johnj92131

CRF136N - nice install documentation! Never thought about attaching the receiver hitch to the bumper. Just went outside to look at my hitch. It also has a couple of holes that don't quite match up to the factory bumper (but they are close). RETCH99 - Interested in how you adapted the 87 Cherokee tire carrier to the Comanche. Have been toying with the idea for a couple of years. As for your worry/concern about the Cherokee bumper being a litter higher than the Comanche bumper - I don't really think it is an issue. Just don't see the need to bolt the receiver hitch to the bumper. As far as I can see, the bumper adds nothing to the receiver hitch. The hitch is clearly much stronger and better built than the factory bumper. Would love to see some pictures of the Cherokee tire carrier on the Comanche!!!!

Don't want to rain on the parade because I first installed a cruise control on a Corvair I purchased new in 1969. Yes, I have "been there, done that". Frankly, most highways are too crowded here in California to make good use of a Crusise Control. Last month I drove from San Diego to Seattle and back on Interstate 5 and US 101. Tried to use the Cruise Control as much as possible. But found I was having to reset the cruise control every few miles because of other drivers on the road. Meaning traffic was not moving at a reasonably uniform speed to make a cruise control worth using. And my average MPG for the round trip was just short of 30 MPG. (Range from 28 to 32 mpg). Car was a 2003 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl. automatic. What I mean to say is that a cruise control "sounds" nice, but it is not all that great in practice. Want to do something really good? Put A/C in your Comanche if you don't have it now. (Yes, I installed factory A/C in my 1969 Corvair in about 1972, A buddy of mine installed A/C in his 66 turbocharged Corvair at the same time). Both turned out "REALLY COOL". This old fart says find something else to do for the Comanche. There has GOT to be other things you will like better. Again, sorry to rain on your parade. Just this fellows experience over the last 40 years. Have to tell you that a Cruse control setting "might" have saved me from speeding tickets in Wyoming and Utah a couple of years ago. Frankly, I doubt it because they both drop the speed limit VERY quickly when your come to a town. Guess that is how they finance City/County Services. Carbon County, Utah - One traffic litght in the 4th largest county in the state. Want to guess who got nailed with a ticket????

Boilermaker - thanks for the scans - really helped. Hornbrod - found that gray/black wire and put it to ground. Found I had the harness to the master window switch upside down. Fixed it and put the ground wire down. Now I have the drivers window working. Later I will work on the passanger window and the door locks. Thanks John

Well, seems I still need help getting the door locks and windows to work. Can someone point me to a good electrical diagram for the 1991 XJ or MJ on the net? Here is the situation: Replaced both doors on my MJ with a couple of front doors from an Xj with power windows and locks. (Doors from an 8/90 build date - should be M.Y. 1991)? Got a cross body harness from another 91 Cherokee with power doors and windows. Connected 12 volts to the tan 10AWG wire per instructions. Nothing at all happens. I must have missed the ground connection - but it looks like the window motor is grounded to the door frame and when the door is bolted to the truck, that should complete the circuit to ground. Or am I missing the ground connection? Any thoughts? John

You said it is a small motorcycle trailer - why not use a simple ball on the bumper for now, then look for a good deal on a legit 2 inch receiver? Should be able to find one in a salvage yard, given some time. Or even here on the ComancheClub site. I have been looking for a good deal on a front mount hitch so I can carry my Trail 90 on the front of the Comanche while I tow a 4500 lbs trailer on the back with my two inch receiver. You might also look at having a custom receiver built locally. Many years ago I was able to get a 2 inch receiver hitch built for my 85 Mustang for less than I could buy one from J.C. Whitney.

I tow a 4000 to 4500 lbs (fully loaded) with a 6 cylinder Isuzu Rodeo. Have done this for the last 10 years all over the Western U.S. and Canada. Worst gas consumption was 12 mpg going over 12,100 feet in the Rockies. I could count on 14 mpg most of the time. Never needed 4 wheel drive. Have used two Rodeos (Honda Passport twin). First one was a 5 spd stick, second (and current) is a 4 spd Auto with 4 wheel drive. Anita wanted an automatic so what can I say? You don't need to have a V8 to tow a trailer.

Where to buy one? Look no further than ComancheClub Classifieds: How about this one: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=17536&p=178144&hilit=hitch#p178144 John J

Why not get a frame mounted Class 3 hitch and receiver? Cost about $150 at most. Strong as you will EVER need. Factory tow rating is 5000 lbs with the Metric Ton Package (2 wheel drive) a total 9645 lbs GVW. 9264 with a non Metric Ton Package 4 X 4 and 7 ft box. (6ft box, 4 x 4 =9060). Bumper hitch is WAY below that capacity. With my Big Ton/Metric Ton package, I can carry two big people, the dog, plus 1000 lbs int the bed. All the while, towing a 5000 lbs trailer and STILL be under the GVW for the truck.

Hey 87ComancheLB, This 61 year old resents your comment about your "pretty old neighbor". Most of us "old guys" figured out a couple of years ago how to move heavy things without busting our balls or backs (AGAIN). Use tools! After you unbolt the bed and the gas tank, etc. Lift one side of the bed with a jack and some wood blocks. Put wood blocks on top of the frame and under the bed. Once the bed is above the bolts and the frame - Pass straps under the bed kind of like a come-a-long and lift the bed some more. Pulleys from the rafters will work great!!! Drive the truck out from under the bed. Drop the bed to the floor. Drop the bed on to a couple of dollies and move it where ever it needs to go. With the right setup, you could do this by yourself. Otherwise, just get 4 guys and make it easy on everybody. The bed is too bulky, never mind how heavy it is for 2 guys to handle.

How about "Testing 1...2..." ?? JJ

Geonovast wrote: "You can't just swap the gauges themselves, the printed circuit board on the back is different for each type of cluster." Serious question! Can I "easily" remove the printed circuit board on the back of the cluster, then move it to a different cluster housing?? I am looking to remove the printed circuit board from my 1991 column shift cluster, then put the gauges and the printed circuit board on the plastic instrument cluster I have with provision for the column shift indicator. To be clear, I am talking about using the plastic instrument cluster "housing" with a FACTORY column shift indicator and installing a printed circuit board from the 91 to 96 full gauge cluster. I "postulate" using my existing, full size fuel gauge face plate (with a new tachometer decal) on the "new" full cluster gauge. If I am correct, that would let me have the "factory" original cut out for the column shifter and some nice white face gauges. As an extra, I would have a 95 mph speedometer in place of the stock 85 mph speedometer by using the faceplate files from "Go Jeep.com". JJ

Did you have any problems putting the needle back on?

Can anyone tell me how to pull of the Tach pointer needle and then put it back on??? My 91 Comanche has a column shifted automatic and the low end instrument cluster. I would like to put the instruments from the full cluster in my existing cluster, then change the instrument face color to black on white. What I want to do is pull the needle off the fuel gauge I have. Then use that face plate with the nice cut out for the the transmission shift indicator. (When I reface the old fuel gauge, it will be with a white tachometer decal). Then put the tach in place of the old fuel guage.

I would start with your VIN number. Then see if you can find the 92 production number/quantity.

Giffer, I have a pair of tail lights I will sell you- How is $50 for the pair plus shipping???? John Jackson johnj92131@yahoo.com

Very timely information for me also. Swapping out my existing doors for doors with power locks and power windows. The "new" driver side door has a broken door check and my right side old door has a good door check I can swap in. Thank You!!

Good news then. All I need to do is pull the cross body harness for the windows, locks and mirrors from the donor at the yard at the same time I pull the doors. Also found a 2 door Cherokee with power windows and locks - will pull the switches from than and perhaps the bucket seats. Should set me back about $150. Not too bad. Thanks for the quick answers. JJ

My truck is a 1991 and I "think" I have read that 91-94 are the same connectors. BUT...who knows? Since I have to replace one door anyway, this is a good time to upgrade to full power. (Or maybe even to 97 doors, with the better window and door seals).

Looking to replace damaged doors with full power doors from a Cherokee (91-96). My Comanche just has standard crank windows and no power locks. Question: Will I just be able to plug in the harness from new, full power doors to the existing body harness and have everything work "properly"? Or do I have to get the under dash harness from the donor Cherokee? Thanks for any help. JJ

johnnyc, Thanks for the leads to Scotty's in Fontana and AMC Salvage in Wilmington. I will give them a call next week. Their prices can not be much worse than Hard Rock 4x4 here in San Diego. Those guys are CRAZY! I have located 2 other MJs in San Diego County - both short beds JJ

Pete, No I have not tried car-parts.com yet. Think I will be needing a long bed and don't want to pay an arm and leg for freight, but may have to buy the bed and the drivers side of the cab from the B pillar back. Door and fender will come from a Cherokee, with no problems - tons of those around. Will check out car-parts.com, thanks. JJ

Take a look at this site for some good information on sound deadening products: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ I found it interesting. JJ

Thanks, But Antelope, Ca. is in the Sacramento area. That is Northern Cal;if. More than 500 miles from San Diego - a long 7 or 8 hour drive each way. Anyone have a lead on some yards south of Bakersfield with a good selection of Jeeps and Comanches? Thanks, JJ

Anyone know of some yards in Southern California with any Comanche parts trucks? Thanks, JJ

My last two full tanks gave me about the same thing. Between 15 and 16 mpg (15.6). Truck is a 91 High Output with a stock engine. Transmission is an AW4 with a 3.55, 2 WHD and 235/75 x 15 tires. Long bed with a Snug Top shell. Weigh with me in it is around 3800 lbs (I think). This included a couple of hundred miles of freeway driving out of about 700 miles. Have made no effort to correct odometer reading for the larger tires. If stock tire size is 195/75 x 15, then I cover about 9% more distance that the odometer says. That would put my fuel consumption up to about 17 MPG. Reasonable. Think my dad got about 17 mpg on his new 1956 Chevy V8 with PowerGlide.