JeepcoMJ

bottom line guys.... our trucks are rare. parts are hard to come by. a good bed is a good bed, and I need a couple of them. if someone wants to come peddle parts, as long as they're honest (i.e. not playing the interested parties for more $$$), then why are you complaining? if you ban folks like that, we miss out on parts that would have otherwise been lost to the bonyard years ago. the goal of this site is comanche improvement, or at least maintenance. to do that requires parts that may or may not be shared with cherokees. but unlike cherokees, we can't find our parts in any junkyard we go to...we gotta look, scavange, and sometimes take it up the butt on cost to get to where we want to be. that said, I'm willing to deal with 1 post wonders, because they may have just that thing I was looking for at a really good deal. I suggest though, that we have a new "rule" reguarding classifieds.... if you're interested in the part from someone like this, and you send a pm, post "pm sent" in the thread. that way, if someone pulls what they were pulling on mfpdm, and someone has their suspicions of that happening, you can contact each other, call the person out on it, and at least someone should (theoretically) be able to get the scammer to come to a decent deal. will that work?

umm. I already have SYE and already have double cardan shaft. will mount carrier bearing with flange set to make the straight part of the double cardan shaft in line with the pinion (actually, a couple degrees UP so that when I accelerate, it carries down and in-line with the shaft). so, since I already have a double cardan rear shaft, this will work out as I stated earlier. trust me, I've already done the geometry.

I'm with Fitch. but no, 17" MOAB's won't fit without a wheel adapter. got a set in my shop after my brother made the same mistake of buying them.

thanks. figured a flat belly and more ground clearance would work out great for me. besides, I'm not increasing the driveshaft angle THAT much, I'm retaining the double cardan, and the intermediate shaft will be set up in a way that I won't have to change the pinion angle as well :D

lol. I was under the impression that zoolander didn't have that sense of humour lol.

87 SWB comanche. np231 with SYE, 6.5" lift with aw4 trans and 4.0 HO conversion. bent my rear driveshaft the other day playin on the rocks with 89eliminator. took it off so I can drive in FWD to work tomorrow since the company van has now fried all of it's electricals (bad body to motor ground strap, I think...clears everything, starter won't turn over, engine won't run when it does turn over). anyways. here's the plan. have the rear driveshaft retubed...but made to the length of a front aw4 driveshaft. get the proper carrier bearing and have an intermediate shaft built. this shaft will go from the t-case, through the carrier bearing, and have the proper yoke on the back of it to allow me to bolt my double cardan rear driveshaft to it. build a crossmember at the proper position, which sits between the frame and flush mounts. at the same time build a trans crossmember which sits between the rails too. this will allow for one very nice belly skid between the trans and that crossmember...giving me t-case protection. it will also allow me to have both driveshafts at the same length. the rear driveshaft currently uses a thicker tube than the front, and so it will remain my dedicated rear driveshaft. it's also currently a double cardan driveshaft. so, the goals: uniform driveshaft length allowing me to carry one spare driveshaft. zero parts hanging down, full belly protection. less chance of contacting the driveshaft on rocks due to a slightly steeper DS angle. does anyone have any input on this? It's only a concept at the moment, but I really think it can work. -Pat

SHIZER! for that rear-ended thing? NOICE! now come buy mine. $5000 cash for the 87 would take it off my hands.

dude, nice. but the iron rock offroad 3 link isn't a 3 link, it doesn't allow axle articulation. it's pretty much a set of sh*tty radius arms like ford has, but with even worse articulation. so at $300 I think you'd be better with a set of drop brackets.

6.5" rear on SOA with 1.5" perches welded on. 6.5" front

clean your fuel filter. then swap your injector. my bet, your fuel system is just gummed up. after those two things, there is the TPS, CPS, and ICM (coil pack)

ok, what year is it going in? any ax5 t-case will work. they almost all used long snouts input shaft through around 1988 or so when they changed to an np231. any 21 spline np231 should work for you. it should have a rear output housing set up for a short snout input np231, but you can put a long snout input np231 in them since the space is there. between geonovast and I we're the ones on the club who have messed with ax5's the most...both of us have successfully converted a 2wd ax5 to 4wd ax5 transmission by swapping gears on tail shafts etc. I've seen the most difference in rear output housings, varying from short to long input housings. anywho, you should be all set with a short input np231. if you find one with a long input you'd also be fine.

umm. I hope you are planning on swapping the transmission to a 4wd trans as well... the 2wd transmission is NOT compatible with the 4wd parts...the output housing is different, and the output shaft is not only shorter but a different spline count. so, if you're doing a swap it is necessary to swap to 4wd.

I have one from a 1994 which would probably work, but shipping is gonna be expensive.

I just sold one local for $150 23 spline and that was $100 under priced

There are guys in my club with Welders/Experience that I could goto for help... I was looking at some of the "pre-fab" Trusses out there by a few vendors and some get pretty $$$ I'm still trying to decide if I want to go "Cheap" and get a Lo Pinion TJ Axle and not have to switch R/P, or get the Free Hi Pinion Axle and spend the $$$ on the new R&P... I think I should probably truss either way... And will obviously need a new tie rod as well... Wade go hp and you won't regret it. plus idk how long you've been running your current gears, but the longer they've run the more they've worn and the harder it is to set the gears in a new axle, so it stands to make sense that it's time to upgrade. anyways, I owe you and I will be trussing my hp30 this week so if you wish I will make a second truss and also make you some LCA axle-side bracket skids/reinforcements that you will just have to weld on or have welded on. the truss would be two walls made of 1/4" diamond plate that's welded back to back with a ridge on top to cap them off, and will go between the UCA mounts and then one shorty for the axle side. I've got a disco 30 so I'll leave a bit of extra material on the pass. side UCA bracket which you will be able to grind down to fit (if they don't fit perfectly in...they will be close to perfect). I can even plasma cut your name in as SWII if you wish. -Pat

confirming that xj/tj coil buckets and CA mounts are the same. I could build you a truss, or at least cut out a template for you as well. you'll want it professionally welded on if you have no experience with welding to cast.

too much sugar and it just won't start. the point is for the sugar to make i tthrough the injectors...then the fun really begins :D 1 quart h20 to 1 cup sugar not that I'd know... :shake:

a whole axle, or an axleshaft?

good job :doh: I suggest selling the gears, getting a non-disco HP-30 and proper gears for it, then swapping evertyhing in and trussing it accordingly. someone is sure to be willing to GIVE you a hp30, or charge very little for it. matter of fact, if you can figure out a cheap way to ship an hp30, I have one stripped out ready to go that you can HAVE. it is a disconnect 30 but you can convert it to non-disco with a blockoff plate and a new seal put into the inside of the disco housing. the axle is literally bare. I can give you a good disconnect cover without vacuum motor as well. this would be superior to a non-disco 30 as it is a stronger pass. side UCA mount and can be trussed just the same -Pat

about nil. you need to kill the weeds before you plant the seeds. go to menards, lowes, home depot and ask them to explain different types of weed killer to you. seems I remember there being a product out there that you mix in with new grass seed in the spreader, that is supposed to target only weeds and allow new grass to grow. btw, jtdesigns' idea is probably the best. it'll choke out the life of the plants, and give you grass right away. you'll have to mow it slow with a push mower for awhile though until the seed takes root through the sod.

absolutely false 4 cyl ax5's remained 21 spline until at least 1996, and probably until 2001. the changeover year was 1990 for 4.0 equipped vehicles. so yes, 21 vs 23 spline does have something to do with 4cyl vs. 4.0 differences. anyways, all the OP needs to know is that he needs an np231 or np242 behind a 4.0, with matching spline count to his transmission. likewise with a 4 cylinder. be aware of spline count and choose your transmission accordingly. I personally would upgrade at least to a 231 with a 4 cylinder...207's are grenades waiting to go off if they're abused.

nope. a tiller will just displace the seads deeper in the dirt to resurface, meaning you'll need more weed killer in the future. by turf cutter I mean actually removing the first 1/2 to 1" of soil using what they use to cut turf (you know, the rolls of grass you can buy). I believe you can rent one...we had the luck of borrowing one from a friend. a tiller may work, when mixed with weed killer. or a hefty dose of weed killer as it is, wait for everything to die, and replant. obviously don't do this with a dog around in the back yard as they may eat some of the poison. if you decide to cut out the "intoxicated" turf, and only do half at a time, leave a barrier when you replant of about 2 to 4' between the front and back lawn where there is no seed planted. this will allow you to see any weeds looking to take over from the old lawn vs. what is new, and stop it early before it spreads. even that won't guarantee 100% effectiveness...seads do carry (dandylions) through the air as well.

I agree. you need to rent a turf cutter and remove the top 1" of soil and start over. we had those vines take over a house we were renting out and that was the best answer we could come up with. cut it out, apply fresh dirt to bring the lawn height up if you wish, and replant. as to whether or not to do front and back...that has no bearing in the process. you do it if you want to, as in...do you have time to do it all in one shot? then go ahead.

Pat, My speedo doesnt work but my odometer does. Even the trip counter works. I think I messed something up when I took it apart to switch the odom to the correct mileage. you unwound the spring inside of it then. pretty easy to just replace the gauge. I have a few around...got a pic of it? I can send ya the correct one.

i did that on my old XJ, too. only i did it in red...too lazy to mess with it right now on my truck. yeah too lazy here too. them gauges won't be in baby too long tho... :brows: