86FUBAR

Dosnt y'all know to put cinder blocks under the frame n bumper to support it . Dang , does I got to think of ever thing! :smart:

PICS !! Or it didn't happen !! !!THIS THREAD IS WORTHLESS WITHOUT PICS!!

Now its geting to that point when you part it out and trade "up" to an 80's chevy luv 4x4 or something like that right :doh: :yes: Haha ! It's starting to look good , I really like the look of the hummer wheels on that thing. How's the steering going to be with the axle that far forward?

I'm running the 3.4 with the ax5 and have been considering swapping in a 700r4 backed by a 231 but what I got works great for the time being , what is it yer trying to do ? Sure you can swap it in along as the bellhousing is a 60 degree configuration . There is most likely going to be some difference in length so drive shaft mods will have to be done along with some other odds and ends I'm sure I'm forgetting but still possible .

:cheers: Thats the first thing that poped into my head when i looked at , i like it !!!

I got one for christmas but havent done anything with it yet as i havent had the time .

And here I was starting to feel like the odd man out after reading how lucky all these other damn guys are cause my 86 2.8 AX5 30/35 non C -clip had 3.55 stock . Thanks now I don't feel so bad

My 86 with the carbed 2.8 did the same thing when I ran anything less than mid or premium grade fuel in it , now that I have the 3.4 swapped it will still do it if I run the cheap stuff . The truck sits more than it gets driven so I always put premium in it . Try running some premium fuel with some octane booster to clear it out . Make sure the timing is set right and that the 4 pin conector off the dizzy is disconnected wile checking / adjusting . The carbed 2.8 does infact have a computer

I haven't smoked in probably 7 years but lots of my friends and family do and they let me smell the stash when ever it's out :chillin: I wish I could but I got a CDL and get randomly drug tested at work all the time , it's probably a good thing though I gues :dunno: . It will be interesting to see what happens to those that have a CDL or are in a position like me when it does get legalized as it's only a matter of time, especially around here where I live. The radio station "KPIG 107.5" I listen to all the time has been playing all sorts of pot related songs all day long and some of the commercials and stuff as totally off the wall . If you look it up and look at today's play list you will love it . I would link to it but I can't from my phone. Don't know if this works. http://www.kpig.com/index.cfm/playlist.htm?days=0

Iv had this sort of thing happen before on my brothers s-10 and each time it was the shoe lining coming apart ( delaminating ) and causing the back brakes to lockup or be come grabby when applied

I tore out the carpet (actualy it was black vinyl floor) about ten years ago and bedlined the entire floor and it came out great . I used it as my DD for about 6 years after that and wile it does get a fair bit warmer than normal it was never hot enuf to burn myself and it never really mattered unless it was in the high 70s or 80s out side and you were in stop and go traffic , besides I got used to it . It does get alot louder than normal so between that , the extremely loud exhaust , the howl of the swampers (which is now a loud huming/whine from the bias baja claws) the buzing noise ringing through the tin can i call the cab from the electric fuel pump thats now mounted under the drivers floor pan and no headliner , you basically have to yell at the person next to you if you have the window down and I wouldn't have it any other way ! ! . All my friends think I nuts for having driven it like that for so long but to me that's pure bliss . I say fix the rust , bedline it and rock it for a bit wile you make up your mind , atleast long enuf to let it cure and fully offgas cause it will get you high as a kite for like a month after it's done :chillin: .

:agree: ya what they said , also having a clean engine and engine compartment makes getting friends to help work on it easier and having all that grease ,oils ,fuel ,heat etc... on electrical wires can make the protective coating become mush and you really don't want that. It's also important to clean off the engine befor working on it or a specific part of the engine to ensure no out side contaminants get in the engine and if you keep your engin clean on a regular basis it can make nasty trail fixes not as bad .

For a quick and effective fix you can redrill the spring perch forward 1 inch to move the axle back so the drive shaft fits .

I degreas engines and what not all the time at work and have found that castrol cleaner ( also called "Purple Power") is the best stuff to use , I get it in 5 gallon super concentrate and dilute it a 1.5 gallon pressure pot (i use a 50/50 mix) commonly used for spraying pesticides and it works a hundred times better than anything iv ever used before including all the previously mentioned products . The stuff does like to eat aluminum but only if left on it for more than a few hours and usually only causes it to start oxidizing , and I have yet to have any problems caused from using the stuff and I use it heavily on our big diesel pusher school buses and all the maintenance and grounds trucks and equipment . I usually hose it on everything except the alternator let it sit a bit , steam it off (we have a big a$$ industrial steam/pressure washer in a dedicated wash bay with water reclamation) and repeat as necessary . Iv also used at home with the garden hose with verry good results aswell.

Well I don't live there anymore but when I did there was a sweat black mj roling around that , for a bit had a roof rac mounted on top of the cab with cable supports run to the corners of the hood . The cables looked funny but it did look cool , never did get a chance to talk to him though. O and I lived in Mooresville

I about had a heart attack after the last big change to the site . I hate change so my vote is no but it really isn't up to me . I do know the sample site and the chevytalk sites are way to "busy" for me with all the adds etc.. And doesn't seem as easy to navigate , just my 2 cents

I wouldnt say the carb is in need of a rebuild , it may be something is as easy a clogged fuel filter or a bad pump . You have already established that you have spark by spraying brake cleaner in the intake and firing it up so next you need to check fuel pressure and the filter , to check the pressure your gona need a pressure gauge . If you ain't got one go down to the parts store and get a vacuum/fuel pressure gauge as it's two tools in one . Disconect the fuel line from the carb and slip the ruber hose over the end of the hard line and secure it with either a hose clamp or zip tie and have a friend crank it over , it should be around 5-7 psi . If it's within spec pull the filter housing off the back of the carb and inspect / replace the filter . Now what I recommend you do is remove the hard line from the carb to pump and cut hard line in a convenient location near the front part of the engine and then cut the the inlet portion of the hard line and leav enuf room to install an inline filter with ruber hose and ditch the internal filter as they are difficult to get at and the filter housing is easily cross threaded . Also by doing this you can "T" into the line and check the cranking / running pressure which is how I prefer to check it.

I'm running about 8" of lift but didnt want to constrict my self to just the 8" spring so i purchased the ACOS and 6" skyjacker springs so i had the ability to adjust and fine tune my suspension as things settled or as i threw more weight on it.

The TBI engines aint that bad , wile they may not be as powerfull as the later SFI (96and up) engines they are verry reliable and super simple to work on and take easier to performance addons IMHO . As for the 96+ engines they are verry good engines aswell but have some issues . For instance they use a funny spring loaded fuel injector called a "poppet" that is fired by fuel pressure and they are pron to clogging and ultimate failure , luckily GM figured this out eventually and came out with a nice replacement unit that replaces the junk poppets with real electronically fired injectors that turn it in to a MPFI setup and it only runs about $500 bucks and is a direct bolt in. Another bad idea was the plastic distributor that over time the ears that the dizzy cap bolts to would break off leaving you to have to replace a otherwise good distributor but fortunately the aftermarket kicked in and came out with some better stuff like the billet unit from DUI that isn't much more than a junk replacement and IIRC you need a scanner to even be able to set the timing correctly. Also alot of people make the mistake of calling all the "center bolt" valve cover engines a "Vortec" when infact only the 96 and up are true Vortec engines . If it were me I would opt for a 95 or earlier TBI truck , slap on some stock vortec heads ( there less than $700 bucks new ) drop on a GMPP or Edelbrock intake designed to fit the vortec heads , a bored out TBI with bigger injectors (or drop on a stock unit off a bigblock) , dual exhaust , a new PROM chip and Beat the hell out of it .

That thing is Awsome ! I'd love to have one siting on my desk at work .

That was some funny stuff right there, some people have to much time on there hands :rotfl2:

No you don't need that for 2.5" lift. The general rule of thumb when it comes to lift height and control arms is stock or aftermarket UCA and LCA are good to about 4" of lift , now from 4" and up yer gona want control arm drop bracket and preferably aftermarket control arms as the ride is gona suffer considerably not to mention the tire is gona get pulled closer to the bottom of the fender during flex and could make contact . Now its not uncommon to see guys running 6+ inches of lift using drop brackets and that's perfectly fine but flex is still hindered and short arms and drop brackets arnt the best for hardcore wheeling and that's when longarms come in and save the day! Now you could possibly run longarms on 2.5" of lift if you wanted to and just chop the hell out of the fenders and slap some 33" tires on there and that would keep the COG (center of gravity) low which is very good for offroading.

:agree: What he said

Well I'm runing the Rustys longarms on my manch and like them , they are holding up very well and are built stout. I know some people don't like Rustys but they work and for me it was more of a cost thing as many of the other options were significantly more expensive . They defenetly get the job done and the truck flexes alot so I don't have any complaints , as for other longarm kits I liked the TNT ,RC and Clayton

I can't get enuf of that show !