JeepcoMJ

LOL....... clearly you haven't read this entire thread. Emissions. It'll be required to have an evap canister, cat converter(s), possibly an EGR valve...... that kinda thing. If the original truck had it, the modified version has to have it as well. Secondly, carbureators are the suck. Especially out here where elevation changes are common just driving across the state. The diesel engine really turns me off in such a small truck. The noise in particular. Those 4BT Cummins engins sound like a friggin' farm tractor and while torque monsters, move the truck like a turtle for daily driving. No thanks. A nice, powerful fuel injected V8 with an overdrive transmission........ :thumbsup: My buick 3800 swap is an EGR and emissions delete. charcoal canister still present, NoX catalytic converter, missing post cat o2 sensor. 96 motor in 86 chassis. Passed state visual inspection in that form, as the new motor more than surpasses the emissions of the 86 model year 2.8l, and passed sniffer tests with better than 96 expectations. The only real worry with an engine swap is that it is not legal in most states to install a motor from an older model year than the vehicle.

You are not correct on most of this. An AMC 360 can get 20mpg in a fullsize j-truck with quadra-track. All it takes is a torquer cam and a PROPERLY tuned carb. Yes it can/will cut out on inclines, but that's ALL carb'd motors, even those with special floats to avoid that issue. I have done it. If you look at simple laws of physics, with that being possible, power to weight states VERY simply that you WILL increase mpg with that motor in a lighter vehicle. I have a buddy with a 360 in his javelin and j-truck getting 19mpg when he's light on the throttle. And that is the key point here. ANY motor will get crap mileage when you peg the gas pedal all the time. My crown vic got 19mpg with a 5.0 in it. I drove it light. I have friends with 350s in CJs YJs TJs XJs and all manner of non-jeep related vehicles that get more than 17mpg as well. A v8 swap means you CAN get bad gas mileage, directly correlating to the way you drive. That has an equal and opposite reaction if it's driven nicely. I got 24mpg regularly out of my 99 XJ with a 4.6 stroker, new model intake, borla header, neon srt4 injectors, torquer cam (dropping hp/torque curve to 1750rpm) 62mmTB and ax15 with nv242 tcase left in full time. The new owner (Jakeman) hasn't managed higher than 22-23 on highway. My KJ is rated at 14mpg city, 17-18 highway. I get 16mpg mixed and 21-22 highway with it by driving it nice.

The simplest answer I can provide is that any MJ will work. The electronics really just don't matter, at least on 86-90. 91-92 you'd need an 86-90 gauge cluster and cable. You can completely remove everything in the engine bay except the battery wiring, headlight stuff, and wires that power everything for lighting and dash related and starter relay wires. You can use the gauge cluster and all associated sensors (h20 temp, oil pressure), tie in the volt meter again, and tie in the tach with a pulse meter adapter (if necessary) to keep it working. I would just go with an LS motor. The honest opinion around my place is that since everyone does them, they're nothing special. But putting a windsor or cleveland in would be a travesty, and while logical, and AMC v8 would be cool but is so outdated it's not worthwhile for something you want to actually use. For me, it would be between an LS or a ford 5.0....I'd probably pick the 5.0 since it's not as common of a swap and the aftermarket support is at least as good as chevy.

4.10 should be cheaper since it was a common stock ratio

Pulling engine and trans.does make it easier, bit fromt clip must be removed to do so....that is easy tho

It won't run with the 94 flywheel...unless you mean swap the renix onto the new motor. You will have to do a bit different wiring to use any 94 electrical compoments. You will need the cam sensor from renix distributor, if thats even possible

mud is for the little-skilled rednecks anyways, but your comanche lost traction because the tires weren't clearing well enough. you were either too light on the throttle, or you bought MT's that aren't very well siped. lighter vehicles do well in mud because of the fact that they don't just sink.

If both are complete drum to drum, wheel bearings, steering and all....at minimum $800 and someone would be stealing them at that. They are worth $1200 to $1500, but good luck finding a jeeper who will spend that much in one go. it seems that everyone wanting a regear nickels and dimes everything together over the course of a year or more, and just can't pony up the cash for a good deal

very nice guys! Rev, I know that the winter wolf is almost identical to the snow bear. I know it works for the application, but being me, I like the interior cab control and lift. How does it work for you? Here's pics of my setup! can't do much better for $500 This is what I'm putting it on

Nothin wrong with the 45rfe trans though And incommando, You have a good argument but I would still rather have the muscle car. A buddy of mine has a smart car with a hyabusa motor in it, wicked fast and would beat stock Ferrari. It is still ghey, and I would rather have the slower Ferrari than a smart car.

that's not going to happen in a renault 2.1. The cylinders are drop-in sleeves in an aluminum block that are the better part of 5/8" thick.

Just curious. Up until this past year, we've plowed our personal drives with an MJ. Over the years, we've had an old Western cable op on both the diesel and (while he was in high school) it was on my brother's 88 MJ. A few years back, Steve lucked out and found a factory Meyer plow for his MJ. Last year, we did some upgrades to it...dumped the steel plow in favor of a poly that I got for nothing after selling the steel, upgraded the lights to higher wattage, upgraded the pump to an E57 (my oh my the speed increase was great!). Since last season, a few mishaps have happened that rendered the truck in serious need of front uniframe repair (not from plowing...collision) and wrecked the plow frame. As always with our beloved MJ's, that opened a whole can of worms: "well, if I have to paint a front clip, I should replace the doors since they're rusty and paint them to. and fix the rockers while I'm at it. and the floors. and the cracked windshield. and the bed." and so on and so forth. Since that's a time consuming endeavor, that will cost money we can't really justify dumping into it right now, that project is shelved until this spring. At that point, since it's a full resto, and we will be stroking the motor, the plow won't go back on. I'll be repairing the plow mounts to good as new, resto'ing the blade and pump (again), and selling the plow off, or perhaps keeping it for a utilitarian MJ I have my heart set on. Since that's the case, and we're always looking for craigslist deals, I looked and searched. I found an absolutely ridiculous deal on a 2011 Meyer Drive Pro 6'8" plow side only (no mounts, wiring, control) for $500. It's 2 years old and a $4000 setup without the mounts new....and it looks new. The Drive pro 68 is an awesome setup. Nite saber halogen lighting, just over the track width of the vehicle (even at full angle), it's quick, and it mounts and dismounts in under a minute with a single pull engagement system and 20 pin quick connecter the size of a 7 pin trailer connector. After getting that, it got me thinking. How about a plow on one of my KJ's? So After some research, time spent waiting on deals, I managed to pick up new in box KJ mounts for the DP 68, new in box body side wiring, new in box light controllers, and a new in box pistol grip controller for around $700 all told. Now, I know what alot of you are going to be thinking and saying.... "You can't plow with a uniframe, that's bad for it!". To you I say poppycock. That's a load of crap. If anything, the KJ uniframe is stronger than an MJ's, and both are at least as strong as a YJ/TJ frame, if not stronger, when in good (non-rusted) condition. The concept that you cannot plow with a uniframe is incorrect, and ill-informed. We have done it for years, as have many others, including residential professionals as the benefits of the short wheel base combined with the throwaway use of an XJ are astronomical and time-saving over say, a fullsize truck. The use of any plow is hard on any vehicle, so the simple thing is to not push beyond the limits of the vehicle you are using. Maybe you need to take half cuts. Maybe you even need to backdrag then push in shorter increments rather than trying to straight push a 1.5 mile long drive. But it can be done (Our MJ pushed 4' snowdrifts 40 feet long 2 years ago with no problem, if you took your time and did it right). Anywho, This will be an interesting year for me. I've just mounted up the drive pro to the KJ, got her working, drained everything, evac'd the angling rams, new fluid, combined a Meyer E60 and the DP's Meyer E58H to make a Meyer E61H. This gives me the fastest combination available, with the best angling block and sealed isolated ground coils. The KJ can take the 405lbs of the plow on the front, especially since I installed diesel KJ springs. It's a bit front heavy at the moment; To improve traction, I will have to add ballast in the form of receiver mount weights or even a salt spreader for our gravel drive. The other positive is that since I do rebuild snow plow pumps for a living in the winter, I will now have a very nice business front vehicle. Obviously I don't run a plow service, but it helps to be properly equipped, even if I only plow my drive and a few friend's drives. I'll post up pics once I've got the new decal for the front of the blade. So, what do you guys plow with for your purposes?

Be aware that this swap caused him to rebuild AX5 transmissions more or less on a monthly base. Zeke, it wasn't the worst swap on earth, but a T5 or AX15 with dakota bell housing is necessary. which means custom drive shafts. custom exhaust, y-pipe, headers custom intake custom motor mounts frame rale modification to retain compressor for a/c the wiring was easy. a dana 35 also won't hold up. And Marcel, it wasn't a monthly basis that I blew trans, it was about every 1000-2000 miles that I could grenade a trans. I don't know the edelbrock carb part number.

Maybe on your renix it will, but not on any I've ever owned...

Honestly, if you're going to stick with the 2.8, I'd get the fuel injection manifold from a fiero, s10, blazer, etc. and install it...even if it's throttle body. There is nothing good about a 2.8l in a truck, but a carb'd 2.8 runs like junk. There might be a company or two who make a bolt-on 2bbl carb for it that eliminates all the vacuum hoses etc. from the carb, but I honestly cannot recall. First chance I had to ditch my 2.8, I did, and put a buick 3800 in place. Never buying a vehicle with a 60 degree gm motor again.

the intake manifold won't support a 4bbl carb. Edelbrock used to make a 4bbl intake manifold that works with a holley 390cfm carb. If you're throwing a 3.4 in, you need to swap manifolds to retain carb. I understand the expense of buying a new one, but if it's more the work of swapping it...you've gotta do it anyway. That is, unless you do the best option and use the camaro's fuel injection (literally some of the easiest wiring I've done in my life) and put a 4.0 fuel sending unit and pump in it.

Opsled is my father, and I learned to drive on his diesel MJ. Oil in radiator indicates to me that there is a crack in the head or something of that nature. This is not unheard of, though I have no direct experience with oil in coolant. Ours drove for 100,000 miles with a crack in the cylinder 3 behind the precup, putting pressure into the cooling system. We could not get the boost above 5PSI or we would end up losing coolant as well as heat. You could have a similar issue, as well as blow-by in the cylinders, thus putting oil into the cooling system. This is a reasonable solution considering how much the jeep allegedly smokes. In no way have I ever heard of cooling system cavitation causing oil in coolant. As the charge cooler is seperate, located on the passenger side of the engine bay, and in no way attached to the radiator, you cannot be confusing the two. Vacuum reservoir is on both sides of the bumper, behind it near the end caps. I cannot help you with vacuum diagrams. Let's get Rob to snap pics of his. 2.1 TD and non-turbo have a vacuum pump located on the driver's side of the motor underneath the injector pump. It's likely blown, and IIRC Rob found a source for them. There are two different styles of alternators. One is a GM style, the other is a Paris Rhone. The latter is the harder to find, although I believe Rob found a source for them through carquest.

As I personally own zero comanches at this point, and am driving an 02 liberty, same as my dad (though his is on 32" MT's), and having sold one of 30-something diesel MJ's, there isn't much room for me to point fingers at newer jeeps. For what they are, they are all great vehicles. The YJ simply holds no special place in my heart because of the front end design, and obvious rust-belt related frame design flaws. All Wrangler body styles up to the JK's ride like bricks. oh well. But coil sprung is much better, and pre-YJ is just cool for the fact that they were ultimately the same/similar body design for running on 30 years. Having driven Patriots, Rallye's, Commanders, Compass, I can say that they all drive/handle great. They are not, as their owners think, capable off-road vehicles. The MOAB edition and Trail Rated editions are a joke, almost as much as the price tag vs. capability of TJ+ rubicons....pricewise, we can (and would prefer) to build one indestructable and extremely capable xj or mj. I would daily drive the new "cherokee" if someone gave one to me, but it would always be referred to as "the car" as it is, in no way, shape, or form, a Jeep.

nice choices!

Pot, meet Kettle. Don't assume I was being negative to be negative. YJ's just aren't a good...well, anything. Everything about them (as far as wranglers go) is inferior to TJ+ wranglers, as well as CJ-. headlights are all off, suspension rides...well, like a brick. Understandably so, and yes they're actually pretty capable vehicles, but comparing the frames alone to CJ or TJ frames is enough to ward most off from one. There is a time and a place for a YJ. Barrett Jackson sure as shootin isn't one of them. That thing sold for over twice it's value.

where's the rest of the bed? looks like every other YJ that I see, except someone "custom put" a scrambler hard top on it. YJ are the abortion wrangler.

Still junk. Why sacrifice the reliability?

Never heard of any 4.0 getting above 18 highway aside from someones dads brothers best friends jeep. 87 with 95 H.O. .030 bore comp torquer cam borla header mustang 5.0 injectors 62mm tb 99+ intake shaved to fit with header aw4 d30/d44 4.10 gears 33x10.50's 22mpg mixed, 24mpg highway. 18-19mpg city solid with 35's I got 22mpg highway, 18-19 mixed, 16-17 city that was my jeep, those are factual miles with odometer calibrated correctly. When I pulled that motor and put it in the 99 2dr 5 speed d30/c8.25 3.07's and 245/70r16's I got a solid 19mpg city, 22-24 highest highway. I was more than capable of getting 12mpg out of this combination if I drove like a jackass. stock renix was even better MPG. I suggest you guys spend some time learning the sweet spots of your motors, or make sure they run even better.

remember that if you go poly, you need to upgrade the trans mount to poly as well. I have the M.O.R.E. rubber mounts that use factory LCA bushings as the mounts never failed yet.

those seats are cavalier or sunfire for sure.