Keyav8r

Fronts will interchange between XJ & MJ, rears will not.

If you are considering eliminating your load sensing valve (as I was), do Don's check and adjustment procedure (below) first and see if it improves your braking. I took the arm off mine this morning and found the flat was at about the 4:30 - 5:00 position. After turning the flat to about 7:00 - 7:30 and re-installing the arm, I took my truck out for a test run. Braking action greatly improved from poor to good. The whole job, including getting and putting away tools, jack and stands took about 30.- 45 minutes and was well worth the time. I'm still planning on doing the '96 XJ double diaphragm booster upgrade but the priority has dropped a few spaces down on the to do list. Kudos to Don for this MJ Tech jewel.

OK - let us know how well it works, Don.

Clarification - are you removing and plugging the line to the load sensing valve (at the front of the distribution block marked #2) or the rear brake line at the bottom front of the block (marked #1)? Based on Step 3, I assume you're disconnecting the line marked #1 as you reference the distribution block snout line being connected to line to the rear axle, correct? I'm not happy with my braking and have a '96 booster and master cylinder in the garage and on the to do list. If that doesn't drastically improve braking, my next step is eliminating the load sensing valve.

Rarely make it that far north. Chattanooga occasionally on business, but that's about it. Thanks for the offer, though.

Grab it while you can! According to his ad, it's a 1998 MJ - the only one in existence!

Still looking for a bedliner for my 91 Eliminator. Located in the Birmingham area.

Ollie's Discount in Madison, AL - $4.79 per 12 oz. can.

Your cruise control vacuum line comes off the "large" vacuum that runs along the right side of the engine bay from the vacuum reservoir behind the bumper. If you have un-connected vacuum lines in the engine compartment you may not have enough vacuum to operate the cruise. The best schematic of the "factory" vacuum system is in the manual, as are the names and locations of all the vacuum devices. If/when you get the cruise control connected, test it somewhere safe. If it won't disconnect or keeps accelerating (as mine does) your only choice will be to turn the engine off (without locking the wheel) and pull to the side to manually disconnect cruise. That can be exciting.

From one Olde Phart to another, good to hear from you again!

Minuit does very good work on these radios. I'm running one of his radios in my truck and am completely satisfied with the appearance, the functions and the sound quality. This is an unpaid, unsolicited testimonial by an actual Minuit Radio owner.

If I had the head off mine I'd do everything I could on the top end and replace the timing chain, the water pump and the balancer. I haven't heard anything about the new lifters/old cam problem but I guess it's theoretically possible there could be some accelerated wear on the cam as the new lifters break in. Absent any strong evidence that the wear would be severe, I would change them.

You're right, but it bugs the $£!¥ out of me sometimes. Just had to say it.

if you are posting for technical information or assistance with a problem on your truck - POST THE YEAR AND DRIVETRAIN INFORMATION! That will save time and make it easier for others to help you. Better yet, put the info in your signature!

With the length of the truck it just says "Slam it!". And, I'm not a fan of slammed trucks. That will never be more than a trailer or street queen, so go for the whole look - 20" wheels with rubber band tires, etc. I'm jus sayin.....

P-A-P Mobile is showing 2 Comanches on the yard. 1991Sport with bed cover that Inreported earlier and they have added a 1988 with 4.0 and AW-4. No information on model or condition. Someone in the area go by and let us know about what's available from them.

It would help to know something about your truck - year, model, engine, drive train. There are some manuals and parts lists floating around the forum that may be applicable to your MJ.

I'll have to pull mine out of the corner and see if I can find the manufacturer's name.

I'm kind of an eclectic hoarder. Not really too much (as I see it) of any one category, just a lot of a lot different things. For instance - tools. I've got tools I requested as Christmas gifts that I haven't taken out of the box. About once every couple of months it's like Christmas all over again when I "find" a tool I didn't remember I had. Also like old tools, like my grandfather's belt driven cast iron wall mounted drill press (has to be at least 100 years old because he got it as surplus from his work when he retired) and a brass blow torch ( haven't either worked up the courage or been stupid enough to try to light it off). The usual stash of standard bolts and nuts and a lot of specialty fasteners I keep in a large tackle box for whenever I might need a left-handed metric toggle bolt. And, a fairly good size collection of bulbs, fuses, and small trim pieces from XJs and one or two MJs. And a bunch of stuff that I keep trying to throw away but my inner hoarder won't let me.

Well, he's relisted the radio at the same price. Think I'll sit this dance out, too.

I'd like to have one of those radios, but that one looks a little rough. Not expecting NOS condition, but would like a few less scratches.

Started to say druggies, but I'm not sure they would understand how much a CC was worth or be willing to work that hard for their next fix. Still don't know why people will work hard to steal something but not just get a job.

I'd like to crawl under it just to see how it was done. From the photos it looks like good worksmanship. But, Photoshop works wonders!

Was the fuse you replaced with a paper clip blown? If it was blown, it indicates a problem somewhere in the circuit. Put another fuse in and see if it blows. The fuse is there to protect the circuit and components. Don't leave the paper clip in place as there is a risk of overheating and fire. Have you checked for voltage at the fuse location with the ignition switch and wiper switch turned on? If no voltage is there, it could be in the wiper switch. If there is voltage there, check for voltage at the wiper motor connector. If no voltage at the wiper motor connector it could be the wiring from the fuse block to the motor. If there is voltage at the wiper motor connector, it may be the motor. Jump12 volt power and a ground straight to the connector and see if the motor runs as a double check on the motor. Be sure and get the polarity correct when you jump the power to the motor. You aren't telling us what year your truck. Will need that info to check the proper wiring diagram.

Fuel Sending Unit Repair in MJ Tech forum