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Everything posted by deziped
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Comanche Club record breaker. now on for Sunday@10pm eastern
deziped replied to Automan2164's topic in The Pub
Any body got the right time -
Comanche Club record breaker. now on for Sunday@10pm eastern
deziped replied to Automan2164's topic in The Pub
I'm here at 7:01 PT -
I've owned several different brands of chain saws of various cc size and have found that their cutting ability can be directly linked to the quality of the chain and expertise with which it is sharpened. I have seen and experienced on many occasions smaller saws out cutting the big boys. My cheapo Mc C with less cc than my larger Echo or Stilh would out cut them based solely on who sharpened the chain. If I sharpened the chain it cut like crap, but, if my brother , who was a timber faller in the PNW for years sharpened it, it cut through timber like butter. But the McC sucked for running reliability. The Echo was most reliable and easiest to maintain. My brothers preference the Husq-------. How do I make recommendations on a chainsaw, pick the color you like best.
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Exhaust was sounding a lil differnt last couple days so checked it out today. Seems the exhaust & inake manifold bolts/nuts had loosened up some. Those on the front half were looser than the back half. Toightened & retorqued the top half tonight will get the bottom done tomorrow. Seems I have to do this about every 12 - 15 months.
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Summers get pretty warm in your part of the country, I would replace the valve. Running heat through the box at the same time your A/C is running will probally reduce the effective of any cooling attempt blowing out the vents (hot and cold you'll get luke warm at best). I have on ocassion gone to JY and searched vehicles regardless of mfg to find a valve similiar to the non-working one and adapted it to fill my needs. OLder Chrysler products have worked for me.
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For all who say the want a diesel. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/2036311364.html
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I've found that about 75 percent of callers are either, 1. Calling because their inquisitive and don't want the item to start with: 2. Don't have sufficient cash to pay for the item to begin with, or ship it: 3. Say they'll be by to check it out and know their not going to do any such thing. My policy: Only a small percentage are not blowing smoke up my a---, so I don't wait for the "I'll come right over crowd" even if he lives on the block. First to show up with cash gets it. I tried to give away an entire stripprd MJ & 1/2 another FREE with the same line of crap from inquirers, you know the ones that say "boy I need that stuff, I'll be right over". Set the stuff in the driveway and told them to come and get it. Only one out of about thirty callers showed up for what they wanted (gas tank) during the month it sat out there . All the rest went to the dump.
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Portland craigslist has some nice MJ's, check um out. Bet they never seen salt. http://portland.craigslist.org/nco/cto/2010077639.html
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Slow around here today so I checked it's oil. Added 5 oz. so thats pretty good for 2134 miles since last change on 10 Oct 09. The oil is still light color. So at that rate I won't look at it again until Winter is over with.
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Reset your speedo yourself, it's simple and here's how it's done: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76857
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Most 87-90 MJ's came pre-wired for the 242TC. To make the shift light indicator work as it should with the 242 TC you will need to use the 242 TC shift position switch at the TC. Just remove the vacummn switch hookup and screw in the elec one. Behind the TC shift linage bracket bolted to the side of your tranny, or somewhere in that area, is a set of wires (3) that is not plugged into anything. That is the wiring you plug your position switch into. Those wires run up to the 10 wire blue plug near the diagnostic plug in. It's plug & play. Your speedometer should work just fine, mine did with no changes made.
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which dana44 front axle is mine?
deziped replied to comanche12's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
huh what he say dun no. -
To fix that loose steering wheel check this: http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2009/jeep-steering/ If it veers to one side or the other when it feels like it, you probally have loose or worn out parts. Get a helper and lay under the truck and have the helper turn the steering back and forth (with truck running for PS) while you place your hand and eyeball on each joint and look/feel for any sloppy joints, etc.
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Pull your front turn signals and look for bad bulb holders/sockets or shorts. These two lights are prone to failure.
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I got two off of ebay. About $110 if I remember correctly. No matter what you get put a straight edge across the flanges from end to end to make sure their aligned. Do any straightening if needed before you start bolting it in. Basically everything said above is right on for installing it. I did shoot PB Blaster on all the nuts 2 days before I started and again the day before, everything came loose fairly easy, no broken bolts. Also i left the fuel rail attached and just lifted the intake manifold as far as I could up on the valve cover and wired it out of the way. Also check (Measure & test fit the EGR valve cross over pipe) to make sure its gonna go together alright once the manifolds are bolted up. Run it a couple weeks and then retorque the nuts/studs. Good luck.
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That thing with the grooves be the viscous fan clutch. If you removed the four nuts then its just a case of pulling it off the hub by prying between the fan pulley and fan hub. Slight pounding on the back of the fan near its center may help break it loose. Just don't bend things. I've had sucess by just grabing the fan and shaking the h--- out of it while pulling outward. I think the fan shroud has to come out or at least be removed and shoved back over the fan blades and lifted out with the fan & clutch. Once the fan is out you can R&R the clutch.
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Check the solenoid OHM's for the 1-2 & 2-3 shift. If they ain't up to snuff it ain't a gonna shift when it should. But, the symptons you describe could be bad TPS, TCU, or just bad connections. A failed/failing 2-3 solenoid will hold it in 1st until about 4300-4600- RPM before banging into 2nd gear.
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If you changed springs were the new ones equal in length. Maybe one of them is weaker. Did you throw in any spacer?s.
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Only thing I've seen lately, look here: http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/1983225629.html
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That would look good on the resume's. When reviewing resume's for hiring I always gave more weight to apps with verifiable voluntary achievements. Provided a little more insight into their characteristic's.
