ftpiercecracker1

Been There Before! :dunce:

Pictures would really be helpful, but just from what you have written it sounds like it would take a lot work.

Are you looking for JUST this isulation or asking what kind/brand would be best? FWIW this is where i got mine, http://www.lobucrod.com/ reasonably priced and seems like good material. I have yet to install it to see if it actually works but i have high hopes. My only complaint is that it it VERY thin. To compensate i will be going to a junkyard to pull out some batting to give it a little extra bulk.

The two green wires have me confused, the only difference i can see between the two is that one of them has an opening on the connector and the other is solid, no slit. I guess the easiest way to tell is to see which green wire goes to the starter.

Thanks Keyav8r thats just what i needed. :cheers:

PM sent Keyav8r, thanks :thumbsup:

link don't work minibeast :dunno: , at least for me.

I turn my back for one second and BAM theres a ton of posts :laughin: . 88Whitemanche, I acutally already have that pic saved to my computer and yes i have tried tracing the wires to no avail. And thats with the entire wiring harness pulled and layed out. When i try and trace them i find they split off mulitply times, and when the whole harness is still encased in electrical tape and corrigated hose it makes it damn near impossible to do anything without tearing it completely apart. I will take a look at your link too minibeast.

:hmm: not exactly sure what you're talkin about, but i know for sure that this is the starter relay. I can't imagine why the alt would be wired to this. and when you google "jeep comanche starter relay" this is what comes up.

This isnt a real big problem, but since the day i bought my truck it has had a manual toggle to engage the starter, the key works for everything else, except for starting the truck. I was about 98% sure the problem lied with the starter relay, so i bought a new one, unplugged all the wires coming off of it and promptly forgot where in the hell any of them went. They all have the same connectors and there are five of them, there are also 5 tabs on my relay, 2 for the SOL tab. If anybody has a good discription as to where each wire SPECIFICALLY goes i would appreciate it immensly. I know the Relay has lables on it, but what good does that do me if i don't know what the wires go to? i need something like. . . black/white wire goes to tab labled 'G', orange wire goes to tab labled 'I' so on and so forth. There is also a large stud that is part of the relay that a whole buttload of wires go to, what do they all do? thanks folks

wow, so from what your saying the electromagnetic field coming off of the alternator was "jamming" the electronic signal from the Temp sensor? :nuts: Glad to hear that you figured it out, but that is definately a new one to me.

How to adapt your Renix throttle postion sensor (TPS) to a HO throttle body (TB) for $1.01, approx. After doing lots of research and thread hopping i have found several different approaches to this conundrum. I even tried a few of them, but either A. couldnt find the components B. didnt like the design or C. costly soooo, i choose to create my own, BEGIN THE DIY WRITEUP! Here is picture of all the components, tools, and other items i used. Image Not Found for tools all you need is a . . . Dremel with some kind of grinding bit (see picture(s) LARGE flat head screwdriver torx socket & ratchet I have an allen wrench nut driver because of the bolts i used, you will NOT need this unless the bolts you buy require it. Now, onto the rest. In order to make my adapter work you must have a Renix TB. On your Renix TB, remove the TPS sensor (TIP: to ensure you do not break the bolts off inside the TB, slightly tighten the two torxs bolts that hold it to the TB, this will break the bolts free of the locktite, trust me on this.) Image Not Found Once the sensor is free and out of the way take a look at how the Renix TPS functioned. On the TB itself you will see a small arm sticking off of a stem coming out the side where you removed the TPS from. Image Not Found Using your LARGE flat head screw driver pry off that little arm.Image Not Found It does come off, it just takes a little encouraging, don't worry to much about bending it as it is easy to correct, BUT do be extra careful as to not break off the arm piece. Once off this is what you shold have. Image Not Found Now with the arm removed the next step is to imploy your trusty dusty dremel. (TIP: A vice makes this next step much easier.) Take your dremel and grind out ever so slightly on the top and bottom, (V see pictures V) Image Not Found Image Not Found Now, if you look on your HO TB you will (should) see a tab sticking out of its side where its original TPS was mounted to. Image Not Found The purpose of the grinding you just did on that little arm apparatus was to make just enough room to allow it to slip over this tab, I had to grind it down two or three times before the hole was large enough. You want to make this as perfect of a fit as possible, so take your time. Once it slips over the tab it should look a little like this. Image Not Found The next phase is to source two new bolts and some spacers. The best way to find the proper bolts is to take in your old ones and compare until you find a set that will work, TSC, LOWES, HOME depot, all have a section of specialty nuts/bolts/washers in their hardware isle. These are the bolts I used, I apologize as i do not have the dimensions for them. And i apologize again because, since i am apprently a "preferred" customer at Fastenal i was given them free of charge B) , but in reality they could not have been more than a dollar, tops. Image Not Found and here are the spacers i used, from Lowes, for $1.01, I even have my reciept to prove it :rotfl2: They make a 100% perfect fit Image Not Found Now that you've got your spacers, bolts and have the "fixed" renix arm you might be thinking "alright now its time to bolt it up!" Not quite skippy. The last thing on the to do list is to break out that Dremel one last time and wallow out the bolt holes on either side of your Renix TPS. Focus 100% of your efforts on the INSIDE of the slots, it only needs a little so don't go hog wild. Image Not Found Image Not Found The original Renix TPS bolt slots do not line up with the HO bolt holes, doing the above will correct this. Once the slots are widened you should now be ready to put this baby together. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Congradualtions! You have just saved yourself a possible bill of $145 bucks, that is if you were to buy your adapter from Hesco. Here is a video of the adapter in action. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

SORT of? Thats the understatement of the century right there, removing the cable from the bracket is a total B***H. I had the bracket completely out of the truck and it took me 45min to get it free. :laughin: The problem is that the little taps that keep it in place are spring steel (you can just fold them over) and pretty darn stout to boot.

:agree: :clapping: amen to that brother!

I've heard that this is normaly a sign of bad sycros, BUT could this also be caused by a failing slave cylinder not fully engaging/disengaging perhaps? I bring this up because my ax-15 is bad about this "notching/grinding" thing, especially going from 1st to 2nd AND 2nd to 3rd.

Yup, that aint to pertty, but far from the worst that i've seen. And if it looks that bad up top, i would be scared to see whats in your oil pan. I would bet the creature from the Black Lagoon wouldnt even go near it. :rotf:

AH, i see. Even though, it still suprised me the first time i discovered it. I was like "What? No way, headlight delay on a 90 JEEP! Awesome. 8) "

um, not to highjack, buuuuut my 90 has auto turn off headlamps. If I turn the truck off with the headlights on and THEN push the switch in they will stay on for about 2 or 3 min and automatically shut off. but IIRC i have never heard a buzzer for my headlights, but i have heard one for my seatbelt.

:agree:

That sounds pretty high, but i am no 2.5 expert. For the 4.0 i know 40 psi is ideal.

if i were to go with the 8.8, do the brake lines use the same fittings? or would i need to cut, get the right fitting, and reflange? or adapter? and what about driveshaft length, universals, and E-brake lines??? :???:

92 :drool: 2wd :ack:

There IS a four banger XJ in the yard, but its a 91. They have a bunch of XJs of all years. At LEAST 25 explorers, even an old J10 :brows: . Will a D44, 8.25, 8.8, etc look the same under all vehicles? Will i be able to distinguish it using the same methods?

so a d44 from an early (define early) cherokee is the ideal axle for ease of swap AND durablitily? Will it say d44 on the diff cover? or can it be ID by the number/pattern of bolts on the housing?

Not trying to highjack here, but a local pull apart has about every axle you can imagine and they only want 45 bucks no matter what make, model, year or size. If you could is there any other axle that you would go with other than the ford 8.8? Unfortunately a Comanche is the only thing they don't have so no D44. Obviously the comanche axles would be the easiest to swap out, but what comes next in swapablility besides the 8.8? thanks guys