trim, wiring from the cab on back, good tail lights, good cab corners, rear flares, rear window, cab vents, and comanche seat brackets for anything under that. frankly, you're asking ALOT out of a comanche. either way...you'll end up buying a piece of crap, or you'll have to shell out some cash and buy a nicer truck, with a lesser drivetrain than yours, OR buy a nice one with the same drivetrain. at that point, you may as well sell the cherokee and talk to someone like me who can find you a decent comanche. for instance, I know where a 1987 2wd shortbed 4.0 is sitting that I could get you for $600, that just needs some sanding and filling, and the typical wheel well problems, with 2 spots on the floor to be patched (really not too bad anywheres though). I also know where there is a 4wd 4.0 auto 1990 eliminator that I can have for $500 although cost to anyone else from the owner would be higher, and it just needs rockers and some rear flare work. in your expected price range you'll spend the difference on gas or you'll get a piece of $#!&. hornbrod, :D it's not hard-earned. It grows on my money tree... :nuts:
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1. splice the wiring together, or go to a parts store to get the correct pigtail (or matching set of pigtails to splice in) 2. your stock 21 spline wouldn't fit on an ax15, since they are 23 spline I believe. so, if your ax15 had a 21 spline that wouldn't make sense. 3. remove all of the vaccuum stuff, then just get some plugs for the sender on the t-case. that vacuum hosing ONLY pertains to the t-case and doesn't interconnect with the engine vacuum, so you won't suffer vacuum leaks. remember, the t-case vacuum stuff consists of colored hard hoses with rubber ends, and the metal hardline piece between them. so, only pull those ones
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For me simple,I wouldn't give a grand for any 4cy std shift MJ with any trim level. I don't care what it looks like. Thats me I want and automatic,4x4,4.0L if spending in that range or above Well that's great! Thanks for sharing that. yeah... manchedude, I won't (or I should say Don't since I'm good at finding them cheap) pay that much either. the most I ever payed for a comanche was 1300, and that was for the 89 that TNT now has (dana 44 rear, 4wd, new everything front and nice exhaust, bedcap, a/c, vent-wing, split rear, cruise (that works), 5 speed. other than that, the 3800 cost me (well my dad originally payed for it..) $300. steve's (my bro's) was $500 but it was running and driving with real nice bed. Dad's was $200 and it's a turbo diesel. I've gotten 2 for free, one for $150, one for $70, one for $250, one for $200, one for $50, and a few others too. but, if I found one with a CLEAN body, at this point, I'd pay $1000 for it if I had the cash. to me, a good body is worth the money. I couldn't care less about the drivetrain, there are plenty of donor's out there.
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more clutch/tranny problems
JeepcoMJ replied to undercoverwalrus's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
there is no reverse syncro. try bleeding your clutch again. -
I can get them. pm me for details
