deziped

This time of year all you need is the Camry. Best to bok a room ahead of your arrival. I been in that place when you couldn't get a room unless yuh knew someone. And they got a ton of rooms there. I'm not familiar with camping in that area.

A drill bit would correct that if yours is to small. Thats kinda like what the woman in the bar said to me, the b--------..

Saggig/twisting/bending was built into th MJ bumper. With 1/8" brackets welded to the bumper & bolted to the end of the brackets coming off the uni-body frame rails it was a weak design. They added a 44 3/4" long bar made of welded up 1/8 stock from one bumper brkt to the other as an after thought to add strength of little significance so that the bumper wouldn't buckle when you set a tow ball on it. . That thing is like being attached with fly swatter ends. Which ever way you slap it, it's gonna go. The fat lady stepping on the center of it can twist it outa shape.

Is it coming from one side or center? Does it do it when turning either direction? Got a bad axle bearing maybe, or loose axle, brake spring loose? Probally have to disassemble sum-thun to find it.

And not even a slider

Hmmmmm. Buy 50 or so & glue them to your headliner backer board. Instant new, expensive, & ughly headliner.

Fooled around with my fuel guage some. Low fuel light came on so I decided to see how far it would go before it ran out of fuel. The owners manual states you have 2 gals left when thr light comes on so I was feeling good & also confused when it chugged to a stop after 50 miles. 25 mpg is not bad I was thinking but not likely. So I start dumping gas in tank a gal at a time to see when the light will go off. It took 3 1/2 gal to put it out. That knocked my mpg to a little over 14 combined city/hwy. Anyways obvisiously my guage low fuel light is not working correctly as it is off by 1 1/2 gallons (3.5 instead of 2) remaining in tank. Allways gas up before it gets out of red area anyway so not worth fixing.

At one time I had owned an XJ with LS in front and rear & select trac, it was a go anywhere rig. Sold it somewhere along the way. Years later had a 97 Tahoe with new engine in it that I sold to my son real cheap (he robbed me) so I was looking for a small truck to use around home to haul trash etc.. I just happened to see an 88 2.5 SB on craigslist of make offer. Knowing that there were alot of cheap XJ JY parts available I figured this might be a good deal. Called the guy & picked it up for $300. Ran good & 4X4 and all worked good & rust free, but it was gutless. Gave it to my daughter. Started looking for a 4.0 MJ SB and located a similiar deal as the first one. Got it cheap cause the guy thought it was shot as oil was running straight through it (RMS) and the AW4 only worked in R and D (3rd). Replaced the RMS & 2 solenoids in the AW4 and it drove and still does like a champ. Rust free & 150k on it now. 2.5 in rear

So what engine do you have, a catepillar, SB chevy, or maybe a 2.5 or 4,0?

Are you talking sum-thun like this: http://www.softopper.com/Softopper_Mode ... =1986-1992 Jeep Comanche 73 inches There are others out there also.

Retired, so you all keep working now or get out and get a job and send your money to Uncle Sam, I need it. :D

12 - 15 PSI

Take a look see at these. Cheaper & more options available. http://www.tentrax.com/gallery/gallery.html

Theres gotta be away to shorten that down and widen it to work it into the face of an MJ/XJ.

If it wasn't for the military nobody of sound mind would live in 29 palms or the Mojave area. What a dryed up land scape. Looks like after affects of nuclear blast. And $3 gas. However close to Palm Springs and all them golf courses an swimming pool bunnies. Enjoy your new home there.

I've ordered several parts from them and their response was about as quick as it can get.

No shift automaticly from 1st to 2nd/3rd is probally do to a bad valve body solenoid. Disconnect the TCU terminal and with ignition off probe the #2 solenoid (vio-wht) wire with pos & neg grounded to tranny. If not in 11-15 OHM scale solenoid is bad. You don't have to pull the pan to do it but, if you can't find the correct wires it makes it simplier and you can pull the bad solenoid, if thats the case, while your in there. It could also be a case of corrosion or misalignment of the contacts in the NSS. This can be probed at the NSS unit connector usually located at the left rear of engine block near heater control valve. Place gear selector in 3rd and key on. There should be continuity between A and G marked on connector.

I got some at NAPA a couple years ago. If they no longer have them try : http://www.teamcherokee.com/Fuel_System/index.html I think their $9.95 a kit. Morris 4X4 might also have them. The dealer was a rip off.

Well that 5k mile trip is over. Got home this afternoon, return trip took 4 days at a much more pleasurable pace on I-40 and up I-5 to S Oregon. Warmed up to 103 across W AZ & the Mojave on in to Barstow. But didn't get uncomfortably hot. Only thing exciting on the trip was at Stockton when I pulled into a McD's at 10 PM and the wife rolled her window down for a little fresh air & was pounced on by a pro who wanted to know if she'd like a lil company for the night. I think if she'd had a gun it would have been lights out for the creepy thing. Couldn't tell what gender it was. Turned out the dark side of the joint was crawling withem. So I parked on the opposite side with more light and went in to grab a coffee. What a s--- hole that place was. There were as many inside as out. It was beyond filthy in the place and I decided that the coffee even if boiling was probally contaminated with bacteria. Walked away from that one. I'm going to email my 2c's worth to McD's corporate office, maybe they'll close the dump. Oops- forgot to mention I had a blow-out just out of Flagstaff. Was switching lanes when one of those little metal bumps they use as lane dividers was standing on end and punctured the side of my rear left tire. Ripped about a 3 inch hole in it. About 20 minutes and I was back on the road.

A 2400 mile sprint from So Oregon to Memphis only revealed one MJ and it was in what appeared to be a farmers JY along I-84 in Idaho. Drove 800 miles on 1st day and took 4 hour break in Odgen, UT. Last 1600 completed in one long run (6:00 AM Wed to 900 AM Thur) with only a planned one hour stop outside KC, and probally about an hours worth of fast food and p--- stops. Highest speed achieved accidentally was 94 mph. But made it 2 hours early for appointment. Have been sleeping walking for 2 days. Last time I will attempt a quick trip like that again.

And all this time I thought oil slingers just moved the oil away from the seal area.

I'd replace it, as without it (unless you block it off completly) you have heat going to the heater which disipates into the cab area during the Summer months even without the blower on. If you like it hot in the Summer you'll be just toasty. If you have A/C it'll be hot air coming out not cool.

time your evening stops (or any break time) to hit casino's in Lincoln City, Florence, Coos Bay, and one on the OR-CA border. That will eat up 4 days & 200 miles or so. Great resturant in Santa Rosa on the left about a mile from Golden Gate (Damn now I can't recall its name) Great breakfast & lunch menu. Now that wasn't much help was it.

It's one hellish time consuming drive. Crooked a-- road most of the way. But, you got time and you'll need it.

This AM bolted on a set 0f $5 yard sale fogs that was missing only a bracket bolt. They were mfg in late 70's (Durimex, now Delta brand) & were still in original box and never used. At 55W with a flat horizontal cutoff they'll fit my needs just fine. Still think I may hang them below the bumper to get them closer to the ground and spread out a little more on the bumper.