88whitemanche

When I had the high idle one time. It was because I placed the vacuum lines in the wrong places and I had the same problem as you. The map sensor would bog the engine down by far from what I seen it wouldn't give you a high idle. I changed my idle speed controller because it would give a high idle at idle. And intermittently go from normal to high sitting at a stop or at a light. I say double check where your vacuum lines are located to make sure they are in the right places. Also check by pushing the isc screw to close the throttle plate to see if there's a difference in idle. If there is play in the isc then there might be a way to adjust it. But buying a new isc is always a better option. I bought mine for $53 shipped

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Amc all the way!!!!! I'm a big lover of the Chevy motors especially the 4.3 because it can be built like a 350 but the 4.0s in the jeep are made to be there....or stroker

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That 21 slot grill looks tempting...too bad I don't have my of header panel

Break a leg! And hope everything goes well for you.

Are you going to start a build thread on the other comanchE?

I was actually thinking about calling the guy about his bed cap...

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/cto/3831043314.html

Found the box in the truck I usually keep the push nuts and o-rings. Just in case if it happened again and I need to fix it in a parking lot or something....it's been a little over a year since I've been driving it since then and no problems yet. Here's the part number of the box I got

I remember exactly what the size was...but I did go to the help!!! Section and bought a pack of those push nuts at advance auto parts....they had different sizes and that pack had three of the same size push nuts for the fuel sender. Cost? 2to 3$

Yes it did fix the issue....it goes in the outside of the sender like shown in pic #1 and once you place through the hole. you use a new push nut so it can grab onto the rubber part of the connector. It's a job to do to hold the deep socket and clamp in place. But once you get it in...it'll be all worth it

That has happened to me before. It's leaking at that specific o-ring...it happens a lot on our truck building so much pressure or that the gas disintegrate the o-ring itself....there's a write up in the DIY section which shows a part that rebuilds that area. I've done and by far no leaks and trust me I filled up a full tank and watched over half a tank drop out.

Oops sorry I've been using the mobile version. Doesn't really show the limks or any of the signatures. Thanks

More pics of the red one!!!! Awesome build! Love the pic scenery and the new mods your doing to the truck

If I had the $$$ id buy that flatbed in a heart beat!!!!

I have a buddy of mine who has the same track bar and steering stabilizer. Just about that same price range including alignment because he did his lift with the same 4x4 shop he went to. I guess I have Togo do some research on particular track bars

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/cto/3839993516.html

Yeah I was thinking the same about the track bar...I've got a stock moog track bar because it was within my budget at the time but now I've really considered getting an adjustable track bar... What recommendations do you guys have? The cheapest I've seen. Is rough country but I know there are other stout track Bars out there. From you guys experience what's a good track bar for you guys within a 3in lift?

Hey guys I get a lot of vibration driving on the highway going about 45-65 mph....I've changed everything in the front suspension, balanced my tires 2 time with in the last month, control arm bushings looks good no cracks or anything, My tires are only about a year old, I've done three alignments with in the past 4 months in different shops and it still veers to the right but still happens to vibrate around those speeds... What can it be? I'm on a verge to buy some rustys adjustable short control arms all four for 200$ from a buddy of mine so that may help in future reference. One question is lets says if a tire shop were to lift my truck from the mid section of the frame to lift both axles off the ground does the front axle get off centered even with a new track bar?

I totally understand there's some subjects I would want to learn for future reference and never return. Lol but no problem anyway to learn from others or your own mistakes. always help. That's the benefits of working in a jeep

Nice...I bet the truck would run much faster with the light weight hood and other accessories....I was looking into another website but with a different design on the fiberglass hood.... http://www.mcneilracinginc.com/off-road-fiberglass/jeep/cherokee/

Well guys I think I have solved the problem...I was reading into another forum because of google and someone talked about adjusting the transfer case linkage. So I thought I'd give it a try... Talk about being over a half inch off in the linkage. Since sat night of fixing the linkage it hasn't grind at all or sound like a bag of rocks. I've done everything I can to see if it would grind and no problems "by far" thanks for some of the input guys....

I see these bikes all the time....I think to myself it would be cool to have a bike named a jeep comanche but it wouldn't be the same. Id prefer the truck itself than the actual bike.

Sounds like sweet deal! If it falls through. Hopes it does...