JeepcoMJ

They don't have to run or have a motor. or interior. $2000 or less Complete or not. I'd like them to be complete exterior-wise less some trim or bumpers, but ZERO RUST is a necessity. Interiors will be black on one and gray on another when I'm done, so I do not care what they have in them now. NO DENTS OR RUST in cab or beds. I don't want it if it's got rusty floor boards. These will be the new bodies for my brother's 88 pioneer and my 3800 buick v6 powered MJ. MUST be longbed. I passed on two nice shortbeds locally. I will make the trip in an 06 Dmax with 40 foot gooseneck with winch. Don't care about tires, gears, original equipment. Must roll. I am NOT going towards the East coast for these. will not be driving through West Virginia. Looking to head straight south from WI, or straight southwest. Up to $2000 each, depending on condition. Can't stress enough zero rust. I'm sick of rust, and I'm not going to be rebuilding them again in 10 years. They will not be seeing salt when I'm done with them. Thanks, Pat

Good price. If I had the time to come get it, I would...too busy with winter here now, but good luck with the sale!

these trucks are unibody. I know what you're actually going to be doing, but for sake of argument, the theory of what you're asking is ineffective as you'd have to swap all parts over to new unibody.

people wanted the room to fit family without being huge. And no way, screw any diesel that came out of a chevy, except the dmax.

Donated $20.

A few things here guys. The truck was well undercoated. The frame itself is intact and fine. The rockers, cab corners, floors, doors, bed, fenders, hood, header panel, windshield are all JUNK. That is why I say "about to break in half" The brakes are $#!&. We bought it with 101k miles on it and drove it to where it sits now, up over 260k. We put a set of brakes on it when we bought it. That's it. Brake lines to rear are very rotten, but fuel lines are good yet. That Renault 2.1l tows just fine, and will handle everything you can throw at a 4.0. Don't let the hp rating fool you, torque is what gets you going, and it's got more of that than a 258 straight 6. They are peppy. I'm only bothered about this truck because I spent the last year getting over letting it go. I learned to drive on that truck, and took my driver's test in it. One of under 40 in the continental U.S.

His buy it now is less than what he has into it, plus he drove from long island to WI to pick it up.

And, since it's an 86, it has an AMC20 NOT a D44. 4.11 gears front and rear.

Just realize this. The ONLY reason we sold it to that guy is that the frame is about ready to rot in half. The brakes are junk. it is NOT a repairable truck. You are buying it for parts to use in another chassis.

If you can't fix it correctly, you are going to spend more time to do it wrong than it will take to just do it right. This is about as good of an idea as how most "custom" DIY radio install people install their stereos....with wires twisted together and taped. The push button ignition has merit, if you were going to do a NICE job of it and do it along the lines of newer cars with their RKE signal that enables the all-in-one push button starter. The setup you have is going to make painfully obvious to people that the key is disabled, and is as simple as flipping a switch.

4th, you apparently like to fix things the incorrect way, with cheap parts. That sounds pretty...unfavorable...to me.

Maybe you've missed the cue, but most competition offroad rigs are now IFS. You can get ALOT more out of them. BTW, how about articulation while maintaining full tread contact? Solid axles can't do that.

There is ZERO upgrade here. There is "EZ THEFT" here. Regardless of what you intend to use the vehicle for, you have now made WAY more work for yourself. You have also negatively affected resale value of your truck. There aren't many people out there who would be willing to buy some hack's wiring nightmare. Send the switch assembly back. Go and buy the $13 saginaw steering wheel lock plate tool and a 3 jaw puller (both of which will come in useful more than once), and go to the junkyard, pull an ignition switch tumbler from a parts car, and put it in yours. check youtube for a how to and you will come out ahead of the game. You'll also be able to pre-emptively strike @ the common tilt column wobble, if you have tilt, since you're in there. I nominate this idea as the Worst Jeep Mod Ever

Well stated Pat. :thumbsup: Thanks. I love MJ's, I tolerate XJ's, but they just do not compare to the ride quality of a KJ with IFS I personally would have no use for a wrangler unless it had independent suspension. I'd rather use it as a convertible that looks cool and build a buggy or another throwaway xj trail rig...which, if I built a buggy...guess what? It would have IFS.

That was no insult to you guys with money who buy new cars here and there. That was definitely a slight to the people who piss and moan about the "new jeep IFS" and have no intention of buying new anyways, much less the income to afford it. Which seems to be most jeepers, or a good percentage of the people on forums. I agree with Don's definition of a "true jeeper", just saying that most people who know how to turn a wrench aren't in a position to buy a vehicle straight off the lot, so your opinions just do not matter, because you won't affect the sales either way of those vehicles.

I feel they're not going to "lose" any customers. Anyone buying a NEW vehicle is NOT a jeeper. Tell us honestly when the last time 99% of "true" jeep owners bought a brand new, off the line jeep. that number will be minimal next to what they will actually sell to oh, you know, everyone else.

The jeep we know and love is dead. Oh well. It's about time to just let it be.

Its the.difference of layers in the kj uniframe...5 or more different thaped layers in all structural parts compared to 2 or 3 at best in an xj

You know what? Screw it. IFS rides better. You want a wheeler, swap it to SA, or buy something older. Not everything has to be an offroad vehicle

My brother's 02 after it rolled twice at 35+ MPH How it looked before the rollover He has epillepsy, and had a seizure (degrading condition, now he no longer drives). went down a ditch, came out of it, up over the road, endo, roll twice over the right front to back rear quarter, landed on the side. Cab was perfectly square. it bent the driver front A pillar section of the door, but left the cab alone. I took measurements off of the new body for it, all 5 doors still opened correctly. Technically it just needed both quarter panels, both front doors (wrecked skins) some body work on rear doors to put the handles back out, a new passenger front inner fender, bumper support, hood, front clip. But we found a Limited and swapped everything over, motor and all. These things are tough.

It didnt blow. But the chrysler tech failed to diagnose...well, anything, and aimply disssembled the motor to scratch his head, and lost the deck specific head gasket. Owner just wants a warranty on motor, so we are installing new

already have them. 81 srx restoration 92 vmax 4 prototype sled (yes, pre-production only known in existence) for a collector 06 liberty CRD (5x figure job that came in saturday). bad motor, direct replacement with mopar reman (bolt-in plus setting timing) plus an average of 10 Meyer pumps every two weeks. I do well enough, there are down times when I entertain projects, like I did with this guy. Well, I think I just need to get more money in the bank...this last year I finished paying off school loans, so finally that should be easy enough.

Quick background. Local "scrapper" has and I have been doing business for a year or so on Meyer snowplow pumps when he gets them in on junk trucks. I refurbish those for a living. He thinks they're gold, and I do pay higher prices for them than I do from junkyards, craigslist, or core exchange back to me...That is a sore spot, but he will pull the guilt trip crap to get me to pay what he thinks they're worth. Fine. I'm not a pushy guy anymore, and I'm still making money. Fast forward to about 2 months ago. I went over and picked up a plow pump from him, and he had a 96 mercury sable sitting there. Nice little car, 116000 miles, but half the interior fuse panel is dead. Says he's gonna scrap it. Well, I like electrical, so I tell him "Running, driving car is worth $1500. I can fix it." And I do. took me two hours, I removed fuse box and circuit plates in it, trailed back the source for that half of the fuse panel, locate the wire that is the issue in the engine fuse box, trace it back to the driver inner fender, remove inner fender, locate a hard 90 plastic shroud that is wet, and trail power with my volt meter to that shroud, but not from it. Locate the corroded/burst/swollen part exactly in that 90, solder it and heat shrink, problem solved. I get half profit past $600 in scrap value, once it sells. I did the job in 2 hours, the previous mechanic took 9 and didn't find the (common sense to me) issue. Then he's got a rusty POS trailblazer. Runs great, exhaust leak, 225000 miles, busted front diff with half shafts remove...making it 2x4 instead of 4x4. Problem was, it was charging, but would drain a new battery down to zero in under 20 minutes. Trailed that to the with ohm and voltmeter to diodes in the alternator, they were "leaking" causing it to backfeed and magnetize the alternator. couple that with a bad starter solenoid that was grounding positive, and corroded terminals, and I figure out and figure out that issue. Vehicle isn't worth $1200 fixed, is worth $800 to junkyard/scrap, so no value in replacing the alternator at $140, plus exhaust manifold (cracked) valued at the difference. Cut his and my losses by telling him to sell it as-is, or scrap it. If he's not making money, I'm not making money. I removed the Western Suburbanite body side plow brackets, harness, light isolation module, so we can at least profit 50/50 on that. Dandy. In the middle of this, he didn't bother listing the sable, I'm waiting on that for $, he buys a Meyer plow pump for $50 @ a rummage sale, holds it ransom over me for my half of the value of the sable. Not a fair trade, given the potential value of the car, but I'm a week into this, and want to wash my hands of it. I hate having things in limbo. So I take the pump, wash my hands of the car. Then, he needs me to ride with after picking up the pump to look at a chevy diesel plow truck 5 minutes away. "it will take 15 minutes and I'll have you back". OK. I had things to do that day...a friend was back in town for another friend's funeral, and had to pick up his car from said passed on friend's house, replace the starter (00 ford focus 2.0), replace the brakes, and make ship-shape for the drive back to tennessee on Saturday. 4 hours later, I got home. He haggled with the guy and had a buddy come pick it up, I had to wait for that and help load. Here's my next mistake. I agreed to take on a project, provided he could get it here wednesday, so I can get it apart before the "new" motor arrives on Thursday. '00 F150 4x4 ext. cab with a bad 4.6l in it. He said "motor is bad" and "my guy can do it in 10 hours". I say "alright, I'll see what I can do." Look up book time, 17.8 hours, plus 1.2 hours for a/c and 2 more for the fact that it's 4x4. Dealerships do it by lifting the cab because the cowl covers roughly half the engine, and the core support is part of the body, not removable. BUT it can be pulled from the top, just a bit more finesse. Well, Wednesday comes and goes, I wait on another project (81 yamaha SRX restoration) because it's too nice to get scratched and is better staying in dry storage until this truck is done. That project is a considerably better pay-out than his, but he needs it done, and money is money. Thursday comes, I say "bright and early"....I'm in the shop by 7 most days, so "early" means 9, latest. He calls at 4pm wanting to drop off the motor...I'm at swim practice, can't do anything for him. He drops off at 6pm, get it in the shop, doesn't bring the truck with. WTF. At that point, I should have said "take the motor and the truck to someone else". But, I didn't. Shame on me. Tell him "need truck by 9am tomorrow, I have ANOTHER project coming in on saturday that pays off 5x more than you want to pay me". Truck gets to me at 1:45pm Friday...I have practice at 2pm (high school swim coach) for setup so we can start on time. Great. He's going out of town over the weekend. I screwed up royally by saying I would do the job. He screwed up royally by not telling me that the motor is locked up tight. It's an automatic, the core support to cowl lip distance is just big enough for the motor...not the motor with the torque converter still attached. Trans isn't coming out...If I so much as looked at the crossmember bolts funny, they'd break. There is no room with the differential in the way to reach up to unbolt the torque converter after sliding the motor forward a bit, and you can't go far enough forward with trans in vehicle to get at the torque converter bolts from all sides of the flywheel. Bottom line, cab has to come up, but the mounts are rusted solid and going to snap if removed. He wants to pay me 10 hours straight time, and no more. I tell him book time, he ups it to 15 hours, still 7 hours shy of book time. Having to take the cab off and fix all the rusty bolts that break on removable will make this a 30+ hour job. Local dealership tech advises against doing the job at all, says it would be a total loss, no profit to be made. Local "do all" legit mechanic shop (friend of mine) says "I won't touch one for exactly the reason that alldata is 15 hours shy of book time on what it actually takes to do". So after looking @ the truck, considering his complete lack of consideration for the value of other people's time, and the two jobs that are 4 figure jobs that I already have waiting, I decided to make a call. I called him and told him that he can either be pissed at me for going over his budgeted time that HE decided on, and demanding the bill be paid, or he can be pissed at me for not doing the job and telling him to take it to his "10 hour guy". Pick one. He was furious, told me how inconsiderate of his time I was, told me that I have not proven myself to him and that I'm turning it down because I don't have the skills to do it. Done. Told him to pack his sh*t up and get it out of my shop. He came and got it, pushed, pushed, pushed to get it done, upped his timeframe to 30 hours, told me I wasn't thinking realistically, and demanded that I give him the western suburbanite parts...no way, jose. I have 9 hours into the truck to get it to the point where I told him he had two options, and back together for him to pick up, plus 9 hours into the trailblazer that I ate, plus the two hours in the sable that I really didn't make the agreed upon money from. He can have half of the plow once I sell it, or he can pay me $200 for my half, and call it good. I made very many mistakes being involved with his shtuff, but it doesn't seem to me that continuing to do so is worth my time. Sorry, had to vent.

2wd and 4wd do not matter. they are identical chassis. the cab and frame are a uniframe construction, so they are mated. shortening the wheelbase on the back frame section is easy enough.

Another good point, Don. Lord knows we'd be spending the money better on welfare drug testing than giving millions to syrian rebels (al'queda). Me, I think that no matter what way we go about it, this country is so far in the sh*thouse with debt that we just can't keep going on the way we are.