ftpiercecracker1

This here is a video of the most merciless torture to a 4.0 comanche i have ever come across. I found it quite some time ago its really an superbly put together video, but didnt get to puttin it up here until now. May God have mercy on their soul. :USAflag: :MJ 1:

Welcome, good thing you pulled the carpet too. Now lets see some pictures. :thumbsup:

Like a rubber boot?

With the engine ICE COLD start it, let it idle and take a can of Carb cleaner and spray around the manifold and all vacuum hoses. If there is a vacuum leak it will pull in the cleaner and you will hear your idle change. Most likely sputter and or die if bad enough. If you use this method keep a fire extingusiher handy, cause this stuff can ignite if the engine is/becomes hot. As for the High RPMs you could have a faulty TPS sensor.

in a blizzard. I can't see any mechanical problem here, but as stated before just take it easy. Certainly no high way speeds. Instead of rear wheel drive its now just a front wheel drive, so long as you don't have a spooled front end there should be no problem. I done this my self just to see if it was possible and to see if 4wd was slipping out, hadnt done the CAD lock yet.

what motor?

Wow, bravo. :clapping: Simply fantastic work, he is a true mechanic. Not just another parts replacer. I hope someday i am that good with electrical. :bowdown: I wonder what another less capable shop would have charged, i would bet my paycheck any other shop would never have found the problem.

dang 14 trucks, i can only imagine what all this guy has got. D44s, rear bumpers, fuel senders, tanks, ahhhh :drool: I need to get a job, again. :shake:

Yup once you know how its done its Really easy, i tried following the first writeup on here and got lost, didnt have the same setup, or something like that. If you get lost following the writeup PM i would be happy to offer assitance.

I like :yes: , mickey mousing and all

You guys really don't think its that bad? When i first noticed it, i took a hammer and beat the crap out of it to knock the lose rust away and when i finally saw what i was dealing with I thought all was lost. I can't really get all the rust out, it completely thru the laminations of the metal I would have to cut, and that is where i am wondering if that piece of angle iron would suffice as a patch.

That would be awesome, i would be very much interested in knowing what he would charge.

How? :hmm:

This is a quick writeup for adding a newer model rearview mirror to your MJ. Just as a forewarning you have to remove your headliner to do this properly Ok here we go . . . Unfortunately i did not take note of where i got this mirror except it was from a PnP. Image Not Found This particular mirror has three wires. . . Orange, Black, and White Orange will be a Constant hot. Black your Constant ground White is a switched ground, door open / lights on, door closed / lights off In this picture you can see where i have fed the wires up as to keep them out of the way and consolidated. Also you can see what to do with the BLACK wire in this picture as well. Use a VERY short self tapping screw. You can use a round wire crimp or do what i did and strip a whole bunch of the wire back and wrap the bare copper wire around the screw shaft. IF you have working vanity mirrors, this makes things much easier. Take the orange wire and splice into the hot vanity wire, simple as that. * If you don't have vanity mirrors you will have to find a source for you hot, possibly the radio, which will require significantly longer wire to be run, but still 100% doable. Next its time for the Switched ground, white wire. . . Ignore the second black wire, you will only need one. The wire you decide to use will need to be long enough to run along the roof to the Passenger side A pillar, down the A pillar and into protective plactic cover at the bottom. Now that you have the wire run you need to tap into your Floor board light harness. There will be two wires going to the bulb, a red/pink one and a black one. Splice the wire you have just run into the BLACK wire. After this, test it out see if everything works. Function, Door open both map lights will come on together. Door closed lights go off, BUT you will be able to turn them both on individually. If it works, tuck everything back in, glue your new mirror in place and your done. P.S. Store bought super glue actually works pretty good.

This is a problem spot on the PASSENGER side of my truck that has been bugging me since i first noticed it. Obviously this is not a good thing, but is it bad enough that will cause my truck to break in two? The drivers side is in Far better condition although it does have a few bubbly places there are no holes to speak of. Image Not Found If this can be mended, how would i go about it? I have a good solid piece of 1/4in angle iron, perfect length. when i put in place it covers up the holes with about a 1/2in of overlap.

I am using the HO Fuel rail, which means i have to use the longer HO fuel lines, Can i just get a complete set from a donor? Rail to tank. EDIT: i just had a thought, I think the only way it would work would be if i found an HO comanche, Cherokee has the fuel tank in a different location. Sooo how would one make the HO fuel rail work, if you can't find an HO comanche?

Why was this moved to Tech? I put it in the Pub because its not a technical problem. :hmm:

Thanks guys, but i already knew about both of those. Although they say Eliminator they are nothing like mine. Not my truck be this is exactly the decals my truck has, the only thing its missing is the grey eliminator lettering on the bed corner where it meets the cab.

same here.. . :hmm:

:agree: :popcorn:

With all that HornBrod and Alexia have said don't let it deter you from stroking your 4.0 if its not an HO. Every single jeep 4.0 head ever made will bolt onto every single jeep 4.0 block ever made. NOTE: I said 4.0 to 4.0 My original motor was the old school Renix, crappy head, crappy intake, crappy TB. To combat this I picked up a 7120 head, which actually requires you to run a different intake, so i got myself the better 99 manifold and ordered an overbored TB to match. Now that this was all done the only difference between my motor and an HO was the fuel rail/lines and the throttle bracket. I understand what the guys are trying to say, but i don't think any one 4.0 would be the best its just which one is the easiest and provides you with the best starting platform. If that were the question then yes an HO would be the best way to go. I know that the newer (unsure start year) 4.0 blocks have extra webbing in the castings, making them stronger, BUT paradoxically I have also heard the older 4.0 blocks, pre HO, contained a higher nickle content, superior internal wear protection. However the only one i can confirm 100% is the first one. Really all this jaw jacking ( :rant:) is pointless, no matter what path you take a stroker is BA. Mine should be getting wrapped up in the next few weeks. 8) :driving:

Purple Powa! :rock on: Foaming engine degreaser, Formula 88, soak it, scrub the hell out of it, then pressure wash.

Darn i thought mine was special. :cry: Well shes special to me at least, one nice thing about her is the factory skids :P

Maybe his injectors are not recieving the signal to cycle open/close?

I can't tell you how glad i am to hear that you are doing this, maybe after you enlighten them we can finally get some decent replacement rockers. I certainly would be down for a set . . . or three :clapping: