deziped

Had to open another thread as for some reason I can only download 1 pic at a time from P Bucket. Any way the canopy is back on now [/img]

Cleaned up the AW4 & 231. Shoved back in corner Image Not Found

Hers another pic of it. If he brings it back tomorrow I'll get a pic of interior. He doesn't drive it to work everyday. It also has A/C. Wish mine did. Image Not Found

Finally got a pic of that MJ I've been seeing across the street for past coupl years. It's a 90 4L 2wd with 5sp with over 300k miles on it. Was recently retired & repainted after being used on his sales route in So Oregon for years. No rust on it. He's 2nd owner. Seats are covered in leather & padding his wife cut down from a Park Ave. Said its still avg 21.5 mpg. Just FWIW. Image Not Found

Venting always helps No matter what the edeavor with fortitude you can accomplish any goals you set for yourself. Just do it.

He's right, new wire & relays is the way to go. I installed 2 relays, 1 for Hi & 1 for Lo beams, with 12 Ga wire for the new looms. Fed V direct from alt when eng running. Used 18 ga from old headlight socket (used JY sockets for plug & play) to relays to activate the relays. No splices in the system to eliminate any volt lossage. Now I,m gonna dump the Auto Pals for Hella ecode lense's. Was gonna use them originally but because the Auto Pals were cheaper I went that route, a big mistake. Plan on trying the 35w 4300k Hi-Lo HID bulbs in a couple months. Just installed a HID kit on the wifes 09 Honda last week & what a difference.

The Auto Pals are alright, however, the light pattern is aimed directly down the road in my opinion without sufficient lighting to the sides of the road in either Hi or lo beam. If you can find some Hella light lens you should get a much better beam spread out in front & toward the sides of road. What ever you get make sure they are Euro code as it provides that flat beam cut off when on Lo beam to prevent blinding oncoming traffic. Especially if your running high wattage illegal bulbs on the road.

I'd park it on a level garage floor & measure the height of the axle on both sides from where the tube exits the differential to the floor and out on the ends from tube to the floor. Or take to an alignment shop and have them check the camber to see if its at 0 as a starting point to eleviate the problem.

Being all shiny & what not, I just thought she crapped one without a brown wrapper on it. Being it looks more pointed on the top end than the others she mustve had an anus muscle spasm as she dropped it.

The TC shift lever on a 242, the one that bolts to the case it self goes on hanging downward. You can use the shift lever stamped 396 which is aprox 3 inches long. If you are using the 233 it is aprox 3 1/2 inches long and causes problems by striking the case before the gears will fully engage. Anyway that was my experience when I couldn't get full engagement of all 5 gear positions of the 242

No pic. When you slam the shifter lever all the way forward it hits the end off the track, thats where I ground some off. Going the other way the lst thing it hits is the tab sticking out that keeps it from going into neutral, thats where I took off about 1/8 inch. That 1/8 lets the shift lever come back just a bit farther to fully engage FT position.

That's the same problem I had, but by grinding a small amount out of the back of the shifter it did let the lever move back farther and made 2W engaging easier.. I also ground about an 1/8 inch off the protruding stop tab which improved it moving into FT. It works fine , but if I ever run across an XJ in JY with a select trac ill grab the shifter & linkage out of it.

I think its gonna work fine, Looks good. I didn't want to make anything so I bought a 9mm Makarov and put it in my front pocket.

Did you also change the shift likage on the TC. I had to change that lil linkage so I could retain my old 231 shifter mechanism and get it to work correctly. I can't remember whether I had to use the 231 or 242 piece. It was only a couple inches difference in them, but, it made it work. I think it was of the 231. IDK.

Finally got the 89 full time light problem sorted out after swapping in the 242 a while back. My problem was a bad connection at the blue connector with the 10 wires located near the diagnostics test port connections. Specificaly pin E (female end). 87 - 90 (and maybe later to what date I don't know) are wired for 242 and 231 TC position indicator light on your dash. Ever wondered what that wad of wire (provided it hasn't been removed by a PO) is for that dead ends in behind the large TC shift attachement bracket bolted to the side of your transmission is for. It's waiting for that 242 you've been thnking about swapping in place of that 231. If these wires are no longer there you can run wire directly from electric TC switch to the blue connector. Anyway back at that connector: Position E YL/BLK wire is for full time indicator Position H RED/BLK wire is for part time indicator Those of you planning to eliminate your vacuum actuated front axles while retaining your 231 TC might want to look at this as a method of by-passing the vacuum position indicator switch.

I know my electric indicator switch is activated (part time light comes on) by the ball at the end of the switch dropping (spring assisted) into a detent in the transfer case Range Fork Shift Shaft when shifted into the Hi and/or Lo Part Time positions. There is no detent for the Full Time position, so I don't know whats suppose to make it light up. Looks like more searching of the internet is in order to determine how it works or what parts are missing.

I believe theres a bulb in the slot. Probally burnt out, I'll check it tomorrow.

Does the Full Time (FT) indicator light up when in FT? Seeing as how my 242 (89) conversion from a 231 only lights up the Part Time (PT) indicator when in PT & nothing when in FT I was just wondering. I guess you must have a different setup than mine which uses an electric indicator swt on the TC. Wasn"t aware there was an vacuum option available on the 87-90's with 242 TC. I kind of thought that was the reason those 242 came pre-wired and w/o vacuum disconnect. Tell me sum-thun..............Oh, my 89 XJ w/FT didn't have vacuum disconnect either. :dunno:

That about the the same install price in outer (rural) Oregon. In the larger cities where there is a little more competition it drops to about $125 for glass, trim, and install.

try this & read fifth thread down: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... 4+No+shift

Just a hair over 457 miles. 50$ gas at 2.85 (Don't know your price) be about 17.5 gal into 457 miles means you could have got 26 MPG possibly. Did you start & end with an empty tank???????????/ Ignor this I'm just bored. Lot of varible to consider.

As far as I Know the bumper I built & installed is the original (1st) bumper installed on this MJ. No signs or indications one was on it from factory & license plate light was for non-bumperized vehicle.

Anyone ever tried this product. Looks pretty heavy duty. http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/mer ... y_Code=MJB

Were you looking for a MJ trailer. Build it http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/1741493042.html

SF craigslist http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/cto/1741233878.html