JeepcoMJ

here's what I sent.

you need to put the nut almost all the way back on in order to remove it, then use that and HEFTY amounts of lube (not wd40, PBblaster) on it applied at least once a day to the spindle for a few days before you try to pull it off. anyways...I see no reason to pull the NSS to get the connector out...the connector is a quick-connect and can be removed using a socket once the trans line is out. if you're doing it because of a broken clip in the quick-connect, I'd just get in there with a small screw driver or likewise and break it out.

what shoves the coil farther forward is the lack of proper control arm and axle position. what you running for arms?

That looks pretty good. :thumbsup: umm. yuck. what on earth made you think that orange and blue go together? take it off...mark it black instead of blue, and you'll have a good looking truck

Yes. Its not even a XJ wheel mounted on a XJ column, the ZJ column has a different level for the tilt, is smaller, and only has one control stalk. This is very clearly a 96-98ZJ column. um. you have NO idea what you're talking about here dudely. I've seen that wheel in 2000 and 2001 XJ's, though none were stock jeeps so it is possible they were swapped (however unlikely) for ZJ wheels/airbags. But, that column is DEFINITELY an xj column. I have the same, identical column in my comanche from a 1995 cherokee. they didn't change much, if at all after that. cherokees never had dual stalk columns either...always single stalk, just as the one in the picture is. the other "stalk" you see is the tilt adjuster. not to start animosity...just pointing out the truth.

Right, but the guy who did this probably got it titled as a homemade vehicle in 2004. easily understood. however, one still cannot say (as the OP has and supposedly the ebay seller has), that it was combined with a non-existent 2004 cherokee.

that "funny thing" is called a sentinal system. hopefully you grabbed all the sensors for it....

umm. there's NO SUCH THING as a 2004 cherokee.

um...the answer would seem pretty incoincidentally obvious. as long as you shift everything through gears (trans and t-case), and the outputs turn respectively to the inputs, in both 2wd and 4wd on the case, and not when the case is in neutral or the trans in neutral, then you're just fine.

no. as I've posted before I'm unsure of the years which were short and long with the seal depth differences. if it spins outside of the vehicle, but not in, you have one of two problems. A. put the transfercase in something other than neutral. B. you somehow don't have the right clutch assembly for the transmission you put in. the clutch varies by TRANSMISSION. i.e. if you have an 87 but are using a 91+ transmission, chances are that the 87 clutch and pressure plate are different. did you install everything properly?

*sigh* same question, different time... what geonovast said. the answer to your question is no, not without extensive work.

what's wrong with your ax4 other than it's only a 4 speed? reason I ask, is that you can get a little creative here... both geonovast and I have converted ax4's to ax5's. he took a 4wd ax4 and the necessary 5th gear parts out of a "junk" trans either he or I had laying around, and combined them. I've done this 3 times now...either combining 4wd ax4's and ax5's to make a good trans, or taking a 2wd and converting it to 4wd and adding 5th gear. it's not bad, so if worse came to worse and you're pretty mechanically inclined, you can buy a 4wd ax5 and combine the two. just remember to use ONLY RTV ultra-black to seal it (normal rtv will deteriorate in contact with gear lube)

Are you going to get the key fob for your MJ keyless entry???? me? yeah if you still have them. i mean, I left the reciever there and everything...

yea. FYI to the original poster. mileage has NOTHING to do with compression. only the engine's maintenance history has anything to do with it.

you'll need to do some fiberglass work and shorten the one of them down to fit it in the comanche. the fruity one is missing the keyless entry module too. anyways, the wiring runs up the pass. side A-pillar and the connector may already be there behind the knee board.

i didn't notice....welcome haha. get the sending units figured out?

I prefer the rocker bases...sure you gotta watch your head getting in, and a tilt column becomes a necessity, but I LOVE being able to see that extra 5 or 10 inches directly in front of my truck.

lol, stir away, this is funny chit :clapping:

oh, 260k on my dad's diesel MJ

Yeah, when I dropped the tank in the 4.0 I just christened my sawzall and cut the straps. I just come equipped with a fire extinguisher and a torch, cutting away from the tank. usually if the tank is rusty I'll punch a hole in it and drain it, then smash it down and get rid of it.

Brent, while you have it out. I suggest welding up brackets for your straps to bolt to with just a normal bolt rather than the long stud. that stud is a b*@$£ and I haven't ONCE been able to save one. plus it would be nice to be able to fit a deep well over it. and to have coarse thread instead of fine so it doesn't take 15 hours to get off

92k on odometer in a "1995" MJ :P 86 MJ with only 78k. just swapped gauge clusters today from an xj into an MJ for a guy and reset odometer from 265 to what he had on his MJ (120690.6)

I think the two exhaust thing happened in 2001, iirc. k I wasn't sure. one more thing...in 98 or 99 they went to coil packs, in which case you will need to devise a way to secure the coil pack rail to the head if you use a head from before that year.

:dunno: i din't kno there were such a ting as mayntanin' skeduls. ah' jus' chenge te oyal wen is brown ayund te uder floooods wen tey small funy.