JeepcoMJ

if your speedometer isn't working, then your odometer isn't working, or isn't showing accurate. how are you gauging your miles travelled?

geeze man. good luck, and god bless. I hope everything works out in the end...

going from electrical to cable is not a very good idea. it's not as accurate, and it's EXTREMELY easy to melt speedo cables.

they didn't. no way you have a plastic 4.0 valve cover.

you just went too far...

...but they gotta pay. giggity giggity

don't forget to mention that the engine should be fresh, not dirty as hell and probably poorly maintained. the rear bumper should at least be aftermarket not banged up. the gerry can should have a mount not a strap the front bumper should at least be put on straight...but an ARB bumper is essentially a 1-time use bumper (i.e. it takes a hit then is garbage...exactly what it was designed for) so I think it should have a bumper that weighs more than 100 lbs. it should have a high pinion front end (i didn't look if it did or not) and a dana 44 rear, with lockers all around and discs all around. and then it should have more than a spray-bomb paint job at that price.

had a similar dying issue with the 3800. turned out to be the sleeve for the power feed in the connector to the coil packs was rounded out and not always contacting the pin. pulled it out, reshaped it, never had the problem again. you're running a relay for the fuel pump yes?

k. I'm headed off to get my rock rails started hopefully done. tomorrow afternoon I have to leave around 12:30 to get my friend's alfa romeo and my alfa romeo.

are you talking about welding on the industrial D-rings with the little weld on clip, or welding on mounts for clevis? either of those would be fine, though the clevis mounts should be welded all the way through the bumper and be at least 1/2" thick.

sweet. so you're coming over soon to test flex? today would have been a perfect day to do that. this weekend is looking pretty chitty. maybe next weekend. you got time? I don't have work today or tomorrow.

well. it's only worth that if it's the 4 cylinder. the 86 2.8 liter is a piece of crap

sweet. so you're coming over soon to test flex?

a class 3 hitch will work just fine in the rear (just get a shackle reciever to make it easier), and yes tow hooks are fine...you just need to have decent enough mounts/not have them welded to the mounts. factory tow hooks and mounts are more than adequate.

That's 'cause you live in WI (or points north). In vehicles that have lived south of the MD line their entire lives, most all bolts, Torx included, come out pretty easily, although a little persuasion is sometimes nesessary. If it comes out in good shape, I always reuse them, w. a generous dose on anti-seize applied. :cheers: agreed. but I do like my rust-free trucks...removing the bolts in them is easy. for all the other ones, it's just an excuse to use the torch. :brows:

chains have their place. but they don't belong in a tug-n-pull situation. they're for mild recovery, not major. that's not an opinion, it's pretty much a fact. any runs I go on...no chains allowed. and I don't host runs, I don't trail lead. that rule is not one I made, but one I thoroughly embrace. Straps have their place and are adequate in 99% of situations. As for my statement. it applies to an actual TOW HOOK not industrial D rings etc. there's a difference between welding a 2lb tow hook to a piece of steel and calling it good, and welding an industrial D ring on a solid surface. industrial D rings are usually welded on material that is 1/2" thick or thicker, and they are welded on using a good quality welder that has high heat and great penetration. an average joe shouldn't weld them on, and they shouldn't be on anything thinner than what they're designed for. in the case of industrial D-rings, they are designed for heavy machinery but not so much for recovery of the vehicle they're generally found on. a tow hook should never, ever, ever be welded on to anything. they have two holes for a reason. grade 5 bolts are to be used. the reason for this is that grade 8 bolts, and welds, do not give. at the point where they're going to break, they snap and unload as fast as a bullet coming out of a pistol. grade 5 bolts will show signs of give before they break, allowing the driver to feel (and spotters who are standing within safe distance of the vehicle being recovered to see) the problem before the hooks have a chance break off. I've been on a few trail runs now. I say that as literally a few. I'm no seasoned wheeler, but I listen very attentively to recovery advice and facts, because I don't want to die, nor do I want to see anyone get killed or hurt. any organized trail run you go on will have a safety check. if you weld your tow hooks on, you will not pass it. that's because the rest of us would like to survive the trip. if your hooks are welded on...fine for you. but expect it to become a problem in one way or another in the future. because in the end, it's not safe. p.s. there is a difference between but-welding a recovery point to a bumper (or whatever it's being welded to), and incorporating it into the mounts, which are welded THROUGH the bumper. And BTW I didn't finish my clevis mounts yet either. hence the fact that I didn't drill the holes...then I'm not tempted to use them, and I go the old fashioned way with my clevis reciever until it's done.

Like a stalker cares about the girl he is "courting" :yes: She never objected to me living in her crawl space. 8) Willy damn...you got the crawl space? :fs1: Sir Sam, I believe your point is taken lol.

yup. I always suggest, for a motor rebuild, grabbing a motor for cheap that runs, tear it down, reseal, and add any performance parts you wish...then swap, and keep the old one for a spare. if you can't keep the old one as a spare, then sell it for a hundo and get some coin back. to re-iterate my previous post...the reason motors get that way with chitty filters is that people get in and start pounding the motor right away, before the oil has any time to get to the moving parts and lubricate.

the ONLY reason a motor gets this way is when someone uses chitty oil filters. Fram, K&N, and ALL OTHER performance filters are junk. as Eagle said, you need one with a superior anti--drain back valve (basically a back-flow-preventer). this keeps oil up in your valves and lifters after you shut it off rather than draining back down like performance filters do. make no mistake, "performance" filters do nothing but destroy your motor. they're no good, and don't have the good qualities of other filters. filters I'd run in my motors WIX Purolator genuine MOPAR that's my list. that is all I'd consider running. on a H.O. 4.0 the only filter I will run is genuine MOPAR it has the most superior filtration and back-flow prevention of all of them. this means no metal on metal contact at startup, and no particles getting where they don't belong. -Pat

...and I'd kill you wade if you let that happen.

good for you. good to post what you've done.

yes, won't rev that far. idles at 650rpm tho. new ecu made it run better. as stated, already swapped it out. not the problem. thanks hornbrod...I hadn't even thought of that. that's pretty likely actually, knowing who worked on it previously. just pissed I didn't notice the problem 2 years ago when I originally bought the truck (it's passed through two friends since then) -Pat

any ideas what could cause a renix 4.0 to not idle past 3500? it acts like that's its limiting rpm. it's an 87 4.0 with auto. I've swapped ignition pack, engine computer, tranny computer, MAP, and throttle bodies still the same. leaning towards bad CPS?

isn't that something you should keep to yourself??? :rotfl2: :doh:

hopefully by "staggered" you don't mean larger front smaller rear...cause that wouldn't work with the gear ratios available (must match). but if you meant rears stick out farther than front, :thumbsup: