johnj92131

Has anyone ever put one of these on a scale? My son and I can lift the shell off and on the truck but really have no idea how much they weigh. Any ideas or accurate data?

Took the truck to a body shop Saturday. Their estimate was $3860 to repair. And when I go to Kelly Blue Book, top retail comes out to about $2990. So I KBB is right - then the truck is a total. What I need to do is find some sales (EBAY?) that demonstrate a higher than 3K value. Can any of you provide me with links to Ebay sales for a decent Comanche? That would be a big help. I will also take the higher priced listings on Auto Trader to the insurance adjuster. May also help if I take the receipts for Upgrades/repairs in the last 2 years. Those total $3250 right now and I have one more bill for about $700 to find. All told, I have $5200 in the truck, and think the truck worth fixing for $4000. Just need to make it worthwhile to the insurance Company. When my 85 Mustang GT was totaled, I managed to work the insurance company up from $3800 to $5500. Before that I had a 69 Corvair that was stolen, then recovered. Insurance wanted to total it, but after some discussions, decided to fix it for more than their initial offer. So it can be done if you have the documentation.

My truck was hit on Tuesday while it was parked on the street. Some lady made a left turn from a stop sign into on comming traffic. The first car she hit side swiped my truck. The bed is hit forward of the rear wheel, the drivers door is trash, part of the cab at the truck box is damaged and the front fender will need to be replaced. Also lost my front tire. Fortunately, there were only minor injuries, so it is just bent metal. My truck is not insured for collision, but the Lady that caused the accident is covered, so I should be able to recover something. Given the age of the truck (1991), I expect a low ball offer from her insurance. So I need help to find some comps for a Comanche in decent shape. Can anyone point me to completed Ebay sales?? All assistance appreciated. Some additional facts about the truck. Have the OEM window sticker and a long maintenance history on the truck from day ONE. It is a base model, 2 wheel drive, with 4.0 and automatic. Also A/c and the factory "big ton" package - that means Dana 44 and a class 3 trailer hitch. Truck has 223K miles, engine replaced at 90K. New radiator, front suspension redone, trans resealed, new front and real brakes - all in the last 8 to 10K miles. Yes, I have the bills. Shocks, tires and everything else in great running shape. Snug Top, factory/dealer installed bed liner and genuine Jeep no slip load mat. In short, not just the typical CraigsList Comanchee. (But I did buy it on CraigsList, after lots of looking). Paid $1150 for it and put about $3000 more into it. Bottom line is that the Comanche is a basic work truck for me when I need a truck. Otherwise it sits parked most of the time. Truck needed a fresh paint job and the bench seat needed to be recovered to look really good. But the body was VERY straight. Being an original Southern California car, there are no rust issues at all. But, frankly, fi I could stick the insurance company with a bill for $5K, it would make sense to scrap the truck. (It is the 4th vehicle in the house for only 2 drivers). Assuming I can get the cost of repairs from the insurance company, I will be looking to upgrade to 97+ doors (with full power). What can I expect to pay for a good set of 97 doors with power windows, locks, and mirrors? Not looking for a super deal, just reasonable/fair market price for used doors in good shape. Thanks, JJ

How about adjusting the float arm in the tank? Should not be too hard to measure the resistance when your low fuel light comes on, then just bend the float arm so the float sits lower in the tank at that same resistance. I have done this with my Passat but not the Comanche.

Robert, I am sure this is a stupid question, BUT, how did you get an 8" x 2" x 1/4" piece of stock behind the sheet metal????? Please help us mechanically challanged. Thanks, JJ

My 91 base truck had no hood insulation from the factory! Not sure what you would need it for. That said, I might just follow the earlier link and buy some just to see how much noise it will eliminate. My guess is NONE. New door seals might be a better investment. I am going to wait on the door seals till I get a set of 97 + doors. JJ

Sir Sam, I REALLY want to hear more about this swap. What year is the power train out of? What did it cost you for the core? How much of the Liberty did you get?? This seems like a really sharp solution. Please. Lots of Documentation and photographs. John Jackson

Got to think the 2.8 CRD would be the way to go. The 4 cylinder Cummins is about 750 or 800 lbs. The stock CRD engine has 295 lbs/ft of torque and 160 hp. And the Torque is way down low. But the cheapest would be a stroked 4.0 six.

Most of the noise on my 91 Comanche seems to be wind noise. My first attempt to reduce the noise will be to install the late door seals. After that I may try 1997 doors and the one piece window. Or maybe do the late doors at the same time as the door seals. Just a comment on the thermal insulation value of anything an eigth of an inch thick. It can not be very much at all. But Dynamat and the like seem very expensive. A properly functioning Jeep heater should be more than enough to keep an MJ cab way warmer than I would ever want. But I live in San Diego, and 45 to 50 degree temps, mean we are FREEZING our suntanned butts of here. Or we are up in the mountains playing in the snow. Here is an interesting link for sound insulation: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Anyone know where I can get a decent sound meter? Would like to do before and after measurements.

Well, fellows. My fuel guage is not working properly. I have a 91 lwb truck. I just filled up with 23.736 gallons of gas at 2.139 per gallon for a total of $50.77 The pump stopped and I added about one more quart of gas. For what ever it is worth. I had 349.9 miles on this fill up. That means 14.74 miles per gallon. Now, I have 235/75 x 15 tires, so the odometer may be off by something. God, I need to look at a diesel conversion. Anyone with some ideas or examples??

Thanks Lead, I like the look of that setup http://jeeptv.com/video/8112 Available here

Pete, What should I use to lube the hood release mechanisms? And exactly where should they be lubed? Any comments about putting gas struts on to assist hood lift??? Serious question. Even in So Calif. I feel the friction from the lack of lube. Thanks, John Jackson --Lube you hood release mechanisms! Including inside the cable and the center pivot. With every oil change if not more often

My 91 long bed came from the factory with the metric ton package - think it is a 3/2 spring pack. The previous owner added 2 additional springs to each side some time in the past. Will see if I can find the paper work and will post a pic of the spring pack if requested. Yes, it rides like a truck and the only time I have stressed the truck was when I put a bunch of sod behind the rear axel. Not in the middle of the bed for a better weight distribution.

Check on Ebay. You will find several sellers of new, replacement tanks for about $75 or so. I "think" (but do not know) there is a difference in venting over several different years. My 91 long bed has the 23.5 gal tank as standard equipment per the manual and per the factor window sticker. 91 and 92 short beds had an 18 gallon tank.

A stroke is not a good thing at all. You will be amazed by how much recovery can be made with therapy. My wife had a BAD stroke in her early 50's - Rehab did great things for her. Encourage her not to give up hope. Push the rehab, work her @$$ off at it. Huge rewards!! She can come back most of the way. All the best to you and your mom. JJ

SuperWade, Very nice find on that Jan. 15, 1949 snow fall in Costa Mesa. I was less than 1 year old then, but where I was (Scotland), snow was a normal thing. Glad to say I have lived in Southern California since I was 4 years old. Never could get my mom and dad to take me to Big Bear for the snow. My dad said he had seen enough snow (in Scotland) to last him a lifetime!! JJ

Don, Can you tell me more about the "decent aftermarket headlamp harness"? I need to replace one sealed beam anyway, so may as well upgrade the wiring harness. "For a few bucks you can wire in a decent aftermarket headlamp harness w. relays, like the APC or make your own, and get the full voltage to your new headlights w/o voltage drop and protect your headlamp switch and stock wiring from burning up. Just adding the harness w. relays will dramatically upgrade the lumens output of the stock sealed beams."

Don, Can you tell me more about the "decent aftermarket headlamp harness"? I need to replace one sealed beam anyway, so may as well upgrade the wiring harness. "For a few bucks you can wire in a decent aftermarket headlamp harness w. relays, like the APC or make your own, and get the full voltage to your new headlights w/o voltage drop and protect your headlamp switch and stock wiring from burning up. Just adding the harness w. relays will dramatically upgrade the lumens output of the stock sealed beams."

Summerinmaine, Where do you mount that motorcycle when you are traveling? I have an old Honda Trail 90 I want to take with me. Have been looking at a front mount hitch. Thanks

Summerinmaine, Where do you mount that motorcycle when you are traveling? I have an old Honda Trail 90 I want to take with me. Have been looking at a front mount hitch. Thanks

JeepcoMJ, Do I understand correctly that you want to take the bed off the MJ? You might want to take a look at some of the small, older Coleman tent trailers. Back in 1982 I purchased a small Coleman with a box that was only about 6' 10" long. Dry weight of the trailer was 890 lbs. Hand crank to raise the top, but an electric motor was an accessory. Get rid of the axle and the tongue and you are rid of quite a bit of weight. Had a built in 3 burner stove and a built in sink. Slept 6 in a pinch. I have seen these for as little as $500 here in Southern California. You should be able to find them cheaper where you are. If I were to do this, I keep the two fold out wing beds and make sure the wing bed would roll out just over the cab. That would let you keep the dinette up all the time. Any extra space under the former truck bed could be used for water storage or for the extra battery. Heck, I would mount a 2 KW Honda invetor generator - only 49 pounds and quiet as a mouse. Not sure what I would do for the propane tank? Under the truck bed I suppose. Honda Generator would be the most expensive part of this. You can get the 1 KW generator for less money (I have one), but I would go with the 2 KW if I had to do it again. Or do without the generator and save $7 -1200 Good Luck

JeepcoMJ, Do I understand correctly that you want to take the bed off the MJ? You might want to take a look at some of the small, older Coleman tent trailers. Back in 1982 I purchased a small Coleman with a box that was only about 6' 10" long. Dry weight of the trailer was 890 lbs. Hand crank to raise the top, but an electric motor was an accessory. Get rid of the axle and the tongue and you are rid of quite a bit of weight. Had a built in 3 burner stove and a built in sink. Slept 6 in a pinch. I have seen these for as little as $500 here in Southern California. You should be able to find them cheaper where you are. If I were to do this, I keep the two fold out wing beds and make sure the wing bed would roll out just over the cab. That would let you keep the dinette up all the time. Any extra space under the former truck bed could be used for water storage or for the extra battery. Heck, I would mount a 2 KW Honda invetor generator - only 49 pounds and quiet as a mouse. Not sure what I would do for the propane tank? Under the truck bed I suppose. Honda Generator would be the most expensive part of this. You can get the 1 KW generator for less money (I have one), but I would go with the 2 KW if I had to do it again. Or do without the generator and save $7 -1200 Good Luck

Great Thread! Need to reattach my passenger side female seat belt. Have been to lazy to find the right bit size. Since i also have a 91, now I know I need a T55. Thanks to all.

Great Thread! Need to reattach my passenger side female seat belt. Have been to lazy to find the right bit size. Since i also have a 91, now I know I need a T55. Thanks to all.

Kmack, What is the point of a sun roof on a Comanche? You can not open it, because there is no place for the glass to go. All you can do is let some light in. That said, I remember my father-in-law's 1964 VW Bug, it had a fabric sun room that opened up by folding on itself. Might be the best thing for an MJ. What do you think? My Passat has a sun roof and my old Camry had a sun roof. Unfortunately, I left the sun roof on the Passat tilted open for ventilation during the last rain about 2 weeks ago. Biggest 24 hour rain fall in several years for San Diego. Got the interior soaked. Stupid me. Still, find I do not use the sun roof very much at all. And when I had a broken cable fixed on the Camry, it cost me about $700. On the other hand, son has the car and he uses the sun roof. So, what ever works for you is great. Can tell you that a leaking sun roof is no fun - even in San Diego. For what it is worth, the Camry was purchased new by my mom and dad in 1989, they drove it for 12 years, I drove it for 4 years, and my son has driven it since. Rock Solid car that will go anywhere, anytime (on the highway). Only 150K miles on the factory 2.5 litre V6. Rear main seal leaks oil, but that is it.