JeepcoMJ

Or... Mazda also used it? And that would mean it's an MZR-CD

now, would it be the same block that would be found in an 85 isuzu aska sedan?

So, it's cerca asia production, same country as a toyota not a volvo not a GW4D20 not a mitsubishi not from a company beginning with a C It is a 2.0 CRD

GW4D20

Volvo?

I assume it's a Mitsubishi. 2.5-3.0, something like that. though, kind of strange it almost looks like it's got a gm 60 degree bell.

eewww diesel with automatic trans. no fun. That's a modern turbo, too. I'm thinking newer than 95

Chains are for binding down immobile items, for securing a load, and for anchoring ships. Never are chains supposed to be used to pull or tow something. Even if you're very good behind the pulling rig, any disparity between driver of tow rig and driver of rig being towed will allow for slack, which will cause tugging. Chains used in recovery snap, buck, and bind. People have gotten killed by them.

trackbar increasing angle has pulled axle towards driver's side.

Chains, because of their tendency to break links, fly and cause damage. You would be hard pressed to find anyone who wheels and would go out with you if you planned on using chains.

just take your time, and give it a break when you're frustrated. use your head when you get stuck, figure out the easiest and safest way to get anything done.

in this thread, because they have no concept of safe recovery. On the whole, because they do a crappy job of executing builds, even if the it "looks" cool outwardly.

AAL on rear is fairly easy. You will need new u-bolts (not optional, not junkyard part, must be new....$40). They untension when you unbolt them, and if yours are original you will probably need to cut them off. AAL get's added to the second lowest spot in the pack, usually, though it will get added to the area it fits (above the one that's shorter than it, below the one that's longer than it). They're fairly easy to install, and you only need to unbolt your axle ubolts and lower shock mounts, move the mounts out of the way. Don't bother taking the springs off as you can add them to the pack with the springs still mounted. You may have to cut the center bolt of the springs off to get it out as it will be pretty rusted on, and you may have to replace it...same ID (5/16" IIRC) full thread allen head grade 8 bolt with a 1/4" allen head works great to replace. You'll want one that's about 1/4" longer. the axle does have to get slid forward on the spring to do it so you can access the top bolt. You could always pull the springs and do it on the ground, as well, but you will need to support the body by the frame rails and the axle with jack stands. don't use cinder blocks...I don't want to see you dead. the AAL with a set of $40 chevy DROP shackles would work well.

Don't waste your time with that trans...that is a ba10/4 peugot, not an ax15. There is no midplate like an ax15 has, and the case is split straight up the middle. save yourself the time, because it's certainly no upgrade....and being a peugot, is alot of risk as to whether or not it's even any good.

then leave the front alone. and stock shocks would work, but you'd be best off getting some shorter if you were to drop it down.

rear coils from a ZJ will accomplish this, but you will want some good shocks to make the ride better. Lift blocks in the rear will drop it if you leave it SUA

i guess. I used to be that way. Now, I don't spend money on anything I *want* only what I *need* unless it's extra money

hope you heal fast, but if money is that tight, there's alot of other things you should be using it for.

if Rob needed another, he'd have bought our diesel for parts... That thing is real rough. Really Really rough.

Don, I understand saving a buck, and no doubt the ford links are nice when new, but with the money you have into that thing, don't you want something name brand and nice on it? I'm actually surprised you haven't dug up a nice aftermarket swaybar for that thing.

Huh. So hornbrod deleted my previous post here that started page 2. Uh duh, yeah,. That's what I meant...research, using correct parts, do it once and do it right, but more importantly do it right. I was completely backing that up, and disagreeing with Hornbrod and all of the others who think using the wrong parts, or doing it wrong, or IN ANY WAY are suggesting to the original poster that he should continue as he is. The OP has got a completely bastardized MJ. The links are fubar because the coils are fubar, with spacers on top and these junk spring boosters, which means his control arms are fubar, not to mention the ratty, terrible rear suspension he's got going.

I know the stroke is different with the japanese motor that's in it, it's got a bit more power yadayada etc. etc. I really don't care to "know" anything about them, but knowing comes with the territory unfortunately lol. just trying to get a feeler on value for quick sale. How much do you think one needing a front clip but coming with most parts is worth?

very hard to find. if its original

like the title states. 92 prelude with an H22A (my understanding is that this is an import version of the motor, with more cojones) Selling our sandrail, I was offered one as a straight up trade. complete running driving car, lowered 2", BUT the front is smashed up from someone backing into it, subframe dammage (repairable), fenders and lower trim new in box included, need front bumper and headlights, and hood, has everything else. swap was done right. i know the owner well enough to trust him and his skills. he doesn't hack. let's just say that I know the motor alone is worth more than the sandrail is. Does anyone know anything about them and/or know anyone looking for a project car or conversion kit? I'm definitely interested in making money, don't want a prelude or a car that I can see over standing next to it.

I worked with our high school chemical research and design group, as just a fun thing to do...and one thing I know is product "up-sale" is huge. Example; one of our cleaning products had a huge selling point. "will take permanent marker off of anything". Our test display was a piece of glass that we would write on with permanent marker, then show them how easy it was to clean off when done. While the product was good, the joke was on the buyers. You can take permanent marker off of glass with most anything liquid, and it doesn't have to be an acid, base, or contain any type of detergent. Guess my point is that that, sir, is too good to be true.