JeepcoMJ

haha, you no someone named morris. Morris is his last name. it's still funny as hell.

yeah. I just based my interpretation on how he worded it...a clutch denotes stick shift, whereas a clutchpack denotes auto....you never just replace "a clutch" in an auto....always replace all of them when rebuilding, for proper wear-in pattern. plus his sig says his truck is on dana 35's so I just made a judgement call that he probably mixed up the ax15 and aw4

umm. aw4 is automatic trans. that would imply clutches not "clutch". pretty sure you're thinking of an ax15.

haha, you no someone named morris.

talked to a guy interested in the 87. may be w/o a wheeling truck soon. that's ok tho. got my eye on a 90's 2 door white xj with low miles for a wheeler. I'd rather beat up an xj...

verified. the 97 interior wiring, especially gauges, WILL NOT work unless you are running a COMPLETE 97+ system. this inculdes engine, transmission, and all sensors etc. that come with it. the 97+ gauges are NOT operated directly off of sensors...the sensors instead are routed through the engine computer for it to interpret them and convert them for the gauges to work. that said, you WON'T be able to make the 97 gauges work without the 97 engine computer and running systems plus motor and trans. no way around it.

moved it and gave the POS a nasty look. then moved my 89 and my bro's 86 and had a guy drop off a dumpster to throw away all of my scrap metal parts into. dumped one good 4.0, one 2001 4.0 with a cracked head and piston, a crappy 2.8, a few dana 35's, 5 n207's, a set of turbine rims with crappy tires, set of front fenders, a bunch of wiring harnesses, etc. so far doing good. he would only take the aluminum rims w/ tires so I need to get rid of all the other steelies...3 sets w/ crappy tires and 2 sets of crappy tires off rims tomorrow. now I only have a bunch of alfa romeo parts, some doors and hoods, two dana 30's and two chryco 8.25's as well as a bunch of shelled out ax4's and ax5's. on a rainy day I'll build a few good trannies and sell them off. also have an ax15, two np242's and one np231. good day. I'm quite happy to be dumping off all these parts....it has gotten to a point where my "friends" who I basically GIVE parts to get mad when I tell them that they have to come on my time schedule for parts. so F*CK 'em. no more parts for them, and minimal parts for me.

I was lookin at one couple years ago...guy thought it was gold. I really just wanted it for parts since it wasn't great. told me they're rare etc. and that you can't even find a tailgate for them anymore. went and grabbed his sledgehammer, bashed my tailgate in, and said "no biggy, I have 5 more". gave him my number and left. three days later I picked it up for $100...and showed up to pick it up with the same truck and a "new" tailgate on it. (in my defense, I had bent my tailgate already with a bale of round hey and it was rusty...so a dent wasn't gonna make a difference)

Those have got to be the sexiest hood vents I've seen on a Comanche. What are they off? early 90's Lumina Z34 X2 I owned a 1991 Z34 they are 2 doors with spoilers and 3.4 engine. well no offense but they're ooogly. at least in white. if the front bumper was actually painted up black, header panel properly to match the chief stripes, and hood vents in black, then it would be kosher with me lol

3.4 is the least involved. closely followed by a 4.0 being the second least involved. follow those links and I'm sure you'll find a list of what needs to be changed. to answer another question you had a few posts back...no, you cannot take any 4.0 liter transmission and bolt it to the 2.8 liter...the bellhousings are different. HOWEVER, if you have a cherokee 4.0 automatic (aw4) and a cherokee 2.5 (4 cylinder) automatic (if it's an aw4 which is a high possiblity) bellhousing and torque converter from 1987-1989, then you can put that bellhousing plus tc onto the 4.0 aw4 and use that aw4 behind your 60 degree bellhousing pattern 2.8 liter v6. only downside of that is you'd have to get the brettM aw4 manual shift kit, since there's really no good way to make the aw4 electronic wiring work out for you...it would require alot of splicing and even then the shift rpm's would be incorrect. you could also take a 4.0 liter ax15 with a late 80's early 90's dodge dakota 5 speed (ax15) bellhousing and throw that in behind your 2.8 liter.

correy, oil pressure should be around 35-40 @ idle with a renix, 45-60 @ running rpm. 70= not good.

union = safety, guaranteed check, and comfortable living that combination makes fat, lazy, selfish people. the end is that people DON'T work their share, DON'T care about the company, and essentially rob them. now us guys who are not union, bust our @$$. I work hard as hell for a measly $12/hour installing coke machines in the McDonalds. one of our competitors (also non-union) pays $22/hour to do the same thing. BUT they're not local, and have a bad reputation for installs and service (at least around here). I'd go over there, but I enjoy feeling like I earned my money. Union inspires the enjoyment of getting money, and the self-satisfaction of having the upper hand, and the knowledge that you don't have to work as hard because there is nothing your employer can do because all you have to do is call the union. BTW my brother is union. even union guys joke around about things like "how many union guys does it take to change a light bulb?....as many as you can get". Sure, it's a good thing for some places but for most, the end result is less productivity at more employer cost. no friggin wonder chrysler is going under.

Yeah, I don't think you would either Dr. Bob. But SW2 would. He's been in Cali waaay too long. :brows: that's what I'm saying...Sunshine is from Cali-forn-ia....he's a californian.... I think we should redub SW2 as "Sunshine" in memory of the Titans...

oh. well then no. the stroker turbo is cool, but any other styles are ghey

they would have given you 3k off regardless. they're desperate right now.

it could have a dana 44 rear though, however unlikely.

JUST had this problem a couple weeks ago. my CPS wire melted to the exhaust manifold. when it got hot, it would do exactly what you're explaining (only because it's auto would just cut out, stay out until pop to neutral and then work when started but fail til cooled then get about another 200 feet.) CPS

:wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :fs1: :fs1: :headpop: :mad: :nuts: :no: :ack: :dunno: dude. why? they can't have offered you much for an MJ. after all, they are a stealership and have no concept of what the MJ is really worth (at least as trade-in). and now, someone who probably won't appreciate the truck is going to buy it and likely send it down the to the s-crap pile eventually.

if it's any concern...running mid-octane is better than low octane in most situations. I run 89 octane religiously in the 4.0 liter 87 comanche (it's also got some performance mods tho), and I refuse to run anything but 91 octane in the 3800. convenient for me since no one else buys that.

successfully recovered my friend's cherokee...which easily weighs 1000 lbs more than my truck with the exo cage, winch, etc. on it. my tires were bald. also, not so succesfully, attempted to recover a full size 90's bronco, which weighs 5800lbs. the rescue truck was stupid and had bald tires, so he got stuck trying to get to the property we were at (friend's house near his field). go figure, it's a ford. then on the way out, I got stuck...everyone was attempting to get the "rescue vehicle" un-stuck, so I figured I'd rock it out. I did, but it seems like it may have cost me an aw4. so, looks like we may be able to chalk up an aw4 to my long list of blown transmissions :clapping: the trans is draining now, I will be flushing it and putting lucas trans fluid in to see if I can get her to make it a while longer. was real doggy on the way out lol. *shrug*

a pic would be nice to base our opinion on...?

They definitely aren't short, so what are they? :dunno: Willy they are a y-link suspension. a long arm suspension consists of 3 (three link long arm) or 4 (four link long arm) arms, mounted to 4 seperate frame locations.

yup. I get 29mpg in my 86 with the 96 camaro 3800 in it when I run non-ethanol. the 87 (wheeling truck) gets 24ish mpg with non-ethanol and a 4.0 liter

lol. well the puuuuuuurfect unit is the 3800. which, you particularly will be happy to know, will be chromed out. it will eventually have home-built bumpers on it similar to ARB styling, but for now chrome chrome chrome. black paint BTW. I need to keep a wheeling rig though. I don't enjoy smoking every little import I come up against with the 3800 nearly as much as I enjoy wheeling. But I'd cringe wheeling if my wheeling rig were as nice as 89eliminator's every time I took it offroad :rotf:

to make the radiator fit. there is zero way to make the 4.0 radiator fit in an 86 without swapping the core support. it also is what the 4.0 hood latches mount to. it's really not hard...like 13 spot welds each side. and before you ask, nope, can't use an 86 radiator or hood at all...the 4.0 wouldnt even fit with where that's positioned in the engine bay. as far as the front crossmember, it is the lower mount for the 4.0 radiator. you could probably leave your 86 crossmember in, and weld risers with brackets on that for the 4.0 radiator to mount. if you're worried about paint on the hood, you could *theoretically* cut the notches for the 4.0 hood latches out in it and tap the two mounting holes for them, without affecting the outside paint (if you're careful). then you'd just bolt the 4.0 hood safety latch to the 86 hood...and yes, that part is a bolt-on.