JeepcoMJ

From what I could tell, the VIN is IJTHL65I3GT069092 the I's could be 1's. I'm not sure. the vehicle appears to be abandoned. I need to know the previous owner, to see if I can get it. will carfax show that? by looking at it, it's an 86 4 cylinder 5 speed 4wd. From what I gathered from the place where it is sitting, and the local police office (though I for understandable reasons could not get a name), the owner is deployed in the Air Force. it's been sitting for at least 1 year and I think there's potential for acquiring it. it's a texas truck...rusted out driver's side floor board but otherwise rust free. Thanks, Pat

now is the time. you will have them off now, upgrade now. non-matching ports = absolutely SHOTTY performance. do it now and save the headache and potential leaks. I'll GIVE you a regular H.O. intake, and I'll also give you an exhaust manifold. the exhaust manifold is cracked but should be weldable.

nope, havent flexed it cause I need to redo all the shock mounts and add bumpstops. I thought about putting the reservoir up there, but I can't since I have a snorkel about to go on

oh, they'll bolt on. ...but the porting is nowhere near the same between renix and H.O. intakes

you'll need: aw4 floor shifter and transmission tunnel plate (the plate which mounts under the shifter) aw4 floor shifter cable aw4 floor shift transmission cable bracket aw4 floor shift transmission arm (this is what the cable connects to on the tranny) aw4 non-column shift steering column (you cannot remove the old one from the old column) aw4 floor shift safety cable (this goes from the floor shifter to the steering column) everything there is different from a column-shift setup. the swap will only take a couple hours...I just did it on my 87, but it was more difficult because everything was also upgraded to 1995 cherokee engine trans and wiring. So whats the differance between the steering column i have now with the ba-10 and the steering column for the aw4 on the floor? i didnt think i would have to chage that part. aside from the key retainer. it has some safety locks in it for the safety cable to attach to. it's not 100% necessary, if you're willing to live with being able to shift without the key turned to the on position. if you don't use the safety lock, you'll have to figure out how to "disarm" the other end of the safety cable by removing it and bypassing that part on the floor shifter (it's not as hard as it sounds) swapping the key retainer is a PITA if you're not swapping the column then don't bother with that.

I'll talk to TNT tomorrow. he has my 89 5 speed, which had cruise that worked great. I'll try and get that for you if you can't find it at the junkyard

yes, I've done it actually, if you have an automatic, I have a good complete cruise control system I don't need any more. remember, cruise control wiring etc. is different between auto and manual...with a 5 speed there is an extra cutout sensor on the clutch pedal, so you need the wiring to match that if you have a 5 speed

what you want for the WJ seats?

worth it. bolt-on. when you do it, you can't use the renix intake or exhaust manifolds anymore, however you can use any H.O. intake and exhaust. preferably upgrade to a 99+ 4.0 intake as well for an extra 15hp. then you'd have to either adapt the renix TB to the H.O. manifold, or adapt the renix TPS to the H.O. TB. the renix fuel rail will bolt on the H.O. manifold with no issues.

as for axles, $275 is still a great price. geonovast is just used to getting axles for next to nothing from me.

well, last I talked to him the truck is still there (has side impact driver's side on the B-pillar and rocker panel), it's running pretty bad (oil pressure issues) all the parts are gone...he had to toss them all out due to family issues. lol...

cool! don't forget to clean the NSS and lube it with plenty of dialectric grease before you put it back on

You might want the valve cover too. not to mention all electrical including speedo sensor and tranny harness and sensors, plus interior (dash) wiring and electronics. the newer (91+) wiring is absolutely NOT compatible with the older wiring. get it all or don't bother cause it will just become your biggest wiring nightmare Thats a 29 spline axle too then. :thumbsup: I'm guessing you will be looking at it in your driveway then. IIRC 29 spline was 98 or 97 and newer, not 96

my $300 head unit was stolen back in '04 when I was a junior in high school, out of my old vw cabriolet. 7 stereos stolen from 7 cars in the school parking lot in one day. cops didn't do $#!&. sucked since that was the first day of snow that year (1' easy), and they wrecked ALL of my hvac controls, headlight controls, gauge wiring, and switch wiring...fogged up like a mofo, no lights, and god knows what else was wrong with it. another kid found out which crack heads did it and beat the piss out of them before hauling their asses to jail (matched prints from cars).

I'm going to still disagree any point of saying it's guaranteed that they're 4.10's. it's a cherokee. nothing is guaranteed, and it will vary vehicle to vehicle.

1994 Jeep Eagle Data Book: Page JC7: These books are about the same size as a FSM, and have tons of details on each model. and were printed year to year, to inform the dealer of exactly what he'd be selling that year. The books & brochures I have from 93-97 all say the same thing in relation to 4cyl XJ gears. (4.11's w/5spds) Anything is possible, but as far as literature goes, the factory Data Books are usually about as accurate as you can get. I guess 3.55's could've been ordered behind a 4cyl/5spd as a regional thing (flatlands maybe?), or maybe you just got that unlucky to find two that had been swapped out. I know with the hills around here, a 4cyl XJ with 3.55's wouldn't be using overdrive 5th very much. oh, I agree that's what they should be. but apparently you haven't heard...jeep never was very "exact" in their available options. they liked to make customers happy...order what you will. I'm certain those cherokee axles weren't swapped...I even had the vins run, and 3.55's are what those two came with from factory (according to what used to be my local jeep corp) -Pat

$15 for proper perches, $50 or a couple cases of bear to have a local weld them on, figure out your new shock mounts, and your set. this is all remedial fabrication. easy as hell.

again, no guarantee on gears being 4.10's. I'm 0 for two. also, it's still a 21 spline t-case I'm 90% sure they didn't change anything in the ax5 except for the bearing sizes.

don't take that for set in stone. as I've said...both 94's I parted out were 4 cyl 5 speeds with only 3.55 gears. you'll need to look before you can guarantee it or you may come out disapointed. are you considering swapping to all 96 wiring etc. for the 4 cylinder? it's got decent power compared to the TBI setup

you'll need: aw4 floor shifter and transmission tunnel plate (the plate which mounts under the shifter) aw4 floor shifter cable aw4 floor shift transmission cable bracket aw4 floor shift transmission arm (this is what the cable connects to on the tranny) aw4 non-column shift steering column (you cannot remove the old one from the old column) aw4 floor shift safety cable (this goes from the floor shifter to the steering column) everything there is different from a column-shift setup. the swap will only take a couple hours...I just did it on my 87, but it was more difficult because everything was also upgraded to 1995 cherokee engine trans and wiring.

try putting it in any sort of cable, then let it sit a few weeks...try it once. I lost my front teeth (which are now fake) because my brake cables (2 weeks old and lubed with wd40) seized up at the skate park...not fun lol. get a box wrench (large wrench such as what you use on brake lines) and use that. much easier. or a vice grips. unscrew, then fix once it's off.

likely 3.55 all around regardless of 4 or 5 speed. of the two 4 cylinder 94's I've had, both were five speed and both had 3.55's

huh. and all they could manage was to get your faceplate?

Why no PB? :dunno: I used it on the 97XJ to get it off, one squirt, 5 secs, and it slid off. I wiped it off real quick and I had no problems, switch worked fine. it's meant to say to use pbblaster not wd40. wd40 promotes rust in tight spaces.

just ignore the sensor...it has no real function.