ftpiercecracker1

Check the DIY section, pretty sure there is a nice write up there on the 97 swap. :thumbsup:

unless you are prepared to do a good bit of modification the original tank is the only tank that will work. I got mine new from this site http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5/details/Jeep/Comanche/Spectra/Fuel_Tank/1990/SPIJP5B.html/?sc=Product+Listing+Page:4 , best price i could find. I have heard of some people putting in a larger dakota tank, but again like i said its gonna take some phinalgaling. EDIT: You could use just about any fuel tank you want IF you were into the idea of mounting it in your bed.

Thats high, but i don't think its 8 and 1/2, either way welcome to the maddness, er i mean club. :wavey:

I agree 100% on the overfueling issue, BUT lets say he does exactly what you said and dicovers 5 of the 6 plugs are drenched in fuel, now what? Or even 1 plug is drenched. either way its not going to be fun tracking it down.

I think he means engine side.

funny story, i had the same problem, so i figured using a stick would be THE BEST tool to use to clean out the bores. Need less to say much of the build up ended up falling in to the cylinders. But thats not the funny part, the funny part is that i broke off about a 1/2in of said stick in one of the cylinders. After giving my self a good a** kicking, I prayed to the jeep gods and fired her up. Ran like the champ i knew she was and never missed a beat. need less to say I would not advise using a stick, however i would not freak out if some of it falls in. Find one of those metal pipe cleaners and ream the bore out real well, then wipe as best you can with some kind of cleaning agent. Brake parts cleaner maybe?

Sweeeet. :chillin: I would like to see some dyno figures from that thing. and a price sheet :P

What could the ballast resistor possibly do to cause this? and he said he already did a fuel pressure test, said it was perfectly fine.

Yes to the vacuum ball located under the front bumper on the Passenger side, a nice place to relocate it is right under the pressure bottle. I will probably be doing this very shortly. For the purple/pink line just plug it. Its not a big deal, a lot of people delete the valve, like me for instance.

Ok, either way I would like to hear if you discover something. :cheers: I think the distribution setup is a very sound concept, its just unfortuate that once they go bad they can't be replaced, at least with a true MJ part.

Wow you guys got some nice rides :thumbsup: here's my and my brother's baby after a good bath. 1982 j10 body w/ gladiator front clip conversion, SBC chevy, vortex heads, .030 over, 75 shot of nitrous, 4in lift, true dual mustang exhaust, 35 BFGs, ford 9in rear (cause my brother snapped the D44), D44 front, Turbo400,TC unknown, PW, PL. Image Not Found Image Not Found

swede girls :drool:

The two lines you are talking about go out of the fire wall and go to the Vacuum ball (black line) and the heater valve(purple/pink line) If you can't see them in this pick let me know and i will do my best to point them out.

I hate you soo much, there have been at least a dozen times when i have been in a junkyard and been like " I could REALLY use some comanche club expertise" . Pull out my phone and realise its a brick. :doh:

Where the fuel line inserts into that vacuum cylinder there is a small O-ring that makes a seal. As small as it is without it, fuel will pour out of there. Either yours fell out during fuel rail removal OR it got cut when you went to insert the fuel line again. Most likely the first as it is VERY easy to do.

:agree: Taurus fans, if thats what you are talking about, pull a helluva lot of air, but like zebvance said BIG draw. and I have heard fitment aint no walk in the park.

HornBrod, I will take some pictures tonight and put them up so you can verify with your own eyes whether its the one you want or not, cause i would hate to tell you it is when it might not be and go through all the trouble. If it is the one you are after, PM your address to me and i will send it on down the river. :thumbsup:

I think you need to buy your daughter some VERY good walking shoes. ;) Just sayin or maybe a bicycle. :thumbsup: With a LOT of those reflectors.

Just about it! :laughin:

1. Make sure the front of your radiator is clear of debris, like leaves, dead grass and whatnot. This wil stop airflow and inturn cooling. 2. Take a look at your water pump do the fins look good? It is extremely rare for the fins to break off or wear down, but i have seen it, albeit it was not on a commanche. If you don't want to remove your pump I have heard of/and done the surge test, but never really liked it. If you want to try this instead of pulling the pump, start the truck, while keeping it running, using your hand squeeze the top hose as tight as you can, ineffect cutting off coolant circulation, and see if you can feel a "pressure" or a surge of coolant when you release the hose after a few moments, if you do feel this and are sure of it, your pump is most likely NOT the culperit. But like i said i don't really trust this method, but its easy to do. 3. This sounds like your fan clutch could be shot. To test, start truck and let it idle until it gets warm, say 190* roughly, then turn the truck off, pop the hood and try to spin your mechanical fan. If it spins with very little resistance, like super free/multiply revolutions, your clutch is shot. If when you try to spin it and you find resistance and/or it will not make a full revolution using its own momentum your clutch is probably still ok. 4. Not bleeding the system can/will cause overheating as well, Look in the DIY section for a great way to do this. EDIT: Here is the link http://comancheclub.com/topic/11684-bleeding-your-closed-cooling-system/page__hl__bleed 5. There are some other things that can causing overheating, like a blown head gasket and clogged catalytic converter but i would start with the above first. EDIT: What exactly is your temp gauge reading? Remember these engines are designed to run between 190* and 210* which would feel "boiling hot" if you were to grab the hose with your hand. I would also have flushed the block, forward and back.

Thanks! :D Its my comanche's BIG brother. EDIT: Geonovast, first i was like, :hmm: whats this supposed to be and then :idea: thanks for the assist.

I have finally gotten around to seleting a picture i would like to use for my avatar, but every single picture i have tried to use has been rejected as "bigger than 50kb" this is the photo, if it can be worked, that i would like to use. A big thanks to all the mods out there that keep this site in working order :thumbsup: Image Not Found

I have mine, but its kinda tricky, how would i tell if its a 90 or not? I just recently removed it from my truck cause i didnt like all the brake lines running all over the place. BUT if you could determine it works i would like to reinstall it. Its not in mint condition, but it still rotates perfectly free. just one question, who's paying for shipping?? :peek:

what were you expecting to get out of it? $800? :nuts:

A d44 for a comanche is excedingly rare, but its like trying to sell a million dollar mansion, ya its worth a good bit, but your target market is a pretty small one. Like mnkyboy said if you set it up for an XJ you probably could get $325-350 maybe a little more. If I were looking around and spied a d44 i would give up to 200 for a non beautified one and from 250-275 for one that has been gone over, like yours.