JeepcoMJ

That's sort of what I was thinking, but I don't have any way to confirm. Thanks for the info. welcome. I'll have to split that case off the trans before the end of the week and find out to confirm...one more notch to the databanks.

added: front AND rear tow point should be mandatory tow straps will not have hooks built in.

need bigger pics. :redX: your grille isn't screwed in. :nuts: the truck is sweet :cheers:

I thought roger rode the short bus...? :hmm:

Sorry guys it wasn´t my intention to cause confusion the parts were ordered directly from china It was months after you did your order. :cheers: edgy people involved in the deal by this point...Thanks for your time reguarding that. anyways, are you guys just doing the conversion on MJ's? or both MJ's and XJ's? how many have you done? we could use a good write-up for this conversion

This is good feedback and should be heeded. It's not pleasant to learn the hard way by using dubious parts to save a few $$ and then experience premature failure and/or they don't work at all. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose, but most often you lose; at least I have by not buying parts with a proven track record. :cheers: thanks. one point I'd also like to add is that I have driven the truck to 79,000 miles. now, we all know I've beat the crud out of that truck...and she's bit my arse more than I care to remember, when it comes to me having to do repairs. BUT even the hardest street driving (and that's all that truck has seen) doesn't warrant failed ball joints which have been properly maintained, in under 15,000 miles.

pm sent GaruMJ.

oh...one additional piece of info. the ax5 retained it's 21 spline input it's entire career in the cherokee and comanche...only variation was input shaft length. that information is passed on to me (I forget sources) by several different people...as I say, I haven't yet split my 94 trans and t-case but when I do (in the near future) I will let you know.

np207 was used at least until 1988 behind the ax5 4wd version, however it may have been up to 1991...unsure. after that, the np231 was used. there are long and short output seal variations of the ax5, which determine which input size you need on your trans...I haven't yet taken apart my 1994 ax5 and np231 to find out if this is the long or short, however I can say most of the older ax5's used a long input shaft...meaning you cannot use any short input np231 without some modification. the one thing you must have for sure is an ax5 4WD version of the transmission...you cannot simply bolt a t-case to the 2wd ax5 (or any other cherokee, comanche, or newer jeep). that would require swapping your output shafts (and main gear cluster to a 4wd output shaft) and output housing on the transmission. I'm (temporarily) putting an np242 21 spline short input from a 90 cherokee onto my ax5, but I need to swap out the output housing to the short shaft housing first. I wish I'd done thorough investigation on case numbers before I tore all 4 of the ones I've blown (3 I blew one blown with the truck when I got it) so I could tell you what case means what output...but I didn't :dunno: -Pat

failing door/key sentry chime. just a haphazard guess...but seems likely. if your relay tests don't do anything, remove the 1.5"x2.5" black/blue box to the left of your fuse box in the driver's side foot well.

mods please feel free to discuss this with yourselfs and either leave it as good advice to the forum/rules of forum-specific wheeling events, or delete it as necessary (hopefully you can give input/advice first?)

ABORT MISSION. have these in the 3800. my front tires splay out and the axle looks bent because of them. I put them in at 66,00 miles with the 4wd conversion...they never looked right. I removed them and reinstalled...properly both times. even checked if they were offset...they are not. at 7,000 miles on them, with REGULAR greasing on top and bottom ball joints (i.e. pull axleshaft grease lower re-install every oil change). they are crap failures and the company offers no warantee or replacement. the second time I bought them (for another axle 3 months after buying the first set) I didn't use them for 3 years...when I finally did use them, it turned out that they couldn't even get it right and send me MJ upper ball joints...I ended up with dodge dakota uppers...which have the same taper but the uppers are 1" longer before the taper, so the knuckles wouldn't go on all the way. my loss for not using them right away. but...they're junk. buy local and be happy and assured.

looked at it, thought about it's recent medical procedures (lobotomy, heart transplant, amputation, limb re-attachment) and thought about the procedures to come :D then...I slept :D

well, IDK what J-tec means. but to convert it to your 4wd trans you need to use the H.O. torque converter because the bolts won't line up with the H.O. flex plate (and you can't run renix flex plate on H.O.) you'll also need to make sure you use an ecu for an aw4 if the donor cherokee has a 5 speed. then you'd also need the aw4 wiring obviously. basically, if it's an automatic cherokee, yes it will work but definitely heed my advice reguarding the H.O. torque converter.

dude that ain't right...how are you supposed to come wheeling with us? hell, I'll store it FOR FREE if you want lol.

yea Sorry about that Brent...by the time I found out when you would be there I'd already delved into a couple jeep projects too deep to stop and make it there... -Pat

Its a 92. k just checkin...you got a rare one. I just got through going over this swap with some idiot on naxja who wanted to put H.O. full gauges in with a renix system...he didn't comprehend (still doesn't) that you can't make an electric speedo work with a cable driven system, without converting the system...then he couldn't understand how to convert the system...and then he couldn't understand why his fuel gauge would read backwards unless he swapped to an H.O. sending unit :doh: I'm glad you've got the brains lol

what year comanche do you have?

oh you are going by wheelbase then. the 85 fullsize we used to borrow was plenty big to fit 5 people, with all our luggage, to go out on snowmobile trips up north and still pull a 4 hauler enclosed snowmobile trailer, so I don't see much sense in making a boat bigger.

umm. excuse me if I'm wrong but... a grand cherokee is ALREADY a suburban sized vehicle.

Well alright, a money pit of a less serious nature then :yes: :cheers: not very good pics, but I don't see any rust in the seems on the body panels like they normally have, and it looks like the green moldiness will just wash right off. that thing also has an OEM rollbar in it...worth some $$$ to a j-series owner. I'd buy it. it's open knuckle front, probably 44 front 44 rear unless it's a 1 ton then it's a semi floating dana 60 rear

nice find. you will need to cut out the rusted through section of frame, and get inside the frame to clean it out somehow, then plate it in the rear...that's a nasty hole and is just a precursor to the arse end falling off.

:doh: nevermind I looked at another pic you had and referenced them...you should be good to go.

??? I feel really stupid, because this shouldn't be this hard... I think you need to clock it counter-clockwise until the metal retaining tab pops into that notch. they are supposed to set in the notches.

camo-covered the headliner, installed it with the OHC and vanity wiring, fixed the low beams (pin came loose in the turn signal switch), swapped out the broken pass. tail light, fixed the power door locks, wired the interior lights. swapped a tie-rod on my buddy's MJ, tightened down his drag-link and trackbar ends, swapped out the driver's seat base foam because the base was sagging and cracked, and put my tube bumper on the front of it. then started sanding the "new" fenders, hood, and front clip for the 87. yesterday I stripped down the 3800's block to nada, my dad's having it dipped at work along with the heads once I get them stripped. pics tomorrow (they won't be fuzzy)