ftpiercecracker1

I was wondering if anyone has done this. Not sure how to go about it, but i think it would be really cool if someone has made there own. If you have I would love to see some pics! and even if they aren't "d rings" if you made your own tow points, hooks, whatever i'd like to see em. :yes:

Na, i was just outside M-boro on a road called Mt. Herman, there are 3 salvage yards within 2 miles of one another and none had what i sought.

Is he a CC member? whats his username?, If i could see his profile pic i could tell you if it was him or not

I could swear i saw a CC member today, i was on a back road today going to a salvage yard and saw a really nice comanche, stock super clean creme color with factory detail package with twin CB antennas up againt the cab. I am nearly positive its one of you guys because i have seen it being used as a profile pic. I have yet to find anyone in my area so it would be really cool to finally find someone. I live about 20 miles from Murfreesboro, TN. Smack dab in middle Tennessee

8"in of lift? did you have any driveline angle issues? Might be the wrong term, i mean driveshaft to T-case angle.

Are you talking about the little rain catch that is built into the body? looks like a minature gutter?

Here is where i plan to get mine. http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpe ... odelId=249 A VERY nice touch to this company is that they will send you FREE samples of their carpet so you can see first hand what they have or to just color match to your original carpeting. They have tons of colors, plushness, and thicknesses to choose from.

Well sadly the deal was called off this after noon, I guess the search continues, Oh well i'm not in a rush any ways, thanks for the help guys :thumbsup:

Thanks guys i really appreciate the information :cheers: , I will let the guy know that unless he can send pictures to prove it is an AW4 100% I won't be able to do a swap with him. Unfortunetly, the gentleman is over 3hrs away :( so i can't exactly walk over and take a look for myself. But barring the fact that the transmission has a high percentage of not working, if I did the swap anyways I could probably get over 400 in just scrap for the thing and local junkyards are asking between 250 to 325 for their AW4. Not to mention i wouldnt mind getting the head off of that HO for my stroker build. I will ask him to send pictures just to be sure he doesnt have his jeeps confused, just in case he is mistaken and he has the typical cherokee were there any other transmissions that came in them besides the AW4?

I apologize if the topic title makes me sound a little demanding, but it is time crucial. I have posted on Craigslist an ad to trade or sell my AX-15 and i recieved a call from a fellow this evening. Here is what he said. He said he has a 94 Grand Cherokee 4x4 that has the 4.0 HO with an automatic Trans, I assume it is the AW4. He is willing to give me the ENTIRE vehicle, minus the axles, coil spring setup, and something else, can't remember, nothing that I would need for the swap, in exchange for JUST my transmission, no T-case. before i go any farther with this deal there are several things i would like to have clarified. 1. Isnt 94 before the Grand cherokee (ZJ?) came out? 2. If yes, i've never heard of them coming with the 4.0 3. Did any Grand cherokee come with the AW4? 4. If the everything checks out and it is just what he says it is, is this something that could be swap-able??? I have a 1990 eliminator it will be going in that has be gutted to the max. thanks for all the help guys :thumbsup:

Ok then whats the alternative to the AAL that seems to come with every lift kit out there? Who sells 3in lift springs? Hell creek? :dunno: Also, if anyone bothered to follow the link, they offer quite a few upgrades to the basic kit, but are there any in particular that i should be looking at getting? Upgrades obivously mean better, but i can't afford premium everything (almost 2k). i am asking about critical upgrades that would make the biggest difference. thanks

On BDS suspensions there is an excellent 3in kit for a really good price, but it lifts the rear via AAL :ack: , I was wondering how well it would work if I just did an SOA conversion for the rear and added a 2.5 coil spacer to make up for the difference. Say i get 5in in the rear from SOA :dunno: 3in front from lift + 2.5 spacer= 5.5in if it works out like this ^ i would be sittin pretty. Check out the kit, http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=7& ... =1986-1991 I think this is one of the best kits out there for the price (I've checked rough country, rocky road, hell creek, to name a few) and i have heard nothing but good things from this company

I usually don't do this but I think you meant "intents and purposes" :smart: Great Write up, can't wait to try! :thumbsup: You know, i never realized that until now. :rotfl2: :dunce:

For all intensive purposes the writeup is done :chillin: . There are a few other things i will add that i thought might be helpful, but arent crucial to the project. I really REALLY hope people can understand what i did, if you have any questions PM me, i check it every night. thanks for your guys patience. :wrench:

I'm gonna take a WAG here and say he probably drilled a hole for it before re-install. Brilliant deduction holmes. ;) I WILL BE FINISHING THE WRITEUP TONIGHT 7/26/12

WARNING: This is my very First writeup Tools you will need: angle grinder w/ cutting and tiger paw wheels bench vice wire cutters electric drill welder, i SUCK at welding and managed to use a plain jane arc welder, if you can get a hold of one, use a MIG assorment of pliers/channel locks couple of wrenches/sockets a torch would be helpful, but i didnt have one dremel w/ metal bit Its not perfect, but it does the job. Your first step is to completely remove the e-brake from the truck, three bolts. The cable attached at the bottom is VERY hard to remove, but you CAN do it without cutting. There should also be a single wire with connector, this is just a simple grounding system that turns your "brake" light on and off. I can give more detailed information on removal if needed. This is what mine looked like after the fix. When you pull yours it should look identical minus the hex bolt. Now that you have the bracket out and set onto your work table, you will see there are two springs used to operate the assembly. Remove them and set them aside, you WILL reuse the larger of the two. This spring's sole (soul?) function is to hold the catch arm against the e-brake, keeping the brake locked and YOU in place. For me personally I found it to be a little weak so i made one that i liked. I will show you what i did a little farther on. With the springs removed its time to start cutting. On the back side of the assembly there is other portion of the pin you just ground flat. It is a large round head that will be recessed into the bracket. IT DOES NOT UNSCREW, it is PRESSED AND WELDED into place. This is what mine looked like after hacking it to pieces. The next thing to do is to remove the brake release arm. then this whole bracket. . . Not sure if it has a name, but it is held on by just one pin as well seen here v v v (The loseness of this pin allowed a great deal of play in the arm that was responsible for locking the brake in place, not good, but after my hack job there is nearly zero play) You can try using a drill and come from the side shown above, but i found it MUCH easier to just use the grinder again to smooth off the other side of the pin, Now with the pin flush use some kind of tool (punch, screwdriver, etc) to pop it out, and discard. This is what was left of mine v v v Now everything should be ready to take apart, and you should have something like this v v v Its not in the picture, but you should also have 1 small keeper washer and another smaller spring Now its time to cut the stem that was left over from the pin that held on the pedal. Cutting wheel worked great for me. :thumbsup: You will find that your pedal sits on top of a hump that is made into the bracket, this is also why the head of that main pin is sunk down into the bracket :ack: . Because i did not have a torch to just blow the pin out from the bracket i had to literally cut the pin out taking the hump with it, v v v IF you do have a torch, you might be able to save yourself a lot of headache and just blow the remaining pin out, just be sure to preserve as much of the hump as possible so you won't have to rebuild it like I had to. Now its time to take a trip to your local specailty fastners shop. 2 dock washers (not a misspelling) to replace the hump if you had to cut it out, they look just like normal washers just really thick, ask about em COST: about 7 bucks One 2 1/2 inch bolt to replace the pin that held the secondary bracket, pedal and main bracket together, make sure it is as tight a fit as you can find, *get a grade 3 bolt and a grade 8 standard nut, i will explain later One 3/4 inch "button head" bolt. This bolt is to replace the pin that held the secondary bracket and lock arm to the main bracket. The "button head" with an allen wrench fitting is a must because it allows you to tighten and loosen the accompaning nut without having to remove the release arm everytime. You will need to matching locknuts for each of those bolts, the locknut will allow you to tighten them up enough so that it minimizes play while still allowing free movement.You will need to get a locknut for each of those bolts, the locknut will allow you to tighten them up enough so that it minimizes play while still allowing free movement. To make it so the head of the bolt will not interfere with the motion of the release arm you will have to do a little clearancing with a dremel on the secondary bracket. If you are going to replace the small spring i showed you at the top of this post you will need to visit your local TSC (tractor supply company) They sell a package containing two springs about 5in long that are of a slightly smaller diameter than the one that came on your E-brake. IIRC cost about 4 bucks. These were the only ones i could find that offered the strength AND diameter that i was looking for. Trust me if you find the ones i bought you will be VERY suprised at how strong they are. If you find them you will see right away they are WAY to long. You will have to cut a section to the appropriate length and bend yourself a new hook on the cut end. This is what mine ended up looking like and it works great! :thumbsup: How it looks installed. . . Once you have all the hardware, take the two dock washers and weld them together along their seem. Make sure to keep them as perfectly lined up as possible while welding so that the bolt's path will not be thrown off. This is where a vice comes in handy. Once welded together use your grinder to remove a large portion of one side. This is because there is a piece that extends down from the bottom of the pedal that hits the washers as it rotates around and prevents it from seating, turning and untimately functioning. This is what mine looked like after a little grinding. You can see just how much the bolt hole has been offset, however this still needed a lot more grinding. You will need to partially assemble and disasemble the bracket several times to determine if you have grinded down the washers enough. Reassembly: Place the welded dock washers over the spot where the hump used to be, unwelded at this point. Then the pedal. . . Then reinstall the secondary bracket with new bolt and locknut, the "button head" should be put so that it faces into the cab. You could call it the inside of the bracket. Tighten the locknut down until the lockarm is just free enough to move without resistance. This should help hold everything in place. Now you can take your other bolt and put it through with the threaded portion coming out the back. (UPDATE: before you install this for the last time, turn the bolt around so that the head is on the back of the bracket, this allows for as close of a fit as possible to the body) Take the STANDARD nut and thread it down, but do not tighten. Since you have the bolt through holding everything together you should be able to spin the dock washers around until they allow the pedal to seat flush againt the washers. All that matters is that it sits flat for now, once you get the washers tacked down you can take everything back off and grind the washers until you get proper clearance. When it comes to the final welding of the washers to the bracket, I can't tell you where to put them, you just have to try and operate the pedal a few times to determine where it needs to be welded for it to function properly. I used a C-clamp to hold everything perfectly still and then tried to use the pedal to determine where it need to be. To make it as easy as possible the only spring that should be in place should be the one on the release arm. Here is mine welded into place with locknut installed, yes i know my welds are grotesque :ack: but hey metal is fused to metal thats all i care about. After cleaning up the welds tighten the nut down and cut off the excess bolt. This is why I suggest using a low grade bolt with a high grade nut. The high grade nut stands the best chance of clearing the threads of slag and other crap that might other wise bogger up the threads. before you take off the nut try out the pedal a few times to see if it works and has unhindered range of motion. You will probably need to go back and grind off more of the washers to make more room and while your at it you can weld the inner seem. If everything works and has free range of motion you can now put on your locknut and tigten down in the same fashion as the other locknut. Install your custom spring and clip and bend the original larger spring to your liking. BE AWARE the metal is brittle and if bent to many times it WILL BREAK OFF. And there you have it, if everything worked out your newly rebuilt E-brake should work like a thing of beauty. aaaaand if not PM me. :thumbsup: To be honest i have yet to install mine, but i am nearly 100% sure you,we, i will have to drill a hole in the side wall to clearance the new locknut sticking out the back.

I used to use an 8in belt knife :rotfl2: but anyway, about the fix. . . I will let you know now this project was NOT easy. I will try to do my best to take pictures and explain clearly, it won't be easy. also the way i did things might not be the best, so if you discover a better way i would love to hear about it. ;)

Take a test light and see if you have power, if yes, find your ground and clean it up. Also there maybe more than 1 fuse to check, 1. inline just behind the new radio, cylindrical lookin 2. fuse box itself 3. on the back of new radio, literally, mine has this not sure what else, but hope this helps :waving:

I honestly can't believe I pulled it off, but i've done it :jump: . Besides a few more adjustments, I have the assembly back together and it works beautifully. That being said i have yet to put it under "load" as in actually holding the truck in place so. . . (knocks on nearby wood) To be honest, it would probably be cheaper just to get another assembly from the junkyard, but I just like to tear stuff apart to see if i can make it better, and boy is it ever. :yes: I can give more detail and pictures if anyone is interested.

working on it. But it hasnt been easy. I am fairly confident i can make this work, its just gonna take some time. :wrench: I know it will work great once its done. ;)

Thats exactly what mine was doing when i had everything together. Push down and it would never hold. If you kept your foot there it would hold the truck on a 90* slope, but it would let go as soon i you let your foot off. i will probably go ahead and do what i have planned, who knows maybe i will develop the very first DIY E-brake fix writeup. Which would also happen to be my first write up. That would be awesome. :drool: thanks for the interest :thumbsup:

These pictures are really making me mad. :hateputers: First they are to big, then i come back and they're too small. i've tried resizing them through photobucket till blue in the face, but it makes no difference. Is there someway i can talk to a moderator so i can figure this out once and all? I tried to follow the instructions on the "test 1 2" page, but it is for an out of date version of photo bucket. The version i am using is not the same. Newer? :dunno: Could someone show me how to do it? It is extremely frustrating. sorry for the rant .

Instead of starting a new topic i figured i would just revive this one. Unfortunately, after tearing the ENTIRE dash and harness apart and i could not find any plugs on the passenger side that might have gone to a TCU. :( I found this write up and it is fantastic, BUT there are some key questions that it does not answer, it also makes the swap seem way WAY harder than i was first led to believe. http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/aw-4/aw-4-1.htm

I have a little isuzu that had the exact same problem, i unplugged the electrical plug that plugs into the back of the air controler and found corrosion on the tabs. Once i cleaned them up it has worked like new. might save you from having to tear apart your dash.

I recently removed my assembly and found that the whole thing is as loose as a goose, the pedal wobbles as well as the retaining tooth. Image Not Found here's my thought, why don't i just drill this ^ puppy out, replace it with a bolt and tighten till it quits wiggling Image Not Found same with this, replace with bolt and tighten, it seems the whole stupid assembly is held together by these "bass akward" pin things that can't be adjusted. :fs1: Image Not Found Also i had the brilliant :idea: idea to put a MUCH stronger spring in place of the one that holds the retaining tooth against the rotating plate deal.