johnj92131

As has been posted, the 252 Buick V6 was offered in 1980-84 and as a big bore version of the 231/3800 of the Buick V6. In addition there are a number of later changes in the Buick V6 that could be interesting. Another closely related engine that used to be a hot swap to a Jeep in the 60's and 70's is the aluminum 215 cubic inches Buick-Olds-Pontiac V8 that the Buick V6 came directly from. This 215 cu. in. engine was later purchased for use in the Land Rover. It evoloved to a total displacement of 4.6 liters in Rover form and up to 5.2 liters in modified form. Another variation of the same engine took place in Austrailia. This started out as a raised block version of the same engine and has been stroked with a Buick 350 crank to over 340 cubic inches with a total engine weight of near 350 lbs. Yes, lots of work needed. But lots of cubic inches for very little weight. Add modern EFI for a great perfomance improvement A long time friend has a 66 Corvair with this 215 V8 engine in the rear and I can tell you it moves the 2700 lbs Corvair very well and can get 25 to 27 mpg on the road. (Yes, I have driven on a 1600 mile trip with him and actually got 27 mpg for the entire trip many years ago). This could be a VERY interesting swap into a Comanche. Get 250 plus lbs off the front end, add 90 to 100 cubic inches to displacement, all with small valve low end torque heads. Did I tell you that the cast iron version of this V8 was offered in the 1970's as a Jeep factory option? It is true. Would this be as good a swap as an aluminum block late model Chevy? Not sure. Would have to look hard at an all aluminum, 6 speed , 4 x 4 automatic. Perhaps a 4.8 Chevy v8???? Anyway, Food for thought if you are looking at a 90 degree Buick V6. Still, the best choice may be a Supercharged V6 with an R700-4 automatic transmission. JJ JJ

I found several 88-90 and a 94 on Saturday, all from 2 doors. but no 91-93. I will keep looking a little longer - then I will make the 4 door harness work.

Why do I want to take them off? Found a very badly smashed up 2 door Cherokee with gray bucket seats. The plastic trim pieces are in good shape - I want to salvage those parts. That is all I can reach - the car is badly folded up.

Looking for the wiring harness in the drivers door from a 91 - 93 (?) 2 door Cherokee. Found a couple of 94's at the local Pick ur Part. So far no 91-93 yet. Anyone have one for sale?? Thanks, JJ

Perhaps the wron title. How do I remove the small plastic "cap" on the "handle" used to release the seat back to fold forward? Know it is held in by a small diameter pin and that pin has to be pulled out to remove the "cap". But how do I pull that pin? What kind of a tool is required Thanks for the assistance. JJ

Factory metric ton/big ton package had 5 leaf springs plus the Dana 44 and automatic transimession. Understand there were two versions of the 5 leaf spring packs. My 91 Commanche was factory equiped with the with the "Big Ton" package - same thing as the 'Metric Ton" package. Yes, I Have the original window sticker! jj

Great pictures and great detail! You seen to have done a number of these seats, so I will ask a few questions to pick your brain. Can we "convert" a 4 door seat over to a 2 door, tilt forward seat IF we have a broken down 2 door seat? Sounds like this would be a "frame" issue. Next, concerning the bucket seat backs. The Jeep Laredo had a special "wing back", meaning more chair back warp around near the kidneys than the normal seat. I want to "convert" the 4 door version of this seat to a 2 door version for my Comanche. Found a fantastic pair of these "Wing back" 4 door seats and a good version of the "non wing back seats" from a 2 door Cherokee. My question is should I pay $100 total for both pairs of bucket seats, in hopes of getting one great set of 2 door "wing backs" from the 4 seats? Or should I look for a Dakota bench/bucket seat with the center fold down console that is a BIG step above the Comanche bench or bucket. But the colors are a problem for the door panels. Any additional insight you can provide would be great. JJ

Thanks to all for the responses. It is what I thought. The trailer in question is a 24 ft Hi-Lo with full electric brakes. And I do use an equalizing trailer hitch. The trailer can be 4500 lbs (plus) when fully loaded. The Comanche has the Big Ton package, which includes bigger rear brakes. The truck is factory rated to tow 5k lbs as delivered with an equalizing hitch. For what ever it is worth, the truck is about 3700 lbs on a certified scale.

My Comanche is a 2 wheel drive automatic with the factory "metric tom/big ton" package. Rear end ratio is 3.54. I want tow a 5K lbs trailer with the truck all over North America. That means over the Rockies at 12,200 feet and anything else that comes along in Canada or Alaska. In the past, I have used a 2WD V6 Isuzu Rodeo with a manual 5 speed and a 4.30 rear end. My current tow vehicle is a 4WD V6 Rodeo with a 4 speed auto and a 4.10 rear end. I am looking at converting my Comanche to 4x4. Here is my question: Is there a jeep 4x4 system that will let me shift from 4x4 Low to 4x4 high and then to 4x2 while I am still driving down the road? I am looking to be able to start in 4x4 low range going up a steep hill and move onto the freeway with out stopping. Thanks for your assistance.

Is there a new phone number for JCR Offroad? I could not connect today from the phone number on the web site. Problem may be on my end with a long distance provider. JJ

Jim, What is the tailgate from on the last pictures (with the large "J"). And how much work was it to put on the Comanche?

Can I swap 17 inch wheels and 225/75 x 17 tires from a 2009 Wrangler on to my stock 91 Commanche? Anyone know if they are a direct fit? Thanks,

Two weeks ago at a local yard, a fellow told me he found a 2001 Expedition better than the one he was driving. Outside and inside it looked great. JJ

The speedo changed with the 1991 model year.

I am not an off the road guy. Have no interest in it. Sorry, figured you needed to hear from somebody besides the off roaders. Regards, JJ

As usual, Hornbord has posted a great, factual post. Only, (I think) two ways to tighten the turning radius. Shorten the wheel base or move the steering wheels into a tighter lock position. Not talking about a 4 wheel steering Moon Buggy built by NASA that could turn INSIDE its own wheel base. I will add that to my future upgrade lists. Then I can turn the truck around in the street without backing up. JJ 91 Long Bed Comanche, Base truck with Big Ton package, all heavy duty options from the factory! Original, Southern California Truck with no rust!!

Congratulations!!! My first real job, after I got out of the Army in 1969 was with a company called NCG (National Cylinder Gas). Otherwise known as NCG (Nice, Clean Guys). Right!!

The price of tires has gone crazy over the last few years (or maybe it is just I am getting old). I replaced 2 tires on the truck just last month. Got 2 Kumho Solus KR21, size 235/75 x 15 at $61 each plus all the extras. Total was about $82 each tire. These tires are rated 680 A B. Translation = 85,000 mile life. Yes, they are built in Viet Nam by a Korean company. BUT, comparable U.S. built tires would have been $50 per tire more. Yes, I looked. Purchased them at Discount Tire/Tire America. These tires are more than I will ever need to fully load the Comanche truck, equipped with the BIG Ton package and towing a 5000 lbs trailer. Yes, I know they were not made in the USA. But I am by choice an American and believe the economic thoughts of that GREAT Scottish economist, Adam Smith. Also a SCOT by birth! JJ

One of the tricks I recall for pre-oiling a new engine was to use a wood dowel in an electric drill to run the oil pump without moving the engine. The wood dowel drove the oil pump when the distributer was removed. Another think is that you might want to take some very light weight oil and fill the cylinder with it from the spark plug hole. Over time the light oil should erain past the rings and coat the cylinder bore. Still, I have to think turning the oil pump with and electric drill and hand cranking the engine may be the best, easy way to take care of the problem.

Eagle is correct. Your assumption is that we have the same engine rpm, at the same road speed, under both setups. That means that 4th gear and a 3.08 final drive is exactly equal to 5th gear and a 4.10 final drive. So, same over all gearing and the same engine rpm equals exactly the same results. Don't change the over all gears and put your foot to the floor and you will get EXACTLY the same results. Comes down to one of Newtons Laws of Motion like F = M x V squared JJ

Yes, the hitch does not care about the length of the bed.

Sorry, I really can not see the 92 becoming much more of a collectors item than an 88 or a 91. Yes, if you are interested in a Comanche to collect the 92 would be newer and maybe better. But most of the folks here seem to want off the road trucks to use and "abuse" on the trails. Take if from me, after an accident, the insurance companies claim they are all just "old trucks" not worth much. Take a real, hard look at the 92 and see everything it needs. Do the same for the truck you have and KNOW. Will bet your current truck is a better deal. Now granted, I have a 91, rust free original Southern California truck with a long bed and a Big Ton package, trailer hitch and a bunch of other goodies, like a full bench seat and column shifter. For a few dollars, I can have bucket seats and a full time 4X4 drive train. So that may color my judgement. BTW, while I was looking for a Comanche, I passed on a 92 long bed 4X4 because it was red.

Visited 3 or 4 yards over the Labor Day weekend. Each yard seemed to have LOTS of inventory - including CFC vehicles. Every thing but the engine was for sale. Those seemed to be painted green. Found a nice, straight 87 Comanche that was a CFC trade. I took the inside lights and left the good, rear fender flares. Scored a nice pair of buckets a couple of weeks earlier. Anybody need a good set of tail lights? Let me know.

Take some time and look on Craigs List or on Ebay. I just got a set of factory manuals for the Comanche on EBay for $75.00

My first car was an automatic, 1953 Studebaker Land Cruiser. Just the way it came and the best car I could find for $175. After that came a long string of manual transmissions - including my first new car in 1969. Had several Automatics along the way. My wife and my kids all new how to drive a stick shift by the time the were 17. At this point, I just shift gears automatically anyway. No matter what the transmission. My ear hears the engine, the right hand moves the gear shift and the left foot moves the clutch, all automatically. Becomes a bit of a problem when there is no clutch . My girlfriend (wife passed away) has never driven a stick shift in her life, save one lesson I gave her several months back. My current fleet is a 1996 Passat TDI wagon - 5 speed manual, 1991 Comanche 4 speed auto, 2000 Isuzu Rodeo 4 speed auto (replaced my 1998 Rodeo 5 speed manual after an accident). Her car is a 2003 4 cyl Toyota Camry - got 28 to 32 mpg on a recent 3500 mile trip - just a tad over 30.0 over all average. - And we moved with traffic on I-5. Means 75+ all day, all night (Anita complained when I got over 90).