86FUBAR

Here ya go ! 1.75"W X 20 FT long for $13.00 , they even have 2"wide and 2.25" wide ! http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Leaf-Spring-Liner-with-Lip-1-3-4-Inch,2079.html?sku=91033036-WHT&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&catargetid=530009170000097555&cadevice=m&gclid=Cj0KEQjwj7q6BRDcxfG4pNTQ2NoBEiQAzUpuW5sR_w7DF2P7pBkTgn6wHJ-uAf8l8b7FTN6y73q9IIYaAiR18P8HAQ

Yup ! Go with the 2x6 ! 2x8 will be way to much just . Got pics and stuff on my build page ! http://comancheclub.com/topic/5194-project-fubar/page-3

The show was cool ! Got to see a Pagani Huayra BC ! Only one in America! Didn't take any pics though , to many damn people !

Going to cars and croissants tomorrow in San Jose tomorrow! It's an exotic car show that's supposed to be good , not sure how to post pics now with tap talk but I'll do me best !

Well judging by how hammered and chopped up the truck already is I don't think anyone is going to notice that you rolled it ! Just hammer out the windshield frame to fit some new glass and glue it in and you will be off and running in no time :)

No delete pulley just a smaller belt ! It's looking good ! I had the t-stat bolts break on me years ago and had to enlarge them aswell and I just aquired a 2.8 Cherokee that there broke aswell

Look on the engine for the data tag that has the CPL # , I'm not sure we're it's usualy at on that engine but once you have that you can look up in a service manual what the specs are supposed to be i.e. Boost psi / rated HP / RPM . Etc... To me 23 psi sounds good but that might not be what it's rated at.

Not to familiar with that engine but check lift pump fuel pressure , make sure there are no blockages in the feed line from the tank and I'm not sure if it has it but there might be a spring loaded check valve at the pump in the fuel return , if it's stuck partially open there would be a definite lack of power . An old truckers trick was to use some vice grips and pinch the fuel return line just enuf to boost the pressure in the injector pump and give more power.

I'm running a cobra clasic 25 IIRC ! I have mine mounted on the roof sideways just to the right of the rearview mirror , works great there ! That and I couldn't find a better spot for it . It currently doesn't have an antenna cause it got ripped off but I was running a 10' wipp !

I'm not saying that "hot" coils are the best thing in the world ! I'm just saying that they aren't " snake oil " like they are being made out to be ... It seems that some people think that the "engineers" from 25+ years ago had it all figured out and nailed the perfect coil on there first try or something and no improvements could possibly be made ! If the "engineers" we're so good we wouldn't have to fix so much stuff on these trucks or am I to assume that they were so tied up "engineering" the perfect coil that they forgot about some of the other stuff. I guess my argument wasn't made that clear in my first post ...what ever.

Are you saying you tested a stock AMC Jeep XJ/MJ coil against an aftermarket "hot" coil, or just some factory coil off whatever vehicle you happened to have a coil from? The factory Jeep ignition is an HEI system. Don't waste money trying to "improve" it. Dang you got me ! Nope , didn't have a stock xj / mj coil . We used GM HEI ,GM / Mopar can style and some stuff I don't recal what it was . Everything was tested with its equal performance replacement following the stock . Also looked at some failed coils , cutaways etc...

When I was in high school the shop teacher had this old machine that tested coils (along with some other stuff that I can't recall ) it was a huge machine , probably 6 ft long 6ft tall with all these big analog gauges on it and was older than dirt and one day in class during an argument over "hot" coils he decided to drag this thing out and we spent the entire class playing with different coils . This thing would show you all the inputs , out put , voltage , resistance , etc ... Along with the actual spark in a controlled box and when we tested a stock coil to a "hot" coil the "hot" won ! In all the tests . It was at or above its rated output and was significantly better than the stock . I saw this with my own 2 eyes . ( we tested a lot of coils that day among other things) Then the argument came about that even though the hot is better how much difference will it make on a stock fuel injected car compared to a stock carbed engine , in most of our cases probably not much but how many of us have an aftermarket "performance" air filter ? Most of us right ! Did your truck turn into a rocket ship after you spent $50 bucks on a air filter or more for the cold air intake setup! Mine didn't . Did it help ? sure it did , the slight increase in mpg showed it but hey , if the factory "engineered" the ignition so perfect then one would think the did the same with the intake right ? As we modify things like installing bigger injectors we just threw out the factory "engineered" specs ,sure the factory coil was perfect ! In stock form as it was "engineered" to be and now things have been "modified" now is the stock coil still with in it operating range.... ? .The way I see it is that every little thing helps and some may help more than others but it all adds up in the end

http://comancheclub.com/topic/16236-pipe-bending/?hl=pipe+bender Here is a link to a conversation about this very topic from a few years ago and my 2 cents on the subject at post #17 with some help full tips. With pics !

This is the biggest reason I don't shop online ! I get all my auto parts etc... From a local auto parts store ( or the dealer ) , if I have a problem they fix it ,if I'm doing a side job they will put it on a hold tag and I can pay when I get paid , they will deliver my parts to me if I need them to . I get a really good deal on all my parts ! Sure I could probably do better online on the hard parts like water pumps, starters tune up stuff etc ... But personal customer service isn't there . I do however buy some things out side of the parts store like oil and wiper blades as they are usually crazy cheap at Costco ( or Walmart ) and if I need performance parts like carbs and intakes etc... I'll order from summit racing. I'm a very loyal customer and always try and support local businesses and all the people I do busines with know that and in return I get top notch customer service. Also all the places I shop at save for Costco and summit are long time locally owned establishments not vato zone . Just my 2 cents.

I have a different engine (3.4 v6) and what not but I had the same thing happen a wile back and it smoked the 1 and only other ground on the engine ! The one on the left rear cylinder head to fire wall ! Fixed that and added some more , still can't believe I missed that during the engine swap but o well . Purrs like a sick cat once again! Worth a check .

I bought an 06 power wagon for my towing duties ! And kept the manch !! I vote do both .

I'm running the edelbrock intake with the stock carb on my 3.4 and I had to raise the hood to get it to clear and I'm pretty sure you have to do the same with the other carb adapter as well . I also had to put a small dent in the hood support at the back center of the air cleaner lid as it was rubbing a little though I probably could have raised the hood more but I liked it were it was at.

I think you need to find a new smog station , also I always recommend getting the pre test done on older trucks like this because if it fails or worse fails as a gross polluter wile doing the actual test then you have to go to a certified rep station ( sometimes for the life of the vehicle after that) and those guys are a bunch of by the book hall monitors who you don't want under the hood of anything you own . There is however an electrical plug you have to disconnect in order to set timing and the book and IIRC the fire wall say it is a 1 wire plug but I have never found it and the shop I get my truck smoged at informed me it is the 4 wire plug coming out of the distributor and that's how I've been doing it for the last 15+ years Had a smog shop fail my friends 2.8s10 because it "had an aftermarket intake manifold" on it ! All we did was paint it silver and put some Edelbrock stickers on it ! Finally got it sorted out but was a major pain because he reported it to the smog ref etc... Turned out the shop guy that failed it was the teacher for the smog certificate school at the local community college

Being from California with all our stupid smog laws etc... I would take that thing in a heart beat ! Because it is smog exempt!! The only diesels that need to be smoged are 1997 and up , I would yank that diesel out and stuff something else in there whether a newer diesel or a big gas engine and enjoy the crap out of it .

Thant's fine, I'll wait and claim post 23,456 B) Unless someone beats me to it. Challenge accepted!

I like were this is going ! As for the clutch I'm running the center force stage 2 clutch behind my 3.4 / AX-5 and love it ! I don't have 300hp but for the beating I give it off-road and the noticeable difference from the stock it's well worth the money

I second this ! I watched the originals and liked them and that was fine for me , there are plenty of other movies Id like to see be made into sequel/prequel but they probably wouldn't bring in top dollar . It is funny though that when people find out I'm not a Star Wars fan they seam realy suprised , perhaps it's a generational thing as I'm only 32 .

Hum? You say the RPMS drop but the engine doesn't die , but it only does it when driving correct? Is there a loss in power ? Does this coencied with anything like a bumb in the road or ....? Does it feel like you shut the key off for a second then back on real quick ?

This is a relatively cheap mod ! The only things that "need" to be done are an electric fuel pump and a neutrally balanced flywheel or flexplate other than that it's swaping bits and pieces from one engine to another . That's it ! My swap cost me about 2k and 1k of that was the engine itself and I went with an edelbrock intake , higher end fuel pump and replaced a bunch of other stuff wile I was there . I could have saved at least $500 if I had just done the bare necessities and in most places used engines can be had for a hell of a lot less than I paid . You can't say the same about a 4.3 swap , trust me I looked ! And if you want a 700r4 you can use one from a 2.8 s10 .

You might be able to use the 2.8 flex plate if you drilled the spot welds holding the counter weights , iv done this before on other swap projects years ago but it still should get checked for balance