johnj92131

Jeepman is the fellow to talk to. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=24055&p=249546&hilit=dakota#p249546 That may be the thread you read. But check Ebay for gas tanks. think there is an 18 gal. tank available Also, think the 13.5 gal tank info is wrong.

Still no takers and another price drop $2500 and will trade also. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/2031107124.html Don, Are you still interested?

Actually not talking about a factor cargo bed light. Intend to be a "in the shell" light at the rear door Make sense? And... since this frosty Miller took my edge off, I can address the non-attitude filled part of your post. Nope, on my snugtop, it does not look like they made a provision for a cargo light if you have one... Definitely wouldn't seal with one in place. The rack was custom made in Cali, where the truck is from. A welding outfit made it up so it would fit over the topper. Its made of steel, but its relatively light, and strong. My truck also, is a Metric Ton from factory. It also has an extra set of helpers, on top of the additional strength of the Metric Ton springs. Post up pics of your topper if you would like. I would be interested to see what changed from my 1987 Snugtop to your 1991 Snugtop. Rob L.

Camera is in Italy till Nov. 4,at 9 p. m. Pacific time. Should be able to post fresh pictures over the weekend. Unless Anita has other suggestions/instructions. Really interested in that double locking rear gate.. Will have to talk to SnugTop about it. Factory is only in the L.A area - just about 100 miles away. Can stay at my parents old home and go there on a Monday. Or even better, have the GF do the Monday duty while I go to work and make some $$. The single handle gate is crap. Do you know if your shell is from 1987? Will have to look at the number on my shell.

Actually don't smoke. Never got too excited about it in the 1960s. Much more interested in women. Lots of them didn't smoke. Still... Lots of good women....But did vote for Prop 19 today. (Legalize, tax MaryJane). Let's see the feds toss 38 million people in Calif. into jail. May get my nephew to sell some stuff to us, just for the hell of it. Problem is he raises high end stuff and I am a cheap fellow. Did not mean to come across harsh. Just trying to be as factual as possible. Love the photo of the Snugtop tag. Have to also say, I noticed the top lines of your shell, they are exactly the same as my Snugtop. Also aware that a saw could be used to make different window cuts. Also would love to have the dual handle rear door/window. Think I will call Snugtop this week or next week to see about that. Need to talk to them about a fiberglass repair just above the inside light fixture. Crack is getting longer. Guess, I should look at the Snugtop literature. Also had a Snugtop on my1990 Mazda B2200, still the single center door latch. John Jackson :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: Come off a little harsh there. Now its time for the lesson. JUST BECAUSE IT DOESN'T LOOK LIKE YOUR SNUGTOP, DOES NOT MEAN IT ISN'T ONE. Fresh from the presses. Put that in your pipe and smoke it. Rob L. :rant:

Cherokee center console has a provision for heat to the rear seats. Comanche center consoles do not have that provision. Also understand you need to change the Comanche heater air box to the Cherokee style to use the Cherokee center console. Think the mounting brackets for the Cherokee console are the same as the Comanche console. Can check my parts book if you need the info. I did the bench to bucket conversion and I like it. Used 91 Laredo wing back buckets. There is a great bucket seat how to in the DYI section. It got me to make the change.

This is NOT a Snugtop shell/topper. Snugtop used only one handle, mounted in the center of the back (not 2). The windows also show this is not a Snugtop shell. Snugtop windows are rectangular, with 4 90 degree corners. The windows on this shell are parallelograms, not rectangles. Snugtop shells also have a serial number on the tailgate/rear window on the lower right. And a Snugtop shell has a wide decal on the rear glass that says "SNUGTOP". This shell does look like it was built for the Comanche. My 91 Big Ton truck has an original Snugtop shell with the original Snugtop sales receipt in my documentation. Let me know if you want me to post a picture. Don't know about space for a factory bed light, but the Snubtop has a light just above the rear door. Mine is hooked up. Do like the lumber rack over the shell. Thought one built out of aluminum would be the best thing for the Comanche Have not need one - any amount of lumber I have needed to haul fits in the bed and just past the tailgate ( 8 or 10 feet long. Also can stuff longer lumber in by using the cab rear window to add another 3 or 4 feet for lumber (into the cab area). Have not tried putting 4 x 8 sheets of drywall in the Comanche, but the previous owner was a drywall installer and used the truck to haul drywall. Hence the extra two leafs added to the factory Big Ton package. Yes, it rides like a truck! John Jackson

JeepcoMJ Really? I appreciate your Buick V6 experience, BUT. Think that is an emotional reaction rather than a factual statement. The man asked a question. Don't you think he is entitled to some straight answers? You gave him good answers about the Buick V6. Why can you not let me suggest reasonable alternatives with out crap comments? Your crap answers devalue your worth on this board. John Jackson San Diego, California 92131

Very sorry to hear about the loss. Are you really sure it is beyond economic repair? Were you at "fault" or was the "other guy? I ask this because last year, my 91 MJ got trashed while parked by some person who was at a stop sign and did not see the "speeding" car who had the right of way. I collected on her insurance to properly fix the truck, but the insurance co. branded my title after agreeing not to brand the title. My truck is also a 91 with a column shift Automatic and I would like to have (for a very reasonable price) the standard cluster in the truck. Will you consider a very reasonable price if you get others to buy parts? Thanks for your reply, John Jackson

This one could be very interesting. Called the seller and spoke for quite a while. Yes, 10 plus years with no plates. BC registration is correct. Seems to be straight. Does anyone here have a reasonable guess at what a selling price would/should be? Since I have talked to the seller, I have a reasonable idea of what it will take to buy this project. Not trying to be coy or sneeky. Just looking for unvarnished opinions here on the Comanche Club. I have posted looking (but not too hard) for a diesel Comanche for a conversion to a VW TDI engine. But after looking at all the things on my plate, I kind of realize I need to have more than I just want it for a future project. Still, a factory stock 1986 diesel would solve a bunch of problems to register it in California. Hell all of my kids are Older than this truce. As far as upkeep costs for/to dad, a truck or two is way, way cheaper than just one well educated college kid. This is my time to buy. Anita is visiting family in Sicaly for a month. So this might be the right time to buy the truck and the unemployed Kid coud drive with me for the trip home.

sale-jqxqu-1995949105@craigslist.org It is a Comanche Dana 44 for $350 on Craigslist Orange County Think I saw one for $250 a couple of weeks ago in California.

No - it did not sell. Think he dropped the starting bid from 6K to 5750 before the auction ended. See his new listing - also with no bidders. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0505002606

I see a few things on Craigslist here (San Diego), most are priced too high.

You might want to look at a Ford 3.8 with a supercharger. The Ford v6 came in 2 displacement, 3.8 and 4.2. You could then use a Ford truck trans and "perhaps" get around some issues. Should also be lighter then the Buick V6. Just a thought.

Sparks got $2000 cash for it. Spoke to him today.

Ben- You are correct. 1997 and later doors/panels are different from 84 to 96 door/panels. The second post only says 84 to 96.

The answer to your question is in the second post. The one right above your question. YES, they fit. Colors may not be the same, but they fit.

Probably the eaiest way to go diesel would be to get a motor from an 85 or 86 diesel Xj or MJ. Might be hard to find. The VW TDI (Turbo Direct Injection) is 2 generations newer than the Renault engine in the 85-86 XJ/MJ. Many, many more of them in the states. Adaptor kit exists foa a TDI to Toyota transmission (Acme adapters). Also much less loud than the old Renault. To top it off, it is much lighter. But you will not buy a 1.9 TDI for $500.00 - then again, it is not a throw-a-way engine. 300-500K miles is not unusual. I have 203K on mine.

The "Big Ton" package was also offered in 1991. I have the original window sticker for my truck and it lists the "Big Ton" package. Previous owner put TWO addition leafs in addition. He hauled drywall and cement! Yes, it rides like a truck!

Re: MJ weight: My 91 two wheel drive has an I6, long bed, automatic, Dana 44, SnugTop, bed liner, heavy rubber load mat. With 2 large adults (son & I). Last time I was on a scale, weight was 3800 lbs. Re: fuel economy: If you want an engine for fuel economy, look at a VW TDI engine. The stock 1.9 TDI engine has 90 hp and 150 lbs/ft. Modifications are widely available that can take power to 200 hp and Tq to 300lb/ft. My 96 Passat wagon is 31-3200 lbs, gets 38-40 mpg on short trips around town and well over 40 on the road (48.8 last time).

Have a factory 2 door XJ cross body harnes. Had to cut it in half to get it out of the XJ. The XJ 2 door harness is/was one piece from the inside one door to inside the other door. Not like the 4 door harness that has 3 different parts for the front 2 doors (one part in each door to the kick panel and a third part going from Kick Panel to Kick panel. Was looking to do the work of rejoining the two parts on my work bench - not inside the cab of the truck. Thanks, JJ

The receiver/hitch does not "need" to be bolted to the factory step bumper! The factory bumper has no strength to add to the receiver/hitch at all. Try tapping your factory bumper with a hammer. See what it takes to "mark" the bumper. Then take the same hammer and smash the receiver/hitch as hard as you can, see what that does to the hitch - answer - not a darn thing.

Get a total from J.C. Whitney, including freight. Then look at Ebay and add in freight costs. Pick the least expensive. Be aware that you can not ship a used tank, because of gas vapors that may be in the tank. Also, check out getting the old tank repaired locally. May be the best thing to do.

don't know if it would work or not, but I would use a dial indicator with a small point and attempt to measure the depth of the score depth as compared to the "normal" cylinder wall. You should see the dial move from "zero" as you cross the score. The other thing to use is your finger nail around the score and a a fealer guage to compare the score to with your nail. Use a .020 or .030 feeler guage and see how it feels compared to your score in the cylinder. Above are just my thoughts. YMMV.