JeepcoMJ

you'll have to oval out your shock mounts (the base plate that the ubolt goes through) to accept the wider diameter ubolts, and the 8.25's brake line also. other than that, you should be set. I'd replumb the brake lines while you're at it, and also check out the brakes. you'll need to reset your parking brake while you're doing this (loosen the cable, then reset once the drums are set) not a hard swap really.

NICE job so far! keep it up!

I have just the jeep in mind for that :D

from wi4x4.com http://www.break.com/index/wife_prank_c ... fires.html :chillin: :D

haha, not only that, but the upper rad line and both heater lines had gashes in them from blowing out. the power steering is also fixed now (leaking input shaft.....) and I just finished the job. now i gotta wash the motor and get all the damned anti-freeze off of it. in a couple days I'll toss the skid plate back on...had to take it off for this and it's a B*TCH to do so it stays off til i'm sure it's fixed.

upgraded power steering won't do a darned thing if the tires are too wide. I'm saying the tires will rub the control arms and swaybar. i.e. you won't be able to turn. sorry also, 35's are not a good size for your axles. well, at least your rear. about 31" is the max if you intend the rear (dana 35) to last. some get lucky with bigger, but if you upgrade tire size you WILL have to accompany it with a heavier duty axle. same for engine upgrades, I destroyed the my dana 35 on an interstate trip with no abuse. we counted the teeth as they fell out. that axle had some prior injury...but if my engine (3.8 camaro) were smaller, the axle wouldn't have been a problem. btw, my truck was the same as yours when I started.

so I'm replacing the t-stat on my 86 cherokee. the other day I let it sit and idle (an hour or so...i forgot about it) and come out to a sweet smell. leakin everywhere and blew a line. so, replacing all that, and I have a new water pump and t-stat for it anyways as well as heater lines. anyways, I get her all torn down and pop the housing off....no thermostat? I'll post pics. this thing was seriously running with no thermostat. no frickin wonder it was cold as hell. now let's see if the water pump still has the impeller :nuts: :rotfl2: psh. i'm sick of workin on these things...i just want somethin to go right for a change (so, unfortunately a brand new jeep won't do me any good either...POS's :roll: ) i'll post pics l8r

HHA don't look like your shocks are doin all that great of a job...or you weigh like 300 lbs lol. (no offense if ya do ;) )

OR! you could go read the THIRD POST down from the top in the tech forums, it's a sticky AND like the title says, it shows you how to get the hood open!!!!! :thwak: :rotfl2:

don't drive it. let it sit and idle driving it cools it, by allowing air to pass through the radiator. letting it sit, no air flows (or not very much). so, idle it. it'll take 40 min. or so on average (well, thats on my 3.8 but...)

don't be surprised when your "turn signals" don't blink. those are just side markers. 35" tires need somewhere around 7" of lift with no trimming, but can be fit as low as 3" of lift with trimming (alot). there though, you get into turning issues because in all honesty, you'll be hard pressed to find 35x10.50 tires, and anything wider won't let you turn if you stay low. the shocks you have are air shocks, and actually are quite nice. the "springs" he's talking about are the wierd shaped small ones above the top leaf. they'll wreck your leaf over time, and as the leaf sags, they can cut into the frame. so, ditch 'em cause they're crap. and, you may want an engine upgrade...the 3.4 chevy from 91-94 camaro and firebird are a bolt-in swap. just swap over some parts from the 2.8 (oil pan, exhaust manifolds) and get the wiring and engine computer, and you can swap up to fuel injection. then though, you need an electric fuel pump...the 2.8 has one on the block.

:D looks great correy!

:eek: :oops: uh...my temp gauge isn't working. where is the ECU temp sensor? my cherokee isn't running quite right, it's probably an easy fix (and I have at least one spare of every sensor I'm sure) so maybe that would help. thanks

so, what does this sensor do?

scored another (nicer) cargo light today so I'll be replacing mine with this. I also got the switch panel, but gave it to TNT since I figured he'd want it, and I use cherokee switch panels painted black so I don't need it. anyways, either TNT will end up with the spare one, or I'll be putting it in another of my trucks. and, the truck they came off of I'm going to buy. 1986 comanche 4 cylinder 5 speed amc20 rear axle, 4.10 gears and factory split rear. so I will be getting my moeny's worth I think. I love a good day's work :D

I don't think it has to do with intelligence. well, in a way it does; common sense that is what makes a good driver vs. a bad driver.

I loved them, they didn't wear quickly (20,000 on mine and they look new) BUT i couldn't climb up a steep dusty slope with them (40 foot high over 20 foot distance). my friend with his cherokee walked right up him with his apache A/T's (bfg A/T knock off). they did fine in mud. honestly though, where are you getting them? they don't make them anymore.

you know...i think they used the complete skin from the front door, with the "pillar" pieces from the rear door, and welded the behind portions together it's got a comanche cab corner, and I almost wonder if he took what was left of the xj wheel wells and used them as storage? that would be cool.. I don't like that thing, it's as long as a limo. with a 5' long bed that would be nice.

Are you sure? How do you explain the rear does that aren't cut for the rear wheel wells like on a Cherokee? How exactly were those doors made? they were made by combining a front door and a rear door (readily available parts on any cherokee). as for it being a 97+, I don't think so. note that the front doors are still 2 piece windows (have small triangle window). doing that backwards swap is tough and time-consuming. I bet it's a cherokee, just not a 97-01 body.

i have no idea.

I think once I do a couple cowls (I'll be building a jig for it and simply bendingthe edges), it shouldn't cost me much time to make them. just to be clear, I could do just the cowl for that. a complete hood I'd want between $150 and $200 for it depending on time involved in it. -Pat

NO! do you have a 4wd transmission? I sure hope so, because you're gonna be sorely disapointed when you figure out you can't bolt the t-case up to the 2wd case (output shaft and tail housing is different) so, you need a complete transmission. at which point you should be looking for a complete cherokee with the correct transmission for a good deal...that would be cheaper and give you everything you need. -Pat

what motor is it? I have a brand new, zero miles but previously installed fuel pump (junked the truck so I could build the 3800 to 4wd with the parts). -Pat

the unaffected hardly remember such incidents. :roll:

... sadly I'm probably gonna be the most hated person on here. I've sent 9 comanches to their graves, robbed of all dignity (and parts). and I've had one of every year from 86 to 90. no 91's or 92's.