JeepcoMJ

Remember a couple of things; An Renix era 4.0 will run in "open loop" mode (a.k.a. factory computer defaults for sensors such as o2 sensors) with a failed o2 sensor. exhaust manifold cracks can help cause the o2 sensors to burn out, and the result can sometimes be that it runs *better* than before with a cracked manifold. It's possible that that is not-so for the coolant temp sensor. I do not recall if there are two or just one on the renix 4 cyl's. I've googled the pics and looked at several engine bays from 80's 2.5's, and it looks like they don't. The Renix 4.0's *do* in some instances (auxillary fan), but the only one that has a primary use directed to the ECM and gauge cluster, IIRC, is the rearward one on the head. The rearward sensor on the head can be one of two; one for dummy/idiot gauges, and one for full gauges. It's possible that there is a safety function the ECM reads off of that to keep it running right, but not likely. Because there are two different sensors with two different gauges available, I do not think that that sensor failing or not can affect how the engine runs.

Welcome! You will want to look at Darren's (went by goblazers at one point, then darren, and I think back to goblazers) lowered MJ. In spite of his...antics....he did a very good job on lowering it. I'm all for street trucks as well as wheelers, so welcome to the forum, and please post pics!

Well put

I appreciate when members like yourself even though have little to gain in terms of your own Jeep, offer your knowledge to us noobs. This site has helped me turn my oil-drippin, gas drinking, brake light-less '87 into a smooth running daily driver. I have long ways to go, but now I am getting into the fun part; no longer worried about getting from point A to B. Thanks again to all the members who feed the noobs. We can be a pain, but I hope you gain satisfaction in knowing more Comanches remain on the road as a result. Hey, I like helping you guys out. It can be a bother seeing the same thread topic 4 times in one day, but in the end, it's fun to watch people learn. Just not fun to have people push buttons or offer information as fact when it is pure speculation.

I think the honest answer is that they are worth what someone will pay. You'll see them low priced all over, and high priced all over. There seldom seems to be a middle ground regarding these. to some, they're a collector's car or wheeler. to others, they're scrap metal

making a statement back to someone I don't like, glundblad. not directed to everyone else.

I am beyond needing most people's help on these trucks....there isn't much I haven't done to them, and there is nothing on them that I cannot do or fix. Not trying to be arrogant, just being honest So I doubt I will need anything more from you. I hope you can benefit others.

Last one. You are not going to reply to me, I am not going to reply to you. We don't agree on many things, and while I'm sure you have a vast amount of experience (and ARE very knowledgable), you do not compare in regards to history with MJ's. These have been my lifeblood. I do not believe there is a single person on the forum who has owned more than me, or sent more to the crusher after saving as many MJ specific parts possible.

one of the first things I do to every vehicle I buy; coolant flush, water pump replacement, thermostat replacement. Not out of necessity, but out of peace of mind. The cooling system cannot operate properly if there are leaks.

thanks. I've done the latter, and don't need to do the former. My reading comprehension is above and beyond that of most people.

The absurdity of some of your outlandish statements leave a lot unsaid, and a lot implied. You need to work on that.

Well I'm sure some of you know that I pretty much threw everything MJ out the window awhile back. With the sad state of repair on my 86, the 3800, due more to a terrible paint job and body work and my own irrational driving behavior at the time, I stripped everything that made the truck what it is, and scrapped the shell. It would have needed doors, floors, bed, hood, fenders, grille, flares, and some interior work...much less fixing the crank in the buick 3800 I dropped in it, or converting the trans over from ax5 to ax15. My brother's truck was in no better condition, needing a lot of work, but at least being all there. In the end, I just stopped worrying about it. The space was more necessary than the headache of repairing either truck, so I focused on starting my own business instead. As it is, I'm doing very well...I rebuild Meyer snow plow pumps. nothing more, nothing less, at better prices than most places, including more. It's taken off cross-country for me with the amount of mail order rebuilds I've had. With all of that in mind, it's time to look at the long haul. I need a truck again. While I could go out and buy a "cheap" fullsize...I don't know them like the back of my hand. And, frankly, I would only want an 06 duramax club cab longbed with the works for interior and exterior. To the tune of $40k or better...no thanks. I don't tow enough heavy things to need that right now. So, the search has begun. As my business is a winter business, I will have "summer projects". This summer, rebuild two MJ's to perfection, just in time to put them away for the winter. I'm more excited for this than I have been for quite some time. It should be interesting. MJ #1 Bro's 88 pioneer MT LWB 4x4 4.0 stroked to 4.6, convert to external slave ax15 and nv242 power everything, split rear rebuild body. It's at 3.5" lift and 32" tires. Color scheme: burgundy/maroon metal flake with grey pioneer stripes, grey leather interior. MJ#2 86? MJ chassis (unsure, will take what I get that is rust free) LWB and 4x4. 1996 buick 3800 V6 mated to AX15 with Dakota bell (modified for starter on driver's side) new body. Eggshell white with black accents and interior. 3" lift with 31x10.50's. Once I find the new bodies, projects will begin.

In the end, on the subject, the removable tow mirrors do work. But are a complete pain in the butt. My 02 KJ has side fold 03 dodge ram power/heated mirrors on it for this reason, but to this date, there isn't a good (or aesthetically pleasing) solution for our MJ's. In the end, they weren't made to pull a huge enclosed trailer, and it really is ill-advised to tow another vehicle with them as they are not big enough for anything but a featherlite car trailer or a tow dolly, and trailer brakes would be a necessity. It can be done, but should be done with care.

And that's a good way to put it. Much better than claiming credit or knowledge with nothing to back it up.

Well, not seeing your credentials or any factual evidence, I doubt it was you, Sir.

the lower radiator hose connects to the water pump on the block side. Safe assumption that it's not the hose, but is either a bad gasket on the water pump to block seal surface, bad seal on the water pump housing, or corrosion/malformed water pump housing on the sealing surface for the hose.

so we've all been doing it wrong all these years? pffft. I've towed more MJ's, XJ's, KJ's, and whatnot home with my MJ than I can shake a stick at. and all by just doing something as simple as putting 97+ xj mirrors on. plenty big to see. Mirrors are great for towing, but you can make do with factory equipment.

that is all

nah. I don't want one with more than 3", and I want to install what I want for it, with my two MJ's being the engine donors for the project.

Yup. Well, the reason I'm so anal on zero rust is, once the rust starts, there's no stopping it....and I don't intend to rebuild the trucks any time soon once they are done this time throough.

well there you go. then you have no reason to be complaining about parking brakes as this is NOT a safety recall or general failure or defect in your system, but simple need of a break job.

Yup. I've put it there. Just stating my value on a rust free one. Same truck, running, 3k max. I'd rather build one with a bad motor than buy one that someone else has worked on.

I would pay up to $2000 for a rust free, non-running comanche.

In no way, shape, or form, have I said that any recall doesn't apply to the 1986 model year. it does, but DOES NOT extend beyond that. The argument here is that the recall applies EXACTLY AND EXPLICITLY to that model year, and nothing more. A worn out, 20-some year old part due to neglect or over-use is in NO WAY, SHAPE, OR FORM a defect for which Chrysler is responsible. All of you who don't have an 86, quit your whining and do something to fix it. People on the site have good spare parking brakes for cheap, reasonable prices, besides me. You want it fixed, buy one or fix yours. Anything beyond that, well....you are asking for too much for free on something that is OLD. Parts break. If you think Chrysler is responsible for the brake pedal wearing, you are wrong. It's past it's warranty coverage due to age inevitably and mileage in most cases. You wouldn't get Chrysler to replace the e-brake assembly or parts on a 10 year old Cummins, either. It is simply and factually beyond it's coverage and any liability by them. If you have an 87-92 with a bad parking brake, and think they should replace it for free, you are nuts. That's like expecting them to replace the rotten floorboards because they didn't hold up to the salt, or the motor because the previous owner beat on it and it broke. I could come up with a million anecdotes for the situation at hand. Any statement that you are deserving of free parts is a misunderstanding and misrepresentation of the facts.

toppers don't mean you put passengers in the bed. That's silly. that exhaust would meet code. But. to put a tank on the passenger side, your tank would have to be a fuel cell or smaller tank, so that you would have the room for the elbows and up-turns needed in order to get the exhaust up and over the top of the frame rail to come out in that location. You would also need heat shielding. no matter the way you cut it, if you do choose to put the tank on the passenger side, you are opening yourself to a whole lot more work than hanging one in the rear, or putting one in the bed. I didn't say it can't be done, I implied it can't be done cleanly or reasonably, or cheaply, as the title suggests. Even doing the work yourself, you will have more time involved than just fixing the fuel tank, staying with one tank, or mounting one in the rear.