ftpiercecracker1

What would loose intake bolts have to do with excessively high idle? :hmm: Loss of vacuum?

Hence why I said, "for simplicity sake." However, i forgot about port differences and that being the case he could just swap out the heads, but then again, what was the purpose of getting the HO in the first place. :dunno: If he doesnt mind the difficulties involved in a HO/Renix hybrid, I say go for it. :D

What would it do if you disconnected your TPS entirely?

I think for simplicity sake he should just use all Renix controls. Then it would be a purely bolt on/bolt off affair.

No i have a brick for a phone. :(

$3,500 at most, It looks like it is excellent condition but he doesnt list how many miles are on it or have any pictures of the iterior.

Now that i know the stroker motor has been temporarily set aside, I have to determine my next best plan of action, since i still have a engineless comanche sitting in my yard. Should I find used 4.0 a plop it in? If so, should i trust a junkyard? This would be the very cheapest route, I can get the entire drivetrain for less than $250 Or is there another powerplant alternative that is fairly inexpensive? To be honest i can't think of one. I think my best option is to find a 4.0 off of craigslist, realitivly low miles that somebody pulled to do a SBC swap. $500 is my top dollar for an engine of any kind, and it has to be 100% issue free.

Take a picture just to be sure, but i couldnt imagine why you couldnt do it.

Fortunately the stock ECU will manage a stroker perfectly fine, after a few miles the computer will relearn how to manage the newly found displacement. Forced induction is where you run into problems, Stock ECU Renix or OBD doesnt know how to interpret boost pressure. and those toytards you speak of, are running planetery gears low enough to make a tractor look like a dragster, double transfercases, and probably have a max speed of 5mph. Aint no fun in that, in my humble opinion. Its is true you can spend you life savings building a stroker. A guy i was going to buy an AW4 from a few months ago built probably over a dozen strokers in the past couple years, his spent 18,000 on his latest one. Its a turbocharged 4.7 liter that puts out a little over 500HP and something like 623 ft/lbs. According to him its the second most powerful jeep 4.0 stroker to be built, second only to 505 performance's stroker. He says it will melt the tires at 60mph, and the best part is that its in a comanche. :brows: he sent me some pictures but i have long since deleted them. I will build a stroker eventually, don't know when. But you can bet your sweet @$$ i will, count on it. :chillin:

:cry: sad face, pretty sure its not going to work, there goes 8 months of waiting. Block work: Bore & hone - $130 Recondition crankshaft - $125 Recondition rods - $75 wash tank - $35 R&R pistons - $40 Block Deck - $100 Line hone - $110 Head work: Valve grind - $175 Mill the head - $80 Valve guides - $85 Port & polish - $150 Engine Parts: pistons rings rod bearings main bearings gasket set oil pump timing set camshaft cam bearings + push rods ______________________ $600 (approxiately) Other, yet still required: Dyno tune - $450 Assembly balance - $185 All totaled it comes to $2,338 and this is a conservative estimate. $2,500 is a much more appropirate budget. I will be talking with him again tomorrow and probably be asking for a refund. I guess its all in the :fine print:

I need to know this to, :popcorn: I bet there answer will probably be to covert to external. :laughin:

I know there has got to be some useful information in that link, but i am not knowledgeable enough to interpret all of that technical data. :help: Yes, novak makes an adapter to go from the AX-15 to a SBC and just about every other engine/transmission combination on earth as well.

indeed ;) , actually, the stroker is giving me the same concerns as well. I would say that if you had a decient HD 2 row radiator, ZJ HD clutch fan and effective hood vents, cooling would probably be a non issue even for a V8

first and easiest step is to pull and check all fuses, from there check all bulbs, pull them, clean the sockets thoroughly and replace as neccassary. But to be honest your number one priority should be to either find another engine or fix the one you have. Welcome to the group :wavey:

don't you know it. Either way, if was to go with a v8 i'm pretty sure i could find something better. One of you is probably already thinking, why did you not do a V8 in the first place. How many times have you heard about people swapping a v8 into their jeep? I know i can't count that high. I like the uniqueness of the stroker and the fact when/if its done it will be A. a total sleeper and B. be as easy to drop in as a stock 4.0

ZJs never ran the AX-15?

Well from what you very first said it sounds like the timing is out.

Your problem sounds nearly identical to mine, "Backfiring and rough idle" Physically put your hands on the dipstick tube and run your hand down its lenth, about half way down a support leg will be attatched to it. This leg is bolted to the block a few inches back via a stud in the block. On this stud there will be a nut and several wires. It is absolutely critical that these wires are super clean and have super good contact. They ground a multitude of crucial engine control systems.

What ever came of your original thread?

Never heard an answer to this.

thats not a bad idea, find one mated to an AX-15, snag the harness, accessories, and what not. The only thing, i think, that would have to be modded would be the engine mounts. And a bigger rad, not sure about fire wall clearance though. But did you choose a ZJ 318 specifically because it would bolt to the existing transmission? Cause there are a lot of other powerplants out there, i even did a little research on doing an LS1 swap. Just for sh*ts and giggles.

Where in sam hill did you find all of those MTs?

LIES!! (soap box time) :soap box: In my particular area, there are a bunch of salvage yards, 8+. But they should be prosecuted for highway robbery, $50 for a broken mirror, $75 for a rusty gas tank, $250 for a dented, scratched, paint faded bed. I absolutely HATE the salvage yards around here, bunch of non english speaking crooks, the whole lot of em. There isnt an emoticon that can effectively convey my feelings towards them. On a brighter note however, I have, after many years, finally found the one rose among the thorns. Express Pull and Save, its a bit of a hop, skip and a jump from me but well worth it. 100% customer oriented, extremely well run, and prices so low i nearly blacked out when i first called them. Mean while back on the farm, I still have the transmission and t-case all together, acctually still mated they are just sitting in the barn. Its just the engine bay that has been gutted (still have all that too) and motor tore completely down. If things go south with the stroker i was hoping to find a 4.0 for cheap, say 500? that i could just drop in and go. If the stroker doesnt work out. . . $500 for a used 4.0 $700 for lift $600 for tires = 2100 - 1800 = $300 left over I dropped off my "new" crankshaft and some alternative connecting rods just a few hours ago. Wensday will be the soonest that we can sit down and really figure this out, itemized expense list start to finish, which connecting rods do i want to use, and so on and so forth.

And there in lies (lays?) the problem, its not running. I gutted the truck, powertrain wise, because there was a mix up on whether the donor engine i bought was the same as mine. So instead of having a perfectly operational comanche while the engine was being built, i tore mine down to brass tacks and there it sits. I have been thinking exactly what you guys are more and more. My plan for tomorrow is to go and talk with my machinist and have him give me a itemized list of what everything is going to cost me. From the moment he lays his hands on it to the moment its at home sitting on an engine stand. If he says he won't be able to give me such a list for another week or two, OR the money left over from the build is to little to cover the other expenses i will need to take care of i will be calling it quits on the stroker, at least for now. It feels like an eternity since i last got to drive my MJ.

if i understood, your reading 15 psi at the rail? if thats right, your WAY off what its supposed to be.