JeepcoMJ

Interior parts are direct swap from 85-94 cherokees. everything else requires fab work for the seats, and nothing else will fit from any model other than an xj. Dashes swap from 85-96 with little hassle. steering columns do not work from 95-96. Only the kick panels, door panels, dash, seats, steering column and center console are interchangeable between those years xj and mjs of all years. You will need MJ specific grey interior. Contact Rob (automan2164) regarding the MJ specific trim parts. I know he's got a ton of extra. You will want your seats to be from a 2 door cherokee....but you will be hard pressed to find a limited 2 door, so you may have to make a set of seats between 4 door leather and 2 door cloth (very easy to do). Bucket seat brackets are MJ specific, but you can make them using bench brackets and xj bucket seat brackets. If you live in a rust area, do not do diamond plate side steps. They WILL CAUSE rust, and you cannot get behind them to wash the salt out without laying on your back under it. Do a set of chrome nerf bars if you must have them...they won't trap rust.

They bolt in. The shift gate is wrong on the shifter. You can cut it to remove and swap out, or swap the entire shifter. You will need the shift arm off the transfercase to be xj/mj specific, but that's an easy swap with one nut. You will also likely need to adjust the shift linkage, and obviously swap the bezel. But so long as the input spline is the same, you're good to go. Basically, you need a 231 of similar vintage for the xj, and the zj will need a 21 spline IIRC.

You will be able to find chrome mirrors (power, manual remote, manual), and all front end chrome trim parts off of teamcherokee.com or ebay or used in nice shape at the junkyard or from local members. Good luck getting a set of chrome trim tail lights...they are gold. front bumper likewise is the same as a cherokee and readily available, but you don't want aftermarket...they aren't right and look terrible. Rear bumper, the closest you will get is a Fey chrome rear bumper, which are NOT strong enough to tow from. If you have a helpful dealer, there are 23 or so chrome MJ factory step rear bumpers left in NOS storage. They are not cheap. You will not be finding a chrome tailgate handle without a ton of help from members here to keep their eyes peeled...and it won't be cheap if you do find one.

eh. I'd be buying a 4 cyl or 2.8 v6, so swapping the motor out isn't a problem, since both of those are dogs. all the parts are still here for the 3800 swap. I just got rid of the body.

I see where you are coming from. I'm currently more "active" with the KJ community....though there is much disdain (on my part) towards a mini van on steroids, and they know it. I feel like, until the "right MJ" comes along, there is no point in having one. I just scrapped my first ever MJ, it was my second vehicle, first project....what I learned to do everything on, from engine swap to interior to body work. But it's hard to justify repairing something that is worth $250 when you have $7000 into it. One day I will have another, but I'm going to be extremely picky. it will have to have the most perfect body imaginable, though I don't care about the mechanicals...because they will be swapped for another buick 3800. I suppose that's a way to look at it. Bleed and sweat something, gain zero respect over it, making yourself bitter about it in the process, and that's the position you end up in.

Own 50+ jeeps...you will understand

I stopped caring about helping anyone and helping the site. simple as that. also got sick of mj's for the most part.

.

mid to late 90s is what the alloy one is from. I know they were introduced by 94, at least on the YJ. maybe earlier.

xj booster and master are the same, unless you are talking about a 96+ dual diaphragm brake booster, which has twice the boost power. You would be best with that, and an xj proportioning valve.

Thanks, it did sell for close to what I wanted on Monday. Since it sold, and the 88 MJ is erstwhile damaged and non-functional and has one problem leading to another and so on (i.e. no point fixing one thing until I'm ready to just restore it), that left me without a vehicle. Unfortunately, that meant that I had a few options; 1.) Buy a beater 2.) Borrow a friend's beater 3.) Get more excercise (walk, ride bike) 4.) Screw option 3. 5.) Drop the 4.7 project for the moment, buy another 3.7 (got a "deal" at $1787 for one. I miss the price of 4.0's), drop it in orange KJ, detail it, fix up some minor issues, have it detailed, and drive it. Chose option 5. I didn't want anything to do with a rusty, clunky, just-get-me-by vehicle. It's not what I want, but it works. I'll be buying another KJ with a bad 3.7 within the next month or so to do the 4.7 swap on. Once done, tested, proven, and finalized, I will play musical KJ bodies and swap the guts into the orange body, so I end up with the one I want. end result; Just need to put nicer rims on, replace driver's mirror (pivot point is messed up, doesn't stay put so it has a zip screw holding it tight to keep it from swinging around now), detail interior, replace windshield. drives great.

parts master are the same as low grade purolator or wix IIRC, an in-stock item at bumper to bumper. I run them all the time with no issues, but it is possible you had a defective one. I run, in this order, best to worst depending on what I can get at the time I need to do the change, if I'm in a pinch; Mopar Wix Purolator Parts Master I will not run Fram, K&N, etc. the last FRAM I had come on a jeep (seems I ALWAYS buy them with FRAM filters and that always puts the price lower for me), I cut apart. the paper element was mush, looked like a pile of snot, and there was no check valve inside to keep the oil from dropping back down through the filter once the engine was off.

I would, if they planned on using it.

heat gun

LMFAO Around these parts, the people you'd call "rednecks" are in no way insulted by being called a "redneck". That's not a put-down, it's a description of a type of person. I'm sorry that you're so easily offended.

no, you're stating opinion. The facts are that chains are not acceptable recovery gear for 99.9% of recovery situations.

Here is the bottom line; There is no wheeling community that doesn't support drinking on the trails that agrees with you. Seeing your opinion on the matter, I'm happy you're not around my neck of the woods. Because you'd be the first person I'd tell to go wheel alone. Chains aren't safe for recovery. they kill people.

All of those are plausible by the fact that they were low pressure fuel supply. Using a fuel injected 40PSI system is inadviseable. Rob, that system you are talking about works great...I've actually worked on one that was used as a pressure pump for an industrial sandblaster. No fuel supply to the bank in question. Actually, I've built a VW 1600 dual port compressor, using one bank to power the compressor. no fuel supply to that bank...just an adapter to take the intake runner straight to a filter, and check valves for intake stroke were necessary on the spark plug holes.

personally, I wouldn't waste my time with the scout axles. They are narrower than your stock axles, and not even close to bolt-in. I'd be on top of that 8.8 personally, then regear your front to match, and convert to non-disconnect at the same time.

agreed. Harley, unlike firearms, there are less people who own chains and have the training on using them, much less the common sense to do so. More people who own guns are trained to use them safely than people who aren't. Your reference is insulting to good honest gun owners, and not even close to being on the mark.

can't. You'd need a check valve on the fitting otherwise it would just cavitate air. And you'd have to shut off the fuel injector....which would cause issues in the ECM. not a great idea.

must be the case. now i'm looking at it. I think you've got a good power plant there. I'm sure if you get access to alldata, you'll be able to pull up information from it for wiring. Now, if parts are easily obtainable...

Reading up on the MZR-CD's, that sounds like a good little motor, if not a bit overcomplicated by the use of multiple balance shafts.

Scratch the last post lol.

hmm. turbo'd. perhaps RFT-DI Is that out of a mazda 626 wagon?