JeepcoMJ

Yah, there was a couple "41 11", and these were a D44 gearset... This would be for my REAR Dana 44... I want to get 4.09/4.10/4.11's anyhow, so if these are 3.73's they won't do me much good... well let me know if there's some way for me to get a hold of them. I don't have much money, but really would like to get to 3.73's in the 3800, and I've got a new dana 30 with 3.73's already prepped for it. I would need the carrier too though...

should be two numbers set apart from the others. such as 41 and 11. If I'm correct, those are 3.73 gears. you can't use a low pinion gear set in your high pinion dana 30, so to get matched gears you'd need to get the proper R&P for the dana 30. if you don't end up using that stuff, I'd be interested in it if it's for a dana 44 and is 3.73 gears...I need the carrier and gearset with limited slip for the 3800.

you mean axles, motors, etc. I doubt anyone has compiled a list, because that's generalized knowledge.

simple answer, WE DON'T KNOW. you'll have to find out if it bolts to a 60 degree gm motor. if it does, then the chances are likely that you can make it work. if you can't do that, then you will also have to make a bellhousing for it.

you're welcome! best place, most likely a junkyard. where's your location? if you decide to do a replacement, I can still walk you through a trans rebuild after you've swapped it...once you've gotten it rebuilt, you can sell the rebuilt trans and get your $$$ back out of it, or use it as a good learning experience.

gives me hope too...I was planning on putting an ax15 behind the 3800, but I would much rather have a 3550. which one is the 6 speed? I'd even like to venture into that lol.

yes. it would also cause noises in every gear but 4th gear. in this picture you can see the input shaft on the left with the input gear to the cross shaft. the first gear on the output shaft (which connects to the input shaft) is 4th gear. when that is engaged, it slides a collar between the input and 4th gear, locking them together for a 1:1 ratio. the next gear is 3rd gear. it is run off the cross shaft...a collar slides and locks the the gear to the output shaft, thus connecting the cross shaft to the output shaft on 3rd gear 2nd gear is next in line, and functions identically to 3rd gear. 1st gear is next in line and closest to the midplate and bearing. it works just the same as 2nd and 3rd. matter of fact, I believe the syncros are interchangable between the 3 of them. 5th gear is an add-on on the other side of the midplate. an ax4 4 speed is the same as an ax5 5 speed except that instead of 5th gear, it has a mini balancer on it, and the slide rails are slightly different. reverse works by simply connecting the input shaft through the cross shaft and hooking the cross shaft to the reverse gear on the output shaft...which is why the reverse has an idler gear instead of a syncro and shift collar. so, I think your problem is that your bearing went out for the cross shaft on your midplate, which is why 1st gear no longer functions..it's running crooked. this would cause noises in all other gears except 4th gear. the other problem you could have, which is one that I've had, is that your input gear has sheared off from the input shaft and cross shaft. that would look like this: (it is the first gear on the right, directly behind the input bearing.) it'd be easiest to install a replacement, but you can build it yourself for less than $100 if you only replace what is bad and ensure that the syncros are all good. a VERY important thing to remember while you're working on this...there are ALOT of detents and springs in that midplate and on the slide rails. if you don't HAVE to take the rails out, don't. the only rail I ever removed when rebuilding three of these cases was the 5th gear rail...you can take it apart yourself if you're gentle without ever removing any other rails (though you may have to turn several of them)

so far as I know, no one has attempted this to date. what you need to find out is if the bellhousing is a 60 degree gm bellhousing. I do not think it is because I'm fairly certain that they changed from the 2.5 liter gm pattern bellhousing to a different engine design after the early 90's. go to a chrysler dealer and ask them, that's about the only way you will find out. the AX15 is NOT the same as any of those other transmissions

sounds like your cross shaft had a bearing go out in the midplate to me. I've had this happen twice now but blown an ax5 4 times already lol. this first picture is a top view of your trans' guts. the input shaft is on the right, then the cluster gears and midplate and output is through the midplate to the left. 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio and is a simple lock between the input and output shaft. all other gears are run from the input to the cross shaft to whichever gear is selected. the cross shaft is located under the input and output shaft, with the revers idler gear being on the driver's side of the case at the same level as the cross shaft. this is a picture of the whole trans from the driver's side. they're not too hard to rebuild, and I've got plenty of parts to help you rebuild yours if you wish to.

I think I'm really glad you're plating the frame and caging it lol. (and that you're not doing this to my MJ) keep up the good work buddy.

...you may want to stock up on ice :eek: I suppose we'll be seeing alot more of you around the forum for the next few days, with how limited your physical mobility is about to become... :yes: :rotfl2: :doh:

idjits coulda just used a 91+ speedometer instead of wasting all the time on their cluster.

is a comanche trail capable? yes. but not that one. 14" of lift is alltogether TOO MUCH to be safe. the center of gravity is nowhere NEAR close enough to the ground to be safe. I hope to God it's got a full roll cage and 5 point harnesses. 38" tires...those can be fit on 8" of lift with proper trimming. the tires are probably too wide as well. aftermarket parts...anything from the front half of a cherokee bolts on, and only a select few people make rear bumpers and sliders (motion offroad, JCR) for them. you better yank that dana 35 right out of it and scrap it. go get some full width dana 60's or so in it so you widen out the stance with that much lift to lower the center of gravity. I sincerely apologize for coming off like an @$$ if I have. I just REALLY don't want you to be risking your life on the trails with something like that.

true enough, but you must remember, that his is an 86. unfortunately, unlike the 87+ 4 cylinder MJ's and XJ's, his 86 doesn't share the common 4.0 radiator support. so, in order for him to do the swap he'd have to do some fabrication. and at that point I would just suggest a camaro 3.4 motor...it's almost up there with a 4.0, a hell of alot better than a 2.5 liter, and it shares a common bellhousing with the 2.5 and 2.8 liters. btw to the OP...you will be wanting 4.88's with that thing is my bet. if you want, we can work out something on a 5 speed trans from a 94 xj 4 cylinder.

wow. you just posted the first post in this thread in about 3 years... :huh???:

welcome to the 4 cylinder clan. you have the classic "4 cylinder=no balls" disease. options to fix? deeper gears smaller tires upgrade motor. those are your issues more likely than not. how is it on the streets doing similar activity? how does it perform on the road in normal situations?

bed's coming off. putting my rusted 88 bed on it. gonna cut the bedsides off of it leaving the top lip, tail light section, and front section plus inner sides, then plate it with 1/8" steel plate to make it look like stock bedsides. then for flares I'm gonna use 1.25" 1/4 wall tube and plate it out. boxing in the tail lights, using round LED trailer lights and definitely installing an oval orange LED on the side as a side marker. also building fogs into the rear bumper as my back up lights now. this is gonna be some serious armour. think death race.

I have one. pm sent

no worries. wasn't you anyways. there were two who were being offensive, one more-so. and my statement towards him still stands (which is don't post in my threads).

lol. no chit. I don't think it's ANY sort of drive :P

oh. lol. you're best off having them chop the entire front half of the jeep off shipping it wherever you need.

whichever. it's easier for me to follow how many times the larger object (tire) has turned than it is to follow the small driveshaft's rotations. it really doesn't matter which way you go. if it takes you 4.1 turns on the driveshaft to make the tire rotate once, you have 4.10 gears. ANYWAYS, to the original poster. if you are staying with a 4 cylinder you should go to 4.56's right off the bat. if you are upgrading to a 4.0 and 5 speed then 4.56's will still work great around 2800 rpm's at 70mph from my understanding, and with a 4.0 and auto and 31's you'd be around that with 4.88 gears. the 4 cylinder is underpowered any way you go, so always add at least one gear size up.

if you can even find a RHD cherokee is the first question. they're rare you need to swap the entire firewall heaterbox dash dash wiring engine bay wiring steering box (need to modify pass. side of frame) steering linkages. gauge cluster switch panels dash clock or blockoff panel knee board idk but there may be quite a few smaller parts from the engine bay needed. I'd imagine you'll also need the throttle cable as well.

that will ball-park it. turn from the driveshaft. mark the tire in some way so you can accurately count the wheel spins. better to take the cover off and look at the two numbers on the ring gear. one larger (like 39) and one smaller (like 11) then divide larger by smaller (39/11) to get gear ratio. probably your best bet. I'd remove the rear diff cover as the dana 35 probably needs more close inspection than the front dana 30. if you clean up the bottom of your differential and the edges of your cover before you remove it, then drain the gear oil ensuring that it's clean into a clean drain pan, you can just RTV the cover back on when you're done and re-use the fluid if you want to. unfortunately there's no other way to tell 100%.

lolz. you owe me $150 now...