Minuit

That one thing alone ruins it.

That looks uncannily like my writing. Guess my penmanship sucks too (not that that's news)

Looks like a great find. Love the interior on these, the Limited interior was always my favorite. :thumbsup:

That's certainly a very weirdly equipped SporTruck. Subscribed :thumbsup:

Another interested 2WD owner here. Keep us updated. You're lucky. I drive an hour each way to get to my favorite junkyard. The JY in town wanted $500+exchange for an 8.25 and forever lost my business after that. Shame, because he had 3 MJs last time I was there.

No pics, but there's a half-circle shaped sheet metal piece that goes around the curved part of the rear oil pan. If it's left out there will be a significant leak at the rear of the engine.

$5500 for that gem is an absolute bargain. Would've been nice if it would've gone to a good home for that price rather than some dealer.

Just for reference, $25,082 in 1991 dollars is $44,000 in 2015 dollars. These things were not cheap. edit: lol at the "adjustable headreats" on the build sheet.

This is definitely one that deserves to get fixed up. Can't wait to see how it turns out :thumbsup:

Considering the reserve, probably not at all. That doesn't take away from its purdy-ness though. If I had it it would sit in the garage for fear of me putting a dent or scratch into it.

I'm not usually a fan of black wheels, but this... this is very nice.

Do you know what type of seal was used? There is a double-lip seal available (it's the Fel-Pro one) that seals more reliably. Do you see a semicircle shaped piece of metal going across very back of the oil pan? It's there for a reason - to put more pressure on the very back part of the oil pan gasket where there are no bolts. If it's not there it will cause a leak. I know of no retorquing done after the fact for anything other than lug nuts. Check for loose bolts. Also check for oil running down the block from elsewhere and dripping at the RMS area.

For reference, this is the exact same vibration I posted about a year and a half ago. It has not gotten any better or worse since then. Since then, the following driveline-related work has been done to no change in the vibration. - Tires repeatedly balanced, once using a Hunter road-force balancer equipped shop - Driveshaft U-Joints replaced by machine shop - Tires rotated after 5,000 miles by me. They appear to be wearing fine and they do not have any visible defects. Necessary information: '91 4.0, 2WD, shortbed, D35 with multiple bad bearings, no lift. Cooper Discoverer A/T3 tires with roughly 5,500 miles. Tires were rotated by me about a month ago. I have been fighting an intermittent driveline vibration in my truck for almost 2 years now. This vibration occurs at any speed above about 60 mph and does not depend on throttle position or gear (no change when coasting in neutral). The vibration is completely intermittent and seemingly random (although turning does seem to make it either get better or worse) - I can hold a speed for 10 minutes and have it change multiple times between jarring and perfectly smooth without doing anything on my part. The vibration occurs in the entire cab and does not seem to come from one side or single area of the truck. It is felt both in the seat and steering wheel. I have watched the truck drive on the highway and had others do the same - from the outside nothing looks to be wrong from any angle. People have told me it could be anything from a bad transmission mount to a bent wheel. I suspect driveshaft balance but I have no evidence to back this up. I'm tired of diagnosing and throwing parts and work at this problem. This is one of the last issues this truck has. It needs to go away. It's keeping me from enjoying driving my truck.

Did he not replace the RMS? Where is it leaking from? If your friend didn't replace the half-moon thing on the back of the oil pan it's very likely it will leak.

I almost feel like this deserves its own thread at this point...

:cheers: :typing:

Colored swooshes! Blue: Dark Grey: Green: Hot Pink (Don, you need to do this):

That's very easy to do. Will have a few options soon.

Ladies (do any ladies follow this thread? Probably not) and gentlemen, we now have... a TACH! ...and a CLOCK! ... and some other things. More detailed writeup coming soon, probably the day after tomorrow. I have quite a bit to cover. Initial impressions are that this motor doesn't spin nearly as fast as it sounds like it does. It almost never goes above 2500 RPM in city driving and if I really get on it, the AW4 shifts at just over 4k. I am running 235/75/15 tires, so it is geared down a bit from stock, though. Temp and oil pressure gauges are currently non-functional. Still need to get the senders for those. Also the odometer is off by exactly 12k miles so I still need to get a speedo to reflect the truck's actual mileage as soon as I have a couple bucks. I think I can hear an exhaust leak at about 2-3k RPM. I'll make a recording of the sound to get a second opinion later.

Forget what I said about two tone being maximum '80s... that's painfully '80s. Think you could do something similar on Don's truck? You know... just for fun. :D Same stripes only dark gray. Curious minds need to know. I'll give it a shot, but no guarantees I can get done with it very fast. Quite busy with non-photoshop stuff ATM.

Any plans for it?

Forget what I said about two tone being maximum '80s... that's painfully '80s.

If you're keeping the topper, A or C leaning towards C for maximum '80s. Too much silver on B, it needs to be broken up with something. B without the topper. Whoever made those pictures done good :D

4-banger with an auto... yuck. (but hey, 4.56s!) I think we've been posting this truck every week or so for the past year. It's never gonna sell.

I think that's true of all leaf spring vehicles - I've considered just keeping a couple hundred pounds of stuff in my bed just to get a little bit better ride :yes: About the only thing I enjoy about helping people move...