JeepcoMJ

Axle tube thickness should be the same on d35, so you shouldn't need to open up the center hole on dizc backing plates. Identical other than that to a d44 swap

12" 3/8" extension with a shallow 3/8" drive 9/16" socket and several different lengths of ratchets. Never done it the way you want to...my way works well with no issues. Tighten center exhaust bolt and rear bolt for it before putting intake on, and your troubles should be over. My complaint is driver rear head bolt on the newer 12 point head bolts...stupid stud on top negates the ability to fit any socket of any sort along with a torque wrench in there because of the firewall pinch weld being in the way.

You cannot weld them to the sheetmetal, you need spreader plates to take the load. The frame rails are 2 and 3 layers of sheetmetal and cannot take the load. Best bet would be to plate frame if you want to weld. You also need to have vertical tie ins to go into the pinch weld on the rockers, or one good hit and they are toast.

The front is closed knuckle. Not a bug deal

Renix didn't have. MPFI...it was tbi.

Godsend. I didn't know someone had made these...been kicking around the idea forever of making my own.

Like the wagon, the flyer is cool...I would research the bantam before touching it. That could be some good value in original form

Two choices. Convert back to proper dash, or convert to 97 up ignition, full harness, engine, trans.

I have sold all my waggy grilles for $250 no less, so you aren't too far off.

Teamcherokee.com has complete new dashes for fairly cheap

Fuel pressure tester, test pressure inline by cycling key and pump. Then hop out and see how quick it bleeds down. If gone immediately, I suspect your injector is stuck partially open and not allowing it to give correct amt of gas on cold startup. Could be compression so that should be checked too.

Gear ratios are a generalization, and that should be said. In fact, I have had more 4 cyl 5 speed have 3.55 than 4.10

Glovebox is part of the dash, so yes that piece has to come out, but so does everything else as you have to remove the entire thing

I would follow his advice. My method works, but like he said, laminate seperation.

Winnebago lesharo of specific years only as far as domestics go. And Cherokees.

How do you like the gentex? I need backup camera for plowing...that is the main thing. Factory tint is too dark even with led backups, and you know I don't like adding lights on.

The jk head unit is one hell of a lot better than the one available from 02 to 04....it is a joke. 1.5 din are junk.

There are many variations in strength of the t5.

Not a problem. I'm not as lucky as you...have yet to own a vehicle for more than a few weeks with light colored interior, and every one I have bought has had the rear view simply fall off on the hottest day of summer. If you're not in a hurry, that works too...on old windshields. I assume the new mirror has map lights? Just ordered a garmin compatible auto dimming rear view with built in gps. The factory nav system that I could put in place of my head unit is a joke...have to put the nav disc in to use it, making the cd and dvd useless if driving distance, which is what I would need it for. Guess I will be going through the same thing you are, except with a new windshield install at the same time.

So, would an MJ collectors coin fit in that hole? Just saying...

Heat gun and smooth thick scraper...almost a putty knife.start by heating outside until too hot to touch more than a moment, then go inside and heat the metal. Should pop right off. Be careful you don't heat over 250 degrees or you will separate the laminate

Only uppers or lowers are on at a given point in time...hi and low. No factory wiring for both at once.

Why bother at this point. We know whats in it. You should do that before you purchase something, not simply assume that a guideline is unarguable fact.

you know I own my own business. Most of my sales are online. I rebuild hydraulic snow plow pumps for a living. a good majority of what I do so is actually the service to rebuild their pumps. unfortunately a lot of my customers just look at the listings see wa pretty pump, and buy it without so much is reading the description. they get the confirmation email with directions on how to pack and where to ship, and flat ignore it. 2 weeks later, I have a case open against me for item not received, or worse yet a chargeback case because people don't know how to use PayPal or eBay. somehow they think they're getting a $1000 pump for $400 its brand new rebuilt. And somehow it is my fault that they cannot read. They actually argue with me on what they bought, even though it states point blank 9+ times in the listing what it is. I have a $100 non refundable restocking fee. Period end of story, don't read and you lose the money for my hassle. I hate stupid people. Worse is that they are more lazy than stupid

engine specs are guidelines for gear ratio not a guarantee this is AMC were talking about. you got hosed if you thought you're getting 4.11s. And it's a Dana 35 so worthless anyways. The Dakota rear is stronger. Go buy new gears, the search for years 4.11is never ending. Only once have I had a factory 4.11 d44...& I have owned 29 mjs