deziped

Preceding comment is correct. I just went that route 2 days ago after install of new radiator. I filled it as much as possible through heater hose & then filled bottle 1/2 to 3/4 full then :brows: I just warmed vehicle up[to normal (210) tempaerature then shut it off & went & took a nap. Couiple hours later I had to run to store so I add more 50/50 to bottle. Checked it when I got back home & yup it had been sucked down while I was in the store. When it cooled down I added some more & was ready for the next warm up. Anyway it's now fullup & belched & workin fine. It may not be as quick as some other methods, but it's easier & less messy. :brows:

Nice clean lil MJ. I lik it.

$3.69 now. Hell it's another 18 days til memorial day, we got time to get to $4.09 by then.

Looks like that dart fell a lil short, or did the cat shake it out?

Are those upright walking goats in the background. Next thing yuh know they'll be siting on chairs

My dau & her husband have a 2dr HT w the flat 6 in it. It runs & is in restoration process when she's not doing sum-thun to her MJ. I think they recently did the paint on the Corvair. :roll:

I was in the local WALMART yesterday. Was surprised to see Seafoam on the shelf. It was a few cents cheaper than what the auto parts stores sell it for.

Parts value & maching probally $400 into it. No warranty. Don't know of anyone buying used equipment who places monetary value (i.e., an hourly wage) on someone elses time effort in a DIY project. Expected personal loss factor that one usually experiences on his personal expenditure outlay. What I personally think it's worth to me. Being a tight a--, and trying to haggle a good deal, I'd probally offer 350 and cut off my high at 450. But thats just me, anyone else got an idea?

Well since he's got his mouth open screaming, & I can't stand screaming, and being the expert shot as you stated, I'd give him a shot in the mouth from my 9mm Makarov which is alway in my jacket pocket to shut him up and stop him in his tracks. I would then explain to him that I had been having sex with his wife and daughters on Thrusday afternoons while he was gone to the local mosque for prayer. I then reminded him that if he truly wanted to be a martyr he could hurry home and kill his wife and daughters as his religion requires before the wax plug in the back of the hollowed out 9mm round he swallowed melted and released the arsenic. :mad:

How many miles on eng? Was it a crate rebuild or owner rebuild? Was all new/remfg parts used in rebuild? What year? Carb/TBI/MPI? Need info to place a realistic value on it. :roll:

If that thing overheats you might consider wiring a temp sensor & switch up to it an hanging a Taurus Elec fan on it.

I had one of those 2.5's with a rough idle. Tried ever tune up trick I could think of to no avail. Finally sucked a 1/2 can of Seafoam through the brake vac, poured 1/4 down its throat and the left over in the tank. After doing the smoke trick it settled down to a smooth idle. Must of been gunk in the system somewhere. Just never know whats going to work.

Local radiator pro says he can replace the rubber seals on my plastic tanked aluminum radiator. I'm gonna challenge him on that. If I pull it it will run about $75 with a limited warranty. The ends & core are in exc cond.. I think I will try that & support my local business for a change. I'm off on a 950 mile trip as soon as it's fixed. I'll let you know how it holds up & whether or not I made a wise decision. I think these leaks, since they both started at the same time and are on the corners, are the result of excessive flexing of the front unibody.

It pretty much plug (8 grade 8 bolts) & you ready to play. :chillin:

Got 89 w 4.o AW4. The radiator is showing seepage at both bottom corners. No hose leaks. I think the plastic end tanks must loseing their seal to the core. Are they just epoxyed on there. Anybody want to provide their 2 cents on life expectancy on the thing or possible chances of repairing it. . I think it is a CSF brand. Maybe I'd just be better off not trying to save it & just replace it with another. Comments.

Looks to me like some chemical reaction took place either from improperly prepping the bed or sum thun in the liner product that softend your paint to the point of losing its adhesion. Painters tape doesn't usually rip off old paint. You should demand that those areas be repainted and if he won't follow thru get some bids on the repair & take him to small claims court for restitution.

I think the the problems started with people like DR Spock & his writings. The butt head apparently had no ball's or was scared lil kids would beat his a---- if he confronted them on mis-behavior. The liberial left uses it as gudiance for raising their kids & so here we be. Like my neighbor kid say's "You may be my mom, but you can't f',n touch me cause I'll call the police if you do", and he does and he wins by default every time.

So why do you want to pay dealer prices when you can get the M10 bolts at a hardware store or Fastenal or similar supplier? :nuts:

Joined Army Airborne, then cannon cocker, signal corps, VNam Cmbat Avn(Huey gunner,S3,Mgmt,etc. depending on manpower on hand), then served at various Army Cmd Hqs after that until retired at 39. And that was years ago.

Did yuh fire it up & blow it out? :roll:

I think he means the 4 bolts that bolt the drive shaft to the flange on the front of the transfer case output shaft. Not the u-bolt nuts. Correct me if I'm wrong. You can pick up grade 8 bolts at your local hardware store. They torque to 22 ft pounds by the way.

Goody, Goody or Pennies From Heaven . I can't remember which was aplayin when my mama birthed me, she was a cursin so bad.

Pull the rail & swap injector 5 with 2 and see what happens. It don't take to long to do. At least you'll know if that injector is really bad or its a wiring problem. I wouldn't spend any money on parts until you track the problem. M2C

When buying OLD vehicles I really don't look/or care about the mileage on them. You put 100k miles on it & it may be in pristine condition, while my 100k may leave it a smokin & rusted out. I look at what I think it's gonna cost in the end for initial acquistion and additional expenses to restore it to the level of performance & appearance that I will be satisfied with. I've bought em for $400 & put another 500 into making them road worthy, reliable, & pretty. That's not to bad a deal. But I've also regretted some mis-judgements I've made that got expensive. But I guess the fun in it all is trying to get the slickest deal at minimal cost and then not have to tell your buudy that "Yeah I got a real deal on it, but on the way home my foot went thru the floor and I had to beat the flames out under the hood with my shirt", oh well!

Sounds like worn parts, possibly track bar, tie rods, ball joints or all. M2C