JeepcoMJ

yup, those coils are what you want. buy/make low profile (1/2" height from top of axle to top of spring perch) spring perches to keep yourself right around 5.5" or so of lift. you will also need adjustable control arms (upper and lower), or a set of drop brackets. With drop brackets, you can only use the bracket itself, not the reinforcement extension, as these are designed for a cherokee....comanche LCA (lower control arm) mounts are beefier than xj ones so only the drop itself will work. drop brackets would be nearly OK for 5.5" lift. you'll also need a trackbar (adjustable) and preferably not from Rusty's...I would buy an RK or RE track bar and the heavy duty (HD) trackbar upper bracket. then you just need sway bar links/disconnects.

torx head they just unscrew tradiationally (righty tighty lefty loosey) if it doesn't go in or out when turned...it's stripped.

haha, not as bad as that dumb@$$ with the 40' flatbed TONGUE not gooseneck trailer and 2wd fullsize chevy. that guy was a tool. it was real funny seeing the 4x4 chevy stuck spinning all 4 too :P

I would replace the chain now rather than later, since you're in there now. just to be safe. also, pick up a new pump filter screen for it.

RE is Rubicon Express RC is Rough Country OME is Old Man Emu RK is Rock Krawler much as I hate to add this one, MO is Motion Offroad.

Went to the jefferson swap meet today. it was miserable...soaked to the bone but we still toughed the whole 5 acres of crap for sale out :D picked up a wrangler (unknown classification i.e. yj tj cj) tuffy lock box WITH pioneer deck and remote for $75 to put in my wheeling truck after I mod it. and got my 97 header (in immaculate shape) with headlight buckets, turn signals, one bezel, and one side marker for $60. great since I have a grille and two bezels...now I just need one side marker and one fender (have driver's side fender that's a little wrinkled but repairable, thanks to $500MJ awhile back) also got two camo seat covers (match my headliner) for $2 each. the white appears a little pink though...so may have to rethink that lol. my brother bought 35x12.50 mud terrains (similar tread pattern to BFG) on cragar soft 8's with the right bolt pattern for $350 and got 4 KC fog lights as well for $5 each buddy bought a clevis and air horn under $20 JakeWI bought some hood vents (with drip trays) from something-or-other. they're larger than lebaron vents, but look nicer and still should fit with proper trimming, for $15, and a spare 31x10.50 bfg a/t for his XJ good day. I'll post pics of my junk and my bro's soon, and nab some pics of the hood vents once I figure out what they're off of and we install them.

I drove it to the jefferson swap meet developed death wobble....gonna remove EVERYTHING in the front end and start over with fresh joints everywhere, and finally put the AGR steering box in. while I'm doing that (several weeks away) I'll sand a different header panel for ot that's not pitted so bad, and paint the truck. also gonna plate the frame at least on the driver's side. anyways, picked up a wrangler (unknown classification i.e. yj tj cj) tuffy lock box WITH pioneer deck and remote for $75, and got my 97 header (in immaculate shape) with headlight buckets, turn signals, one bezel, and one side marker for $60 my brother bought 35x12.50 mud terrains (similar tread pattern to BFG) on cragar soft 8's with the right bolt pattern for $350 and got some KC fog lights as well.

lol. well, I'm sorry for your loss. :P however, your loss (being a ford guy) is my gain....more chevys and dodges for me :P I'm just messin with ya man lol

man, it looks nice. but...I can't wait to see the day when "ford" is no longer in your vocabulary. stupid ford stealing the cummins contract...

removed shock boots, cleaned interior, began acquiring what I'll need for painting it, and put the sway bar back on with a couple new pins for the RC disconnects. but now I'm thinking of grabbing hardware to pop my 4.5" JKS quiker discos on it...need to mod them to fit.

plug for tail lights would either be under towards the rear, or behind the left tail light.

remounted the front bumper, discovered that repairing the frame cracks didn't stop the popping. then discovered that the popping is actually two different things: 1....only one bolt holding the column to the firewall. so it twists and the steering shaft pops. 2....the steering box is probably fubar'd. I just don't feel like adapting my pump right now to put the AGR box in. grabbed my plasma cutter back from my grandpa so I can put a hole in the passenger coil bucket for the bumpstops. wired my CB straight to the battery pulled the dash bezel out so I can put my external CB speaker where the cigarette lighter is. gonna relocate the cig. lighter to the knee board and add a second one in today, then call it good.

I've got an 80 scout 44 here...it's going to the scrapper soon as I pull the carrior and pinion. they're 2" narrower combined so a set of 5x5 (or 5x5.5 idk) x4.5 1" spacers will be needed. it seems like a sound axle...I just don't want it lol.

makes your bumpstops work, helping control up-travel so you don't put tires into the fenders etc. and wreck them.

bumper can stay on. spare tire you just need to remove the vertical bolts going into one of the bed's braces. there should be two of them...they're right in front of the rear valance that's behind the bumper

I think it's the 6.5" coils actually...

did that. even did that with the body supported 3 feet higher than normal on a set of tractor split-stands, and the axle won't droop far enough even with the driver's side jacked up.

That's a decent possibility. We would likely be coming through that area between 2 & 4 PM on the 23rd. We typically drive to Beckley, WV and stop for the night. ugh. I don't like WV anymore....my ears still hurt (which amazes me since I scuba) from all the ups and downs in the mountains two weeks ago. beckley wasn't too bad tho...

that's what I was afraid of. I think I'll weld the bolt in to the coil bucket instead....

letting him sit on it. he is incredulous about me asking what his bottom line is...seems to think that $1300 invested a YEAR ago makes it worth $1200 still. He's intelligent enough to know that there is value in the parts...but also intelligent enough to know what a junk yard would offer him for it. I asked a junkyard what they'd pay for a jeep in it's shape, they said they can only do $300. I'm going to offer $650 after I let him sit on it for a week and then tell him what the junkyard told me they'd pay for it if he says no. there are no other jeepers in the area who'd buy it, and save selling it to some idiot who doesn't speak english, he's not gonna sell it...it's not repairable except to make a beater offroad rig. plus...I exhausted my funds. bought another comanche yesterday

I'm bumpstopping the front of my jeep, using hockey pucks (as many have before me and many will continue to do). picked up 19 hockey pucks to have spares and some for future projects...at 97 cents each it was worth it to clear Dick's sporting goods inventory. anyways, I got the driver's side pucks in no problem. drilled them, countersunk the top one to put the bolt through so that the factory bumpstop will hit the pucks not the bolts. BUT...I can't get into the passenger side to drill the hole in the coil bucket. I've tried everything short of removing all the parts to take the coil out...long bit from the bottom through the hole for the trackbar bolt nut, get a drill in through the top, torch... nothing will fit anywhere without removing the coil...and I don't have time to pull the coil right now, because I'd have to chock the body up on stands and remove half of the parts holding it together, and I'm working on a steering box brace. I also need to put the front bumper back on after I finish the frame repair...uniframe rail cracked @ bumper mounts and was part of my suspension popping issue. anyone ever do this? how did you drill the coil buckets?

I'm with Wade. goblazers, stop filling the thread with your worthless crap. anyways, I picked up 19 hockey pucks (future use) and am doing my front bumpstops today. last night, while diagnosing my popping steering, I discovered some crackes in the uniframe rail on the driver's side and deduced that they are to blame....so pulled the bumper off and started making a steering box brace, then I'm gonna stop-drill the cracks, weld them, and plate the inside of the frame rail where the cracks are.

are you not running a dash? also, it appears your fusebox is upside down/has the gauges facing the wrong way? and...why on earth did you cut into the trans hump right there for that setup?! you're gonna HATE it being there if you ever have to swap a trans. Edit: I take that last one back...thats a helluva optical illusion

Do as Pete says. if it isn't salvagable otherwise....post it up for sale on naxja when you're done raping it. plenty of guys on naxja will want the rear cab section and the tail light section/bedrails for a cheromanche project. you just say that they have to take the whole truck (unless you're willing to cut out what they need...in which case you'll have cut it down most likely enough to scrap w/o title). And you'll probably make more money that way than with what scrap prices are currently.

lol. I didn't say it would be rare...I just like the color. the only other thing I thought of painting it was a semi-gloss military green and putting a shark mouth on the fenders and grille like an old war plane. but, I'm not military so I thought that would be somewhat disrespectful...and it would also look tacky on a ground vehicle. plus...most of my stuff ends up being "nice" so I figured it would keep that theme going.