86FUBAR

Iv got a 3.4 in my manch ( 2.8 and 3.4 sound the same...) and have been running a 2 chamber flow with the outlet torched out to a 4" hole with a 4" turn down welded on and it sounds awsome !!!! i like loud and obnoxious because it pisses everyone else off . but besides all of that i do think it sounds really good . iv got some vids on youtube of the exhaust but can't post them from work so i will try to do that later .

Yup ! That is the kit you want to get , wish I could run that but it ain't smog legal . That should be a considerable upgrade over the stock setup .

:hmm: So why don't you go back out on the freeway and run it again at 75 mph and then see what you get with all the "upgrades" that you did to it , at least then we would be comparing apples to apples instead of apples to oranges.

Well the truck still isn't smogged yet so I can't drive it but I did get the currie swaybar for it but can't find my camera and I also just picked up msd blaster coil for it to compliment the rest of the ignition upgrades all I need now is some time to work on it .Hopefully I'll have better update soon.'

I bet El Jimbo would give you 300 cash right know ! ........ That is a nice looking truck though.

I love everything about this , one day I hope to have a similar system but was wondering if you would be willing to post the costs involved in each necessary step for proper install and a totall and that would give me something to chew on for wile . Thanks , mason

I personaly loved my 2.8 , even as gutless as it was it took one hell of a beating between me reving it 6k+ more times than i care to remember , running it 4+qts low on oil consistantly (it had one hell of a leak for sometime) and having not changed the oil for 4 years after i fixed the leak . I was trying to blow it up because my parents said that if it died they would buy me a new engine but that never happened. Needles to say it was still running strong the day i pulled it out but it was way worn out and my needs for power grew so in went the 3.4. I had an 82-83 s10 when i lived in montana that had the 2.8 ,when i got it it had a steady 70-80 psi but did have a prity good oil leak so you had to check it every 2-3 days . After 3-4 weeks i noticed the oil pressure was like 10-20 psi so finaly poped the hood and when i tried to pull the dip stick it would only come out 3-4 inches so i messed with it till it came out and when it did it was completly covered in bearing material . I quickly cramed a gallon of diesel oil in (thats all i had) and that damn truck was still going strong 4 years later till a friend totaled it . say what you want but iv been impressed with the 2.8s that iv had.

Don't feel to bad , it really is a pain but after doing it a few times you will get it . It's been along time since I changed it but it is verry possible and all you need IIRC is a 1" wrench and 1/2 or 9/16 wrench , use the 1" wrench to hold the filter housing wile you break the line loose and remove and carfully pry out of the way then you will want break loose the filter housing and remove , replace the filter and reassemble and don't forget the spring and where exactly it goes . Now I did this like 3 or 4 times till I almost crossthreaded the filter housing and it was about then that I cut the line and installed a in line filter and some rubber hose . Now the idea with the spring and the stock filter is that it's supposed to be kind of a antidrain back for the fuel but I never had any starting problems after I did this . I have since gone to an electric pump etc...

Not much to update as I still need to get it smoged but was given the go ahead by the wife to order the currie antirock swaybar for it as it needs one !! Just as soon as I file my taxes. Pics as soon as I get it!!

you can also purchase a new flywheel for a early 90's chevy s10 2.8 flywheel as the later 2.8 were internaly balanced . Here is some good info on swaping the engines . http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread. ... -questions page 12 post #116 has the flywheel info .

Definitely use the metal one , when I installed the d44 in my manch I swiped the breather bolt off of a 80s ford as it is a hollow bolt that also holds down the brake line , it's a much cleaner way to go I think . It isn't a direct bolt on but dosnt take much to make work.

This just made my day ! thats to funny

Your right jim about the heat and that is why the building company is asking about a neighbours window as the reflection may be causing that . only thing to do now is get a cooler of beer and a lawn chair and watch it , even if it takes you all day..... :brows:

Well having personally done the 3.4 swap I say it is well worth the effort and the performance gain is verry noticeable over the stock 2.8 . However I did add an edelbrock intake to mine but did retain the stock carb as I have to deal with smog laws here so I couldn't go to a 4v carb and switching to fuel injection involves more than just cutting ,splicing and piggybacking of the stock harness here in good old CA though it is possible to do. Just take your time and do it right and try and spend your money where it's gona do the most good like replacing motor mounts , water pump quality gaskets etc... Stuff like that.

I considered going all the way up to the door sill and cutting the door but after some measurements and pleanty of head scratching I cut the lower part and mocked it in place and the bottom of the 2x6 sits right at the bottom of the floor as you can see in the underneath pics on my build . So raising the side another 2" didn't seem worth the extra effort to me unless I was gona boatside it (that's at a later date) and it gave me a better seam to weld to IMO. I am going to add supports but just havent figured out how I wanted to run them yet , i ran mine all the way back under the bed because I wanted the added protection and would like to incorporate them into a step side style bed later on and if I don't like it I can cut it off but for now it works . I did weld up the passenger side and made it my air tank and it's not that hard , just use lots of heat and try not to stop and start a bunch of times and if you do start the weld infront of where you stoped and run backwards over were you stoped at by atleast 3/8" and then move froward and overlap the weld by atleast 3/8" . I like to smooth it out with the flap weld after the final pass and then pressurize it and hit it with some soapy water , mark any holes and grind them down and fill them in and repeate. I'll add more later...

Its in the DIY section as a sticky . viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12815

It would help if we new what engine you had .

i still talk and text some times when i drive , the texting is usually quick responses and at lights or stop signs and the talking is always on speaker phone and with it siting on the center counsel and is "usually" setup prior to driving away . my favorite is seeing all the women drive with with the phone on speaker but in there hand and 6 inches from there mouth .

I use "BetaSeal U 418" for all my windshields, it's great stuff . Just follow the directions too a T and you should be fine and make sure you wear gloves cause the stuff makes one hell of a mess . I get mine from my local auto windshield shop and I think it costs maby $10-15 per tube but I don't know for sure cause I it get it for free. Hope that helps.

I'm kinda surprised it has 4:10 with an auto but that's good and I don't have ac so I didn't have to worry about converting it but if I did have ac I would only convert it if it didn't work . Also most systems have enuf give in the hoses so you can "filet" it out of the way during an engine swap , iv never had to discharge an ac system for a swap , if that's where you were going with that.

That's a damn nice find !! I'm jealous as iv been looking for another manch to DD and realy want to find another 2.8 manch but haven't anything , not even a decent 4.0 manch. As for the 3.4 swap it is definitely worth the extra money , I couldn't be happier with the results of my swap . Ya you could swap in a 4.0 but i like being different and nothing says that more than a "factory" chevy motor in a jeep!

Lastnight was Coors light , right know its Coors light and in a couple hrs I'll be drinking my favorite called a "Mexican driver" (tequila and OJ) , if you have never tried it it's delicious !

ever tried searching on this site for something specific :headpop: I never said i liked the search function , but thats the first thing that people always say is " :smart: try searching for it" so i thought id do it for once :shake: . ya the search on here sucks . Now as for the cutout rockers mine are ! not done ! , yes they do need some support legs but i havent hade the time to finsh them and I'm kinda unsure on how i want to run the support legs , but the little bit i have used them they have worked out prity good .

They are out there , ya just got to search . Pics etc.. Are on page 4 of my build thread viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5484&hilit=PROJECT+FUBAR

Unbolt the cap and flip it around and look inside at the contacts and inspect for bent , broken or scored contacts and check the rotor for damage (fix as necessary) then reinstall the cap and make sure the cap sits flat on the distributor housing . It sounds as if the rotor is contacting the cap.