Minuit

This is one of those "ask 10 people, get 20 different opinions" questions, like asking "what's the best oil". I've been very impressed with the noise and comfort performance of Michelin Defender LTXs on my '91. They're much quieter than the out of round Cooper Discoverers they replaced and made the truck feel more secure. Good road manners is my primary goal for that build, but you'd expect good road manners when you pay the price Michelin asks for them. Now I'm in no position to claim they're better than anything, but they make me happy.

It probably doesn't. That reservoir is used for the climate control and other vacuum operated accessories, but it's also used for cruise control if you have it.

Perhaps it's more accurate to say that the ECU's "desired" RPM doesn't change, it just has to open the IAC a little more to compensate for the added load.

Don't think I've ever noticed this on my '91. Totally different system, but still. The idle doesn't really seem to change when the compressor kicks on. I've had other cars (my Thunderbird comes to mind) that noticeably bump up the idle, but never on my MJ. I'd say as long as it doesn't bog down, nothing to worry about.

I think it might be a model year thing. My non-cruise 91 has the football. My non-cruise 89 has the grapefruit.

RockAuto for common stock replacement parts. Morris 4x4, Quadratec, or 4WD Parts for certain things. I've used a site called Mopar Parts Overstock for discontinued dealer parts with some success before. Team Cherokee if you're really desperate and are willing to put up with slow shipping and spotty customer service. Hard to beat a parts manual and some detective skills for the weird stuff.

The fact that it's suddenly begun working makes it even more likely that it has bad solder joints. It'll stop working again soon. The display doesn't light up because the lightbulbs behind the screen are blown out. The DX button just changes how sensitive the SEEK function is. It only picks up strong stations when DX is off, and when it's on it will pick up less strong stations. I produce owner's manuals for some versions yet, but not that one. You've pretty much discovered all its secrets so far, but it doesn't seem to me like that radio is worth hanging onto in its current state. Sounds like it's sick.

At first I thought so too. After looking at a few I'm pretty sure someone consciously chose to make the buttons that awful shade of sickly brown.

Send me a pic of it. If you're replacing it I might be interested in taking it off your hands for parts.

Either bad tactile switches or bad solder joints on the faceplate, maybe a dicey ribbon cable, but the display would probably act up too if that happened. Not uncommon. If the radio has brown button labels, it's not worth repairing even for the most minor issues. If it has white buttons, depends on what you want to do. Another factory single DIN Jeep radio from 1988-1996 will slot right in. Within that year range there are a bunch of variations, but all are interchangeable. Some had clocks, some didn't. Don't buy one with brown labels on the buttons. I will obviously have a certain amount of bias here, but you might be pleasantly surprised. Old factory Jeep radios have more in common with aftermarket headunits than you might realize. They do not have enough power to cope with your average undeadened tin can MJ's high speed road noise, but literally no car headunit ever made does. If you look at my vendor page, I have a few recordings of my setup in my truck playing music from the Youtube audio library... for whatever that would tell you (not much). Ignore all of that if it has brown buttons. Those sound awful.

Rule 1 of electrical diagnosis: when in doubt, find documentation. If you look up the model number of your radio you can almost always find a PDF owners manual telling you what the wires do

Yeah, sounds like you've got the power antenna wire hooked up to the amp instead of the remote turn-on.

Most aftermarket headunits these days have separate tone (including subwoofer volume) controls for aux and radio, usually buried under menus. Other than the headunit settings, I can't think of any reason your sub would only work on AM/FM and not aux. What is the exact make and model of this headunit? Can you feel the cone of the sub moving at all if you lightly touch your finger to it? Just for poops and laughters: does the light on the sub stay on when you're in aux mode?

The "adapter" I refer to is already attached to the US speedometer. You just need to put it on the UK one. Near the bottom of this page where I start talking about radios

Check your email

You'll pretty much completely drain the system as soon as you take the hose off, so have a couple gallons of coolant on hand. You'll get most of it in one replacement, but to be sure you get all of the old coolant out you'll probably want to drain the fluid again shortly after. You will want to transfer the protective sleeve. Don't forget the spring inside of the old hose, it will also need to be transferred over. That one's kind of a pain.

If I'm remembering correctly, a friend of mine from high school had this truck. Good to see it stay in the family!

Looks like you've created a good life for yourself Knucklehead

Yeah, you might want to check the relays. Some of those harnesses come with some nasty relays. I swapped the relays in mine out with some nice OEM relays and always keep a spare around. That's the only thing that could almost be called a downside of adding the relay harness - you've added a single point of failure that can shut down your high beams or low beams. Course, your headlight switch catching on fire might shut down more than just your headlights.

I don't know. I've just never had trouble seeing the gauges at night, and I usually dim them once my eyes are adjusted. Never have to do any more than glance at the gauges to see them perfectly. I'm slightly far-sighted - maybe that helps? Dunno. That comment about tires wasn't aimed at you and I didn't mean to chastise your tire choice. I had a set of the previous generation Wranglers on my truck for a while and while I thought they were kinda loud and not really excellent at anything in particular, I have to say they got the job done. The Michelins I run these days have better wet traction and run quieter, but they are 235s instead of 215s.

As some of the others have said I'd be more worried about the tailgate itself bending if too much weight is put on it rather than the straps breaking. I think it's probably stronger than most people give it credit for, but if there was any doubt I'd just take the tailgate off. Don't want to risk messing up a tailgate for no reason. Easy enough to do, and gives you a chance to hit the hinges with some lube.

Am I the only one here who doesn't have a problem seeing the stock dash lights at night? I think having them glowing some bright color would take away from my night vision way more than it would help me see the gauges. I've done my time with cheap tires. Never again. The amount of cars I see on the road with those crappy bottom of the barrel Chinese tires on them makes me more than a little nervous. Not to mention the ticking time bombs that like to "get their money's worth" out of their tires and run them till the cords show.

I took a peek through the '91 FSM and it looks to me like the '91 speedometer is electrically independent of the ECU (the VSS output leads to splice G7 which branches off to the ECU, cluster, and some other things). That's only part of the problem, and I very strongly doubt that the HO speedometer would fit in a Renix cluster, not to mention that the Renix cluster has a different connector for the gauges and obviously won't have any of the traces on the PCB for the electronic speedometer. Not saying it's impossible, but it would definitely require some custom work. Also, the VSS changed in '93 from a two-wire reed switch to a three wire sensor which I know nothing about. The clusters are compatible from 91-96 though.

You still got my number? I can send you some of the wiring diagrams if you want.