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ftpiercecracker1

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Everything posted by ftpiercecracker1

  1. ftpiercecracker1
    This is the company that has rockers, but are a really REALLY poor fit, every other company i have been to carry the exact same one. I am still waiting to hear from Jeepman as to where he found his rockers. He is the only person i have heard of finding exact fit replacement rockers, except for the guy in the link of my very first post above.
  2. ftpiercecracker1
    Anything can be made to work, but if you are looking for a direct swap this probably aint it. You will probably have to shorten your driveshafts and get a custom wiring harness. Also make sure the Tcase is on the drivers side, not sure if its even possible, but you might want to see if the tcase can be rotated (reclocked?) into the correct position. hope this helped
  3. ftpiercecracker1
    Wish i had known about them a week ago. You say distributor, but what distributor? Is the actual name of the company Perfect Fit?
  4. ftpiercecracker1
    Soo. much. INFORMATION!!! :papers: Its a veritable library of Renix troubleshooting ideas.
  5. ftpiercecracker1
    got a link? and are you sure they arent just ment to cover up your old rocker? Because like the guy said after you there are some companies that do make rocker panels, but its takes a crap ton of work to get them to work right.
  6. ftpiercecracker1
    Here is a helpful little write up on repairing your cab corner and rocker panel. The person who did this was lucky enough to get a perfect factory match rocker panel from Mopar while they were still avaiable. As far as i know there are no suppliers providing direct fit rocker panels any more, much less cab corners. I would suggest you find a scrapped MJ in a junk yard and cut out its cab corners, this is probably going to be your only option, unless you want to make your own. . .. .. like i did.
  7. ftpiercecracker1
    got it. :thumbsup:
  8. ftpiercecracker1
    How can you, he tell its even a jeep? :dunno:
  9. ftpiercecracker1
    :hmm: hmmmm, sounds plauseable. We just replaced the ballast and both tubes a few weeks ago, as far as i can remember it has never had a problem with the cold before, the same fixture has been in the barn for about 25 years. Sooooo :dunno: . I will see about the higher power ballast, or if all else fails i will just take a hair dryer out to the barn whenever I need to work after dark. :laughin: What are the alternatives to fluorescents, since they are so cold collard?
  10. ftpiercecracker1
    ya, i was definately NOT buying them new. Just gonna run up to a pull a part and snag some, better than mine, for quick fix. But now that you mentioned what you did I will get the interior seals from the yard and just move my inners to the outside like you suggested. thanks bud. :cheers:
  11. ftpiercecracker1
    Now that your mentioning it, I have some fluorescents in my barn. An 8ft and a 4ft, and when ever it get cold (F* < 60*) the larger 8 footer is dramatically dimmer, pretty much useless, but the 4 footer has never had a problem no matter the temp. Got any ideas? sorry for the highjack.
  12. ftpiercecracker1
    The outer window seals on my truck are utterly shot, These. Not my truck BTW. I have heard the newer cherokee seals are a good upgrade? Got any suggestions? much appreciated.
  13. ftpiercecracker1
    :shake: If that aint the truth I don't know what is.
  14. ftpiercecracker1
    man, :drool: wish i had a shop that nice. Excellent work my friend :clapping:
  15. ftpiercecracker1
    Sorry bud, but Comanche county already beat you to the punch, couple threads down named "Nice Try"
  16. ftpiercecracker1
    I thought so, but i'm no metalurgist. VERY hard to bend , at the stainless not at you, :P
  17. ftpiercecracker1
    Thats funny :hmm: , then why is it so difficult to drill through a sheet of stainless compared to a sheet of mild steel? I have had the exact opposite experience with stainless, it being far harder than any other mild steel. Drill bits won't touch it, hacksaw won't cut it, and they eat grinding wheels like they aint even there. :hmm:
  18. ftpiercecracker1
    :agree:
  19. ftpiercecracker1
    :agree:
  20. ftpiercecracker1
    Ya but the rest of us arent made out of money. :D Speaking of stainless, if it's even possible, how much would it cost to have a comanche frame made out of stainless? :brows: $2,500? $3,000?
  21. ftpiercecracker1
    Isnt there some grinding required for that?
  22. ftpiercecracker1
    Well i'll be a monkey's uncle :shake: , wouldnt you know, it works like a charm. Ya know i deserve a real good knock in the head right about now :thwak: Either way i am glad we could figure it out, thanks fellas, particular you Fiatslug87 :cheers: .
  23. ftpiercecracker1
    Wow . :oops: Thats, my exact mirror, and i new about that thread this whole time i just thought it was for a different setup. Guess i should have checked it out first :fool:
  24. ftpiercecracker1
    Even if they got it over and going down i would imagine those ramps would have just buckled.
  25. ftpiercecracker1
    This wouldnt be a problem if the dim/door open lights werent dependent upon a switch being thrown.
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